Tonk

i wouldn't bother reaming.

if you search this forum theres a lot of info on this subject. theres lots of ways of getting discs onto a series.

do you need to fit them to cover up wide tyres sticking out the bodywork? would look a bit silly with tyres too inset from arches imo. def arches on my series

just a wild shot, but you have got both ends of the axle in the air? ie you haven't still got the wheel touching the floor on the other side? that would make it interesting to fit a spring.

you should do anyway, then retighten when weight of truck is back on it when on the ground, so you dont strain your bush.

you shouldn't need brute force (or ignorance) to fit springs. jack vehicle up and support by chassis (whichever end you are doing, front or back). keep axle off of springs whilst locating the spring into the mount of the chassis, then raise other end of spring upto the shackle end, make sure all bolts are loose, including the shackle to chassis bolts. both ends of the spring should go into respective mounts easily. then bolt on your axle. stick the vehicle back on the ground before fully tightening the bush bolts.

whats the diameter of the fan? when i used to run that engine i used to just use the fixed fan

is there a gap between the points? (set correctly) do they spark when pulled apart? (ignition on)

tube from a track rod any good?

freezing your bush helps as does warming your hole slightly and dont forget the lube!

9/16 bolt goes through a series bush, so m12 would be fine i've used a universal bush remover/installer to put them in before.

Dan, you'll never get the bushes out so they're are in a reusable state. just splash out for poly's straight off, easy to fit and remove as u wish.

just tow start it in a high gear and not worry about using the clutch. use a long rope and get ready to knock it out of gear if it runs, or turn it off, or hit the anchors, or abandon ship

no need to make a top column bracket on a series 2a, it has a far beefier one than a series 3 and bolts round the def column perfectly.

Michele, come and buy mine, u know u want it

the ford v6 sits very nicely in a series engine bay. depending which gearbox you have fitted, it wont have syncro on 1st and 2nd gears. are you double de clutching?

Mangel make a 8 spoke which 15*10" rim with about 6.5" back spacing

bang 20 psi up its actuator hole and see if it moves and doesn't leak

what orange squares?

or look through here

i made mine from 5mm sheet, internal stiffeners and cradle at the same time

personally i think procomps are good for the money here you'll need better shocks than standard with paras fitted due to they move better than multi leafs also these are longer cos paras have longer movement.

i think its all luck of the draw. i reckon mine was the original one so would have been in there for 40 years, after cutting the inside of the crossmember it still took lots of heat, penetrating oil and a jack underneath it and a big hammer to get it to shift.

i used same method as jon, i'm not so patient though and got mr angle grinder out after about half an hour

any 4 pot defender lt77 will do the job. you'll have to chop about your mounts to fit it. if you stay with series diffs then work out which lt230 (transfer box) you need to run to get your gearings right. i suspect disco 1.22 or some rangies 1.001 will be correct (depending on tyre sizes). the later the lt77 the stronger it will be, larger bearings/gears etc.