cackshifter

The rears I think have a shorter 28mm piston so you can't use something suitable for the fronts. I have just bought 2 sets of stainless ones off link on ebay. Apart from Zeus and Rakeway I don't know who else makes or sells stainless. These seemed fine, and the retaining rings seemed to fit quite well. 110 pistons are 46mm - at least mine were (1997) Regards Nigel

I'd be tempted to get it balanced, as it is likely to be revved, and it definitely makes for a smoother engine; also maybe a lighter or lightened flywheel if possible (no more powere but more responsive)? Nigel

Careful smacking the calipers; it does make you feel better, true, but I removed some a bit back, the vented front kind, and had to use percussive encouragement. The result was I cracked the little spacer between the 2 caliper halves. As it happend it didn't matter as I was replacing anyway, but it could be annoying if you aren't. Nigel

Make sure you clamp on a rear wheel if it's a 4 wheeled trailer - they love to just hitch on the back of a wagon to an undersize ball, and the front wheels are lifted off the ground. The Milenco wheel clamps look very good (some concrete filled to defeat grinders).We had a hitchlock (Bulldog) attacked recently on a horse trailer. They bent it but it hung on in there and the trailer stayed. They hadn't started on the wheel clamp. I plan also to fit a non-standard electrics socket ( 7 pin ones dangling in the wet are asking for electric problems) and take an adapter cable.Again if being nicked at night and there are no electrics working on the trailer, more chance of being pulled. Nigel

You may be able to dribble some plusgas into the end of the hole that the bolts screw into, so that it soaks in from the other end. If you don't fancy heating and you know there's no loctite on the bolt, there are freezer sprays - use one to shrink the bolt. BTW you can buy breaker bar repair kits if the big bit is Ok, but I'm not sure if they make them for 1/4" - it would be a special ironmongers that stocked that. Nigel

If the drive shaft's loose it can't be much holding the flange on - maybe rust or 'newness'. I'd take off the circlip and keep doing what you are doing - if it's moving a little it'll very likely move a bit more next time etc. Nigel

It's been suggested to me the whine I have in my xfr box is due to it being fitted incorrectly; of the 5 bolts holding it on there is a 10mm one facing backwards on the offside. Allegedly, if you fit the wrong bolt in here it can push in far enough to rub the laygear. Proof is to withdraw the bolt and see if the end is rubbed away - if so, grind a little bit off. It's on my todo list for this weekend. Nigel

If you're converting a 109, wouldn't you just go with the 110 type of piping - in other words no valve? Bear in mind that a 110 has 46mm pistons at the rear, rather than the 41 on a discovery. Not sure how big a discovery front pistons are. There's quite a bit more weight on the back I think. My 110 has 4x46mm on the front, 2 x 46mm on the rear, no valve. The 90 has 4x46mm on the front, 2 x 41mm on the rear and the valve. Both 300tdi. The 90 rears are I think common with the discovery. Nigel

That's the 110 setup. The 90 also has a pressure reducing valve which one of the fronts and the rears go through. (Talking 300tdi now) Nigel

Regarding the sleeving, I too quite fancied getting it done (and if I find somewhere local I'm not a million miles from Aragorn) but I'm slightly concerned about just pressing a steel sleeve in; aluminium expands more than steel so it would tend to loosen when hot, so maybe would have to be shrunk into place, or pinned somehow to be sure it wouldn't loosen. Any thoughts? Nigel

If you are planning on putting something more than a standard 4.6 in front of it (did I hear you say 5.2?) you might need an upgrade anyway. Ashcrofts site has a good explanation of the options. Having said that, they do seem to get a bit of dirt and rust on the outside through use. Nigel

That's a good idea.

Always fancied one from a Silver Sahdow; aluminium so not too heavy, SU carbs, and built to certain standard. Nigel

Just curious. I did the same conversion a while back; I bottled out of having loose springs on the front and got shock absorbers to go up the middle of the springs. Having thought about it (assuming you fit retainers) I can't see you'd have a problem . Nigel

Perei and Rubbolite make 95mm NAS type ones - but be prepared for serious wallet bashing if you decide to go with them. They seem to be sold through truck spares places.Stafford Vehicle Components See 'Ultrabright LEDs' Nigel

Are you changing shock absorbers too? Nigel

Paddocks had a special on wolf rims with new Michelin 7.50 x 16 FWIW.. link

I have this tyre/xfr box combination in my 110 but the engine is a mildly tweeked 300tdi; it feels about the same as a standard 90 to start with, but then doesn't run out of puff so much,and it feels like it's even possible to exceed the speed limit on motorways. Only time it feels a teeny bit wrong is towing; but that's what you have low for. Mightn't be so good with a std engine. Nigel

I'd do the egr first then the cat and see how you go at each. I second what doda said, well worth taking off the inlet manifold (very easy only 4 quite accessible bolts), and while you can, clear as much cack as you possibly can out of the ports in the cylinder head as well as the manifold, with something like carb cleaner. Get a new hose for the intercooler/manifold connection, as the old one will be full of muck, check the others aren't collapsing inside, and block the EGR vacuum ports etc. Definitely not needed for MOT. I think one thing that might help your mpg would be an injector service especially if they have a lot miles on and if you are getting black smoke. Losing the cat can make it a bit freer breathing but (even) noisier. Nigel

Just realised that's rubbish. If you are getting a quarter turn at the hub, it implies much more movement at the flange, so that would be huge. It's got to be in the axle or hub. Nigel

I think they'd have to use one park switch, as they are unlikely to agree on that it's true - so it would be a master/slave or MP/dominatrix kind of relationship. If each motor drove one wiper there would have to be something to ensure both wipers didn't try to occupy the same bit of time/space continuum. I don't think you could just set them off apart and hope they ran at the same speed. Nigel

Digressing a little, but I must admit I have wondered whether it would be possible to have another motor at 'the other end of the line' ie in the LHD position. But I think that might be similar to 2 cats in a bag. Ok for a few seconds till they realise the other is there.... Nigel

That does sound a lot. Are you positive when you get that quarter turn movement your diff flange is not moving at all - a little bit there can be magnified (by the FD ratio in fact, and plus all the play). If it is, maybe your propshaft could bear a look in the u/j areas. (I know you replaced it but you never know) Nigel

I see there is a 13 core trailer cable now available with several thicker cores , presumably for things like fridges - might be a cost effective alternative to a chassis loom. Nigel

I'd recommednd a bit of heatshrink sleeve over the ends of the braided pipe to make it secure and stop it fraying - I used 7mm from Maplin and warmed it a bit with a warm air gun, but as the engine has got warmer it seems to have shrunk it on a little more. Nigel