Nonimouse

Cylinder and coolant system That dirt looks like casting sand

really lovely engine - very pricey

Pressure test?

https://www.cummins.com/engines/repower Very modern, but designed as a re-power

Excellent suggestion on the drop arm

All very pretty stuff - but most of it is simply bolt on bling unless you are looking at doing competition. The underbelly plates can be useful for sliding over stuff, but rarely for more than the few seconds before you belly out. There's a chap called Ben Hilton, he's with the Scottish 4x4 response. Ex Coldcream Guards, left his legs in Afghanistan (attention seeker). He's a very experienced responder and off road type. Have a chat with him. He's in Elgin. Sound bloke I would suggest that in a 130, you protect the steering components (don't use guards, use gwyn lewis replacement steering bars), rear prop into diff and diff pumpkin, front diff pumpkin and sill bars. That's everything covered for non competetive off tarmac driving and you could enter the vehicle in mudmaster. You don't mention tyres, but if you haven't already, grab some decent 255/85x16's. If it was me, I'd use Falken Wildpeake MT01's, simply because they are better than any tyre ive used before; most of the folk on here will suggest BFG's Then learn what the vehicle will do, in that set up. Military off tarmac driver training is somne of the worst in the world, simply becuause the ethos on the vehicle is wrong. Get some decent training. Not Land Rover Experience. Duncan Barbour used to do some good stuff - he may be able to help. Response Training is usually good, but limited - I don't know about Scotland, but I've trained well over 500 response members form around the UK, on intensive courses, to support their in house courses. There's a chap called Chris Putt - the Off Road Consultant on FB - sound bloke, covers Scotland. He's probably the best off road instructor in the UK (at the moment)

That would be the crate engine cummins then. I read your post and was wondering how an LT77 would stand a 5.9!

Ignition live feed to the switch feed 400amp may not be enough - nost winches will run to 450, even 500amps before stall

Likewise. Contracts have got silly money. I'm the same with WP8 - if it's not in my pocket, I really miss it. Went to a funeral yesterday - obviously left the phone in the car - felt weird. I habitually wear work trousers, with loads of pockets and pouches; the RHS nail pouch always has the phone in

How well you know me

Also look for Vauxhall Corsa and Skoda Yeti steering column conversions - the former is a favourite in 101's in foreign parts

A couple of points: Make sure you use all six available mounting points for the bumper and, as it has to be above the chassis, look at a possible 7 and 8 mounting points added to run down the line of the winch pull. The only annoying thing about the TDS is it's inability to fit between the rails... At most it will draw 475amps before stall. Whilst testing at Superwinch, we couldn't hit the 500amp on the 12k. We did however (unofficially) stall at a damn site more than 12k! Build a cage to protect you for that one big nasty - then add smaller, lighter tube as vehicle protection. If you are going to be precious of the vehicle in any way, don't take it. Buy a cheaper shell, throw all the bits on it, do the even and then take them off. You cannot be precious in competition. I'm envious of your chance to the Ladoga - it's still on my bucket list. The guys on here that have actually been are your lucky clover leaf. Listen to everything they say - even Fridge. There is no substitute for experience

You simply can't beat LR for random

This got me thinking. Why the thread difference? A TD radiators is full width, so is A NAD. The 300 tdi has different inlet and outlet pipes.... Then I rembered it's the 90/110/130 200 has the same thread as the TD, the Disco has a different thread - yet the rads are the same in all other ways. Why?

It's never simple.... Theres an adapter, on the RAVE, for the different threads on the oil cooler. Two actually. Ralph might know the numbers

That's very cheap

It was. I also have a load of 40litr blue tubs with screw on lids. Free

Not sure if this is the sameon a Defender, but a D1 has a snail cam arrangement on the clutch pedal hinge pin. If this gets worn it can effect the operation of the pedal, but not so much as you would notice on your foot. I spent months chasing a gear change 'grab' after fitting a new slave cylinder. I knew the clutch operation was fine, because I used a poroscope attached to a phone to monitor the operation within the bellhousing. I was just about to set fire to the vehicle, when I had an inspriation and went to look at the GWAC we have in the barn. As I say, not sure if this is the same set up on a 110/90/Defender as I've never looked

Ive got a standard B&B I think. Whatever Autoparts were selling at the time. I tow a lot. Generally up around the 3-3.5 tonne mark, usually on a 17' Bed triaxle Ifor. A lot of my towing involves low ration off tarmac work. There's seven years and 57k in this clutch. It just chatters away. I used to have the bigger capacity sump on my 110, I will fit one to the Disco one day. Excellent bit of kit. My LT77 is origional, 29 years and 128K on it. No leaks, but the occasional seep after a long hot journey. My LT230 is from a 1989 RRC, that was, for some odd reason fitted at the factory. As an early August 93MY , the disco has all sorts of oddities. I have full service on it and ALL the records. When I went to fit a standard handbrake cable, it didn't fit, so I checked the LT230 serial number. Odd. Again, it doesn't leak. Although I've changed the out put flanges a couple of times over the years - I do run Redline 75W90 fully synthetic oil in the T case

Stephen, without doubt you are a very decent chap

If you have a spare 150 or so quid lying around, find an Arrow Radiators or a Serc's and get it rebuilt

Riv nuts - hmmm. I'm never happy with Riv nuts unless they are in 3-4mm steel at the minimum. It's their unpleasant habbit of not undoing and just spinning around . Although I over maintain my vehicle and lavish Lanoguard on it every year, I just don't want that nasty twisting sensation... I might go with captive nuts, or I might go with a nice bit of 8mm by 12mm stainless bar I have, with threads cut into it I do like my new MoT tester - she's very pleasant and, so far, the only female MoT tester I ever met

Always buy brass/copper - but I haven'tgot a spare one at the moment, because I gave mine to someone in need

It's not a written off block. generally its a new set of cam bearings, an annoying amount of time and some blue locktite. It's relatively simple to check - remove the vacuum and feel in with your finger - you can feel if the cam bearing has moved forward or back - do the same with the lift pump and the breather plate behind the pump. Worth noting the cam doesn't move forward/back, the bearings do - so measuring endfloat doesn't do anything Worst case scenario it's an engine out and block down to the local engine specialist for a line bore - this is actually rarely needed Ask me how I know

That's what I just said and why the MoT lady is happy for me to make it removable - as long as it still retain it's relative structural ridgity - ie - fasten it down securely