Tonk
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Everything posted by Tonk
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keep going at it with hammer and screwdriver, get all the tin bits out til you're back to the outer casting of the diff housing.
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theres all sorts of problems, the steering arm can foul the leaf spring, also the track arm would have to run under the diff as per defender, late series have room for this in the diff casing, earlier series diffs dont.
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dont be worried if your new seal doesn't look the same as your old one, aslong as the diameters are corrcet then it will seal, aslong as your drive flange hasn't got a wear groove on it. older seals were made from metal and leather, newer ones are all rubbery
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what will you use for halfshfts? defenders ones are about 2" longer than series ones
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i do run a 90 pedal box, servo and master. the pedal arm is longer than series by about 1/2 inch
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another conversion i made up using wilwood calipers
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this is my caliper plate i used 110 long pad calipers
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mine doesn't. i have a 4 bolt rangie box in mine, defender column as fridge's. i modded my front xmember rather than chop it out and move it. easy conversion really.
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this is a pic of breathers on a series transmission when i used to run it, all fittings are 1/8 bsp to 6mm nylon tubing
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a prop is only about a 3mm wall, it will bend, especially if u lengthen the drum
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i always have a chemical clean done to all parts also, just removes all the grime/gunge build ups....
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i've had heads skimmed at Banda, they we ok, no idea on more precise work though. boring and polishing i had done in a firm up north (guildford way ) cant remember their name at mo. i used to use pompey rebore but not sure if they're there anymore. pistons and engine parts i bought all genuine from turners.
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can u post up a pic of the engine?
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i used to do mine this method, although i used to rub it down first, on trees excluding bodywork expense i done this finish for about 30 quid, this was sprayed
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isn't it better they get your car keys this way than having to break into your house when you're asleep? i'd prefer my car to go missing than have a brick round my head when i'm asleep. sayin that they'd get a shock if they broke in....... i've left my keys in the ignition of my van all night before, blasted thing was still there in the morning
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or connect the compressor to it and see if u can get it to glow........ or butane inject it, errrrrrr maybe not
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theres some bolts (3?) which hold the distribution pump, slacken these off and rotate, i cant remember which way is advance or retard though.
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it will fit onto a series box but the box's life will be shortened. if you want to use the lt77 then fit a defender lt77, the shifters are in a better place. exhaust would have to be made from scratch, including the downpipe. also the turbo outlet is very close to the chassis rail, but it all will fit. also you'll need to make up custom propshafts.
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rather than drill holes in the bottom, fit air screws on the doors so u can regulate the air flow by screwing them up, a butterfly valve in the flu and then u can shut it down and it will burn all night
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i fitted mine where the dot is on the exhaust manifold, take the turbo off and u'll see the probe will sit in the flow of all the cylinders, just drilled and tapped mine 1/4 npt and screwed it in.
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late series had a castlated round nut, it shouldn't be done up mega tight, just drift it to undo
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when's it on?
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the spacer ring which is screwed to the outside of the hub, i take it thats there to replace the thickness of the drum that used to be there? if so it needs to be 216mm diameter so that the wheel bolts flat on it!
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is your trackrod done up in the steering arm? if so it doesn't stick through enough to get the split pin in, which is both a mot failure and dangerous imo.
