Tonk

you dont state whether you want ali or mild steel? aalco in southampton do ali 2000*1000 2500*1250 3000*1500

i wouldn't say common to crack heads, more common for pistons to crack. they're more renowned for breathing heavy, check breather for oil mist

i understand what u're tryin to achieve. i dont know how easy it would be but i'm guessing it would be easy enough to make fit, however i dont know. i just fitted early 90 lift up handle doors to my series.

i think they'd be tricky to get them out and still be usable.

AFAIK the 2.5 head gasket is the better one to use and can be used on the 2.25 anyway

outriggers and crossmembers are cheap parts to buy and if you can weld easy enough to change, depends if the rest of your chassis is worth repairing or not.

check that the n/s swivel hasn't been bolted on one hole out which will rotate it. the person who done this work should be shot...................twice.

i'd suggest that your mounting feet have been welded on in the wrong place on your axle, to rotate the axle cut off the mounting feet and weld them on further round the axle tube. post a picture up of clearance issues and of diff pinion angles and we'll have a better idea on how to advise.

i thought they were always close to runnin on the top. i'd be interested in seeing a pic of your setup to see the angle you have the axle at.

i will be along, i'm going to follow you Nige so i dont have to walk far all day

just because its got mot doesn't necessarily mean its safe, the mot man doesn't always notice everything.

does it go over or under the springs? you say it does both? is it breaking because it is hitting something? springs? or just through poor welding? pics would be good

the 60/40 (actually 62/38) is off a 90, AFAIK 110's were 50/50. i run a 60/40 on my series with no problems, miss out the shuttle valve and you still need to T piece the front brakes.

i changed to lt77 before my series box gave up, but i had a reputation of blowing series boxes before i put the tdi in anyway i never balance my props and dont have a problem. offroad only and i wouldn't worry about it

you'd have to make both props if you use the lt77 and lt230. series box probably wouldn't last too long behind a tdi. use tdi clutch and cover plate with lt77 obviously, but a series 3 friction plate if using a series box, same diameter for both clutches but different splines.

NAD actually

part number JC145? from craddocks

there should be a fair amount of resistance when pushed. u never answered the question of slave fitted the right way up?

that aint good, he wasn't always right, but he had vision.

you say you have bled the clutch, does it feel right or is it too easy to depress? have you fitted the clutch slave cylinder the right way up? should be bleed nipple upwards else it wont bleed properly.

i'd guess they've warped a bit cos of the galvanising, out with tool number one......

Michele, do i take it you cant get the cappings to sit over properly? if i was going to all that trouble i would've straightened that rear wing out too

i do second jon's comments. but i will tell you that fitting a 110 long pad caliper in there is extremely close and needs modifying a fair bit. the wilwood caliper will fit with no modifications and is plenty upto the job of stopping a landrover. machining of the discs and back of the hubs is doable on a lathe, saying that it has to be spot on else you will end up with disc run out which will pulse through the pedal when you brake. caliper mounting plates can be made using mill or laser cutter, whichever you have to hand

not casting dispersions, but are you sure your mate knows what he's doing? rings go a certain way up too

i shown 2 different conversions, one uses wilwood calipers, the other is 110 long pad calipers. both use the same disc but different mounting brackets. caliper mounting brackets are made from 10mm thick steel, they need drilling and tapping for attaching the caliper, so thicker is better. disc used was a toyota one cos it has less offset than landrover discs.