JohnnoK

Whilst I am not familiar with the Honda in question, from a Td5 owner's point of view, the engine will start and run quite fine with incorrectly coded injectors, the coding is as you say, for fine tuning. When I replaced my head, I discovered the injectors fitted were not even listed in the ECU, let alone in order, and it ran fine, blown head gasket notwithstanding...

Sorry to hear that, Eightpot. I'll have a grumble about the heat on your behalf.

You should still be OK to get in, but depending when you plan to leave, you may be in lockdown again. I predict SA will be back to a hard lockdown by mid Jan-early Feb at the very latest.

I have heard different opinions on this. One says that if the old bolts are the same length as a new one, then they are still in spec and can be reused, and another says always replace.

I use Castrol BOT402, which is the equivalent for the MTF94. MIDAS, MASTERPARTS etc should all sell it. You can also go with the RAVENOL MTF-1 75W85, which is listed as a BOT402 equivalent. Call Freddie Stafford at Ravenol (021 447 3142), he will set you right, and they deliver anywhere in SA. It's also available in Europe, being a German product.

Transfer case and diff oil can be identified by the smell, most times. If your car has a cooler fitted, check the lines for chafing, mine chafed through and I lost the transmission due to no oil. Your best approach would be to clean everything underneath, service the levels and drive it for a few days to let it drip again, so you can follow it easier on the clean parts.

What Maverik said, and or the gearbox mounts, just jack the transfer case slightly and you will see if they are good or not.

Do you have a photo of that please? I am curious to see the look of it. My D2 has started to sag and my P38's liner was removed by the PO so I have those to look forward to.

Why not just get a relocation kit?

Will he ship to South Africa? I need to refresh the R380 I just bought to replace the failed one in my Disco.

Being as they are all headers or fuses, I'd say you are bang-on the money with that explanation. The header number will ID the rest of the circuits on that and the fuse box legend should list the relevant ones for those circuits.

Angola is oilfield country. Plenty of skilled welders around there, just got to find them.

I raised the vehicle on a ramp in front and axle stands at the back and with my suspension pumped up, I was able to sit under the vehicle with the handbrake drum removed. I lowered the rear until I could comfortably sit and see the top bolt heads to loosen them. The rear propshaft flange was visible below the chassis rails. RAVE does say to remove the top of the fan cowl for fan touching. I also don't use a jack, but remove the centre console and use 2 small A frames and my block and tackle to lift and lower boxes. On the P38, I remove the shifter and on my Disco I removed the whole panel that covers the tunnel. The P38 box is very front heavy and still needs a jack to hold the wieght, the R380 and LT230 hang perfectly level. I prefer this as the box can't easily fall OFF a chain from above, but having had a gearbox slip off a jack before, the extra schlepp is my safety margin for working alone. I am also not working on a hard surface, so a wheeled jack is out of the question for me.

I don't know if it will work on beer cans, but I often open cans by lightly grinding the rolled over lip of the lid flange. The top comes off cleanly and all it needs is a light run over to de burr the edges. The bottoms will be a different story...

I welded a shortened 6 point socket to a piece of flat bar and used that. Also bent up a "hook" tool that lies on the flat of the bellhousing at the bottom and the hook part engages the ring gear to loosen, and when flipped to the other side, tighten the bolts. Use Locktite when refitting.

I have done a few head gaskets on Td5 engines and never had an injector issue. What you DO NEED to do is ensure you refit them as they were removed to retain the ECU coding for the firing profile, or recode with a Nanocom afterwards. I'd anneal the copper washers before fitting, too.

Can any of the learned members point me in the direction of a Repair and Overhaul Manual for the ZF 4HP22/24 gearboxes, please?

Wow! You have a serious challenge ahead of you. Kudos for taking it on.

They don't seem to care. A colleague is French but lives in Spain, and he says they are really messed up with motorcycle MOT/CT checks. NO modifications of ANY shape or type are allowed, not even aftermarket EU approved exhausts.

Cheers, it was certainly a "DUH!!" moment when I realised the mistake....😁

As Captain Mainwaring of Dad's Army would say.... "Stupid boy!"... I had my bolt in the "extra" hole below the starter bulge in the bellhousing. Small wonder it wasn't lining up properly, and it never would have, too. The bolt is now in the right position and progress can proceed accordingly...

I don't think so, it has a monster torque converter in it that almost fills the bellhousing. I am all showered up and on my first beer, so will crawl under the old 131TCH tomorrow and check while I place the kindling in position.

Right, so I went out and bought a transmission to fit to the Rangie.... Cue the installation of it today and..... the bellhousing is different to my GEMS engine one...🤬🤬 My understanding of the engines is that they are all the same from a bolt holes and layout point of view, so what am I missing? The only difference between the GEMS and Bosch engines is the intake, ECU, CPS and some ancillaries, but the blocks should all be identical, right?? Yet, my bellhousing has the bolt below the starter motor almost 3/4" out of the corresponding hole in the block. The burning question now becomes.... is the gearbox also somehow different or can I just swap bellhousings over? Can it be that simple?

No other gears, not in high range or low range, NOTHING at all!

So, I finished it up yesterday, new front seal, filter and sump gasket, 11 liters of Ravenol Dex III and started her up. Not happy on 2 year old fuel, but got the old bag to idle eventually, and shifted through the gears a few times to get the oil nicely into the gubbins and the torque converter. Then, set off for a drive around the block to get some fresh fuel and see what else has decided to quit on me since I parked her..... Such a great feeling driving the Rangie, big smile on the dial until I got back to the house, around 5km of smiles...... pulled up at the gate to allow it to open, and, back to the top of the thread..... NO DRIVE AGAIN!!!🤬 Feckitall, bollox and similar un-nice words of a blue tinge.