JohnnoK
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Everything posted by JohnnoK
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Isn't that ring gear on wrong way around? Should the tapered side of the teeth not face the starter motor?
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From the good folks at Google... The most commonly used date format in Japan is "year month day (weekday)", with the Japanese characters meaning "year", "month" and "day" inserted after the numerals. Example: 2008ๅนด12ๆ31ๆฅ (ๆฐด) for "Wednesday 31 December 2008".
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Can you not strip it back far enough to get a length of scaffold pipe with a suitable bracket made up for the front of the chassis rail to persuade it to regain its initial form? In other words, bend it straight...๐
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A mate has a GM 6.2 V8 diesel on an R380 in his Defender and it is amazingly torquey. It pulls off at idle in 3rd gear and will do 110km/h all day long if you want to.
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Volvo D5 turbos use the same core as the Td5, but is VNT, and according to something I read once are easy to modify to fit a Td5 using the wastegate actuator to drive the mechanism. There's enough Volvos around the breakers to try that option relatively cheaper, aren't there?
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I get that the bearing is there, but I was saying that you might be able to use the rear end of the shaft to DRIVE the pump to supply that (and the other bearings if desired) with suitable modifications to the rear cover to house the pump and the shaft to drive the pump.
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What of the pump in the R380 running off the PTO flange? It'd need a fair bit of planning and work to fit, but it's small enough and volumetrically up to task.
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All the best to you and yours! Hope it was a good one.
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https://www.dieselmeken.se/ They should restore your original power and add more if you want to....
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The EBay Christ I fancy that 4x4 + its cheap thread
JohnnoK replied to Hybrid_From_Hell's topic in International Forum
I'd seriously consider donating an organ for one of them.... -
Nowt wrong with that, sir! Top work, as always.
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Not trying to be a nag, but those bolts are a bit short. The nylock isn't locked to anything, so they could rattle loose in time.
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Do a search for Discovery II RAVE manual. It may well be listed in the downloads section here or in the Disco section as well.
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Thanks Bowie69 and PaulMc!
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Yup, mine failed about a year after I got the car, steam hose went in between head and block when it was rebuilt.
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No, Sir! Only new ones, I don't reuse those fellows at all.
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I need help to find a thread about a conversion done to a Pug van to turn it into a camper for a guy who is in the movie industry, please. He uses/used it when he was on site and had left it looking like a white van. Sorry for the vagueness of the description, but that's all I have and the search function has laughed me off with that poor offering...
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Cheap'ish 609 axle builds
JohnnoK replied to landy_andy's topic in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
As is almost everything else automotive, mon ami....๐ -
When I did my Td5 head, I just annealed them by heating cherry red and quenching then fitted them cold.
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It may also help if there any minor defects on the seal face or injector flange as well.
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Do you think it would help to anneal the copper seals first?
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Mmmmm, turn the diffs 90 degrees and fit motor direct to input pinion?...... That could work.
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I've not seen a follow up on the Landy. I hear you on the energy losses, but the motor can go directly onto the TC input which minimises losses. Let's face it, if you want to EV a Landy, efficiency can't be high up on your list, can it?๐ค
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That should work initially, but the problem comes in as the engine's mileage grows and natural wear occurs the crankcase pressure increases and the venting follows the path of least resistance, so sooner or later it's going to become more than the PCV can handle and then it will come up the oil flow into the sump and negate the vent's effectivity.
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https://www.popularmechanics.co.za/wheels/sa-man-converts-his-jeep-to-electric-power/ This is a good few years old now, so with the advances in technology it shouldn't be too difficult to do a Landy EV conversion.
