zoltan

I'm selling my Snap On wonder gun in a few days (450lbft Lithium battery blah blah) and getting the equivalent Makita 1/2 drive gun. OK the Makita doesn't have quite so many torques but at £120 less battery I can get a few of those for the nearly £600 I paid for the Snap On gun and frankly the Snap ON gun, if it goes wrong and goes off to Snap ON for repair, will not come back with as many torques as it says on the packet.

Shame they don't also see the link between flytipping of all sorts and banning the tips from taking trade waste. I know traders/builders/pikeys will take advantage but on balance, the cost of clearing up flytipping must outweigh the trader problems

Looks like no-one will be happy with what the Council have done here. The report is from a source with an obvious bias so bear with it http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68011

Shame we haven't been able to have the same 25 year rolling scheme in place with road tax isn't?

Keep a watching eye on Apex Auctions. There are lots of auctions with boxes of tooling and it's worth putting a few bids on. You never know when you'll strike lucky. A Vickers Hardness tester for £10!

Once corrosion gets in under powder it is an unseen problem

Not often it has to be said

Thanks, I'll sleep easy on that

The Kent Off Road club are a very friendly bunch, http://thekentoffroadclub.proboards.com/

Post your Land Rover in the snow pictures here. I haven't got any as there is no snow here

^^^what he said^^^ Very straightforward. What type of system have you been looking at?

Use a long screwdriver as a diy stethoscope, you should be able to narrow it down easily with that

Yes fair enough, a bit of an apples and pairs comparison. I was trying to show the impact it's removal would have on the engine which you couldn't possibly gauge in road driving as you'd never replicate the driving conditions and achieve measurement repeatability that you can on a dyno. I'll go and sit back in the corner

Not wishing to start a fight but I beg to differ on this point. I know it is a different engine but we measured (before and after) a 20 bhp loss running a standard A series Mini water pump and 11 blade plastic fan over an electric water pump on a 1460cc Mini racing engine. This was measured before and after on an engine dyno which has excellent repeatability. That is a considerable loss. Churning a big fan on the front of a diesel lump or V8 will similarly use power which requires an expenditure of fuel Anyone on Facebook, the test results are here http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151093867976734&set=a.408751951733.176640.293351166733&type=1

Acid, Man

It is a simple rig to test for leaks. Pressure gauge graduated to 5000 psi (depending what test you want to perform) and a series of sized blocks to go between the pistons. We manufacture calipers so we're always testing the same range of items, nothing goes out without having been tested. Normally test calipers to 1500psi but I've mostly seen leaks in calipers at almost zero pressure since the seals energise when pressurised so that can mask problems. At very low pressures scored pistons and damaged seals generally show up

I don't know where you are Mike, but if you want the offer to come down to my workshop and test all the calipers on our pressure test rig, the offer is there. Based south of Ashford in Kent. You'll probably tell me you are 300 miles away! Look at it as £60 for four pairs of serviceable castings!

Tricky one. Trouble is 'off-road' covers everything from light light use to full on destructive type use so as a manufacturer how do you adequately cover your product? You can make a warranty on the product but you have no control on what customers will do to it and yet still expect you to be there offering replacement or repair after it has been well and truly mashed.

What current assumption do you think I need to make when calculating the resistor value? I suppose my problem is the current spike so should I set a current ceiling and use that value of resistor? Or do I use a variable resistor and use that to tinker? Is there a pitfalls with variable resistors that I'm not aware of. ( I'm out of my comfort zone here )

Shame if the wall met with an accident

@SORN The regulator probably needs to stay as it provides the possibility to achieve a two or three stage mode of battery charging. A generator would normally connect to a battery charger which will fulfil the control of the battery charging. That was what I was hoping to avoid by tinkering with the alternator through it's regulator circuit. My charger needs to work with the leisure battery bank so a float charge ability is important @Reckless, The bogging down does occur at wide open throttle. Basically I don't think in reality this engine is man enough for a 45amp output alternator but I'd hoped to control this output so that the engine could work within its measly power range. Since it needs to be quiet and fuel efficient to run whilst providing the float charge I didn't want a bigger engine both because of it's fuel consumption and for it's physical size The engine should have enough beans in theory at a steady state, if my maths are right, 30 amps at 14.2 volts is 426w or .42kw, at 45 amps =639w so my 0.75 kw engine should be able to drive the alternator

These little engines are used for water pumps and strimmers so no governor. I'd really like to avoid micro controllers and servos if at all possible. How would you go about slowing the regulator down? Presumably the internal circuits vary from alternator to alternator according to the way they've been configured for the end users or are these very simple old style regulators??

I wonder if the management system is able to effectively adjust for the different stochiometric ratio of a fuel that is predominantly alcohol. I'd go back and get an emissions test done with a tank of ordinary unleaded

I have one of the 8mm pipes just blanked off on my 110 and it has been like that for 5 years and counting. I ought to find out where the other one should go!

E85 being 85% ethanol?