Nonimouse

I'm thinking along similar lines. But no bike. However I will go light weight and to avoid IVA unpleasantness, I'll use an existing box trailer and work up from there

If you look at it and go through , in your head, everything minor that can go wrong, be a pita and should be part of the regualr maintenance programme. Replace nuts and bolts that look iffy, jubilee clips etc - and make a list of what you didn't change that you need to change as and when you have some readies

I Have a coupleof spare LT77#s if you are caught short. I also have an autobox for a 200tdi and all the associated fittings. Box needs a service and a new sump seal - just in case Meant to say, I've found a couple of X9 plastic end plates - if you want one

Some climate scientists - not most. In fact a small faction. Most are saying that sustainable energy is the easy way forward and it's cheap. Nuclear in all it's forms is expensive - it's big, big bucks, in a world with not a lot of bucks and a majority population who struggle to pay bills. Yes , lots of options - hugely expensive options; hence why so loved by government Gas consumption is going down, fast - sustainables are up - over 40% of UK electricity It's an 'electric car' situation - enough waffle can blind even the brightest minds

Back ups could just as easily and for far less spend by tidal, current, AD, micro hydro, refuse etc - so many options. The ONLY good thing about Nuclear and the main reason it is promoted so much, is the build is good for the economy. It simply isn't sustainable and it is far too expensive

Hose pipe in all the coolant orifices - if you do this when changing the P gasket - you avoid getting lots of crud in the water pump housing Don't use Diesel, use gunk or similar

Was that the retailer or Red directly?

In Europe, countries swap electricity. Spain grows the most solar electric and has a huge 'pipeline' over the Pyrenees to France, who then sell some of it to the Germans (who have lots of Dirty Electricity), which helps to reduce their carbon footprint. France has a very low production carbon foot print - mopst of their saleable electric is Nuclear. On a rural level France is the biggest user of localised AD units in the world - in some areas each village of more than 300 population has one. Nuclear has a low production footprint, but a massive initial carbon hole - Hinkley C will need fifty years to offset it's carbon hole - simply because of the build materials and machinery used on site. Nuclear is also people heavy - lots of people to run a nuclear powerstation and then at decomissioning time it's also very carbon heavy. Lots of information streams. Very, very few people read them all. Many take a view and only follow that, often to the point of detriment

But nuclear is th emost expensive way to generate electricity. I'd pay more to generate enegry sustainably - more wind, wave, tide, hydro, AD.

And I bet you were younger then. Mike is the wrong side of 50, has a dodgy back (body?) and is limited in time. A pre mix arrives. Mike and every mate who owns a wheel barrow are ready to shift 4- 5m3 of perfectly mixed and warranteed concrete. Everything is prepared, steels are down, shuttering place, vibro wand to hand. an hour later it's all done. No one has had to barrow more than a m3 (2.2tonnes) and all is good

Clean the engine Back flush the cooling system P gasket Ancilleries belt Core plugs See if you can find out where all that oil leaked from

Price up a short load of pre mix - although anything with cement in it is expensive these days

I run an aux battery for lights, charging etc, but not fridge, that's gas For shower, tent lighting and other power I have two seperate batterie. Both with charge controllers. One 27amp hour, for the toilet lighting and shower. One 7amp hour for the tent lighting and children's entertainment systems. Both batteries run small solar panels, that match the trickle charge rate for the individual battery. When I fianlly move over to a compressor fridge, I have a similar set up ready

Metal is most likely to be cheaper at the moment. 12mm shuttering play is £40 a sheet! If you need steel trusses I might be able to help - but it will involve a journey to north of me. I'd also drop James a text, as he often knows of barn roofing.. Also DM Angus Norrish - he's a useful source of stuff

He doesn't do winches anymore. So no

Water creeps - so can be coming in almost enywhere. I use gutter sealant (the stuff that doesn't go off) on every seam, join and body gasket - it almost works

On a more positive note. The winches and winch mounts will be made in Somerset. The latter being made very close to my house

Don't assume. It's a Warn, cheap parts, made cheaply and assembled cheaply. The motor is actually very simple - although depending an age it could be one of about 4 types. The only unpleasant bit is holding the brushes back to allow the contact face to slip back in - I use very thin, small zip ties. Have a look at these videos

That's a bus lane camera and they are carp. AMPR is somewhat better

One of the very few decent winches Warn made/make Firstly check all the electrical connections - especially HV - clean themrefir using electrolytic grease If the solenoids go back and forth, they work - but does one or more get hot under load? Then whip the motor off and strip it down - clean all the conductive faces - use electrolytic grease on the brushes - re-assemble (you'll need some freezer bag ties or thin zip ties) Whip the gearbox off and empty out the gear cluster - you'll probably find that your mechanic has over greased it or used the wrong grease. It only needs a thin smear of lithium grease or one shot - use an old 1/2" pain t brush and a very thin smear over the mating faces. I alwasy reassemble with the help of an oil can filled with 15w40 engine oil... There is an in drum brake that rarely causes issues, but may be siezed - it only comes out one way. the brake pades may need freeing up... Have fun

I'm badly allergic to latex and even to Nitrile after prolonged use. I do a lot of knapsack herbicide application and have done for the last 40 years, an over the years I've developed a sensitivity to Nitrile and have always been allregic to latex. So much so that the outer dermis on the back of my hands is almost as fragile as a long term steroid user. I use a barrier cream to help with the nitrile issues and have found Mamba nitrile gloves to be better than most, along with the purple medical nitrile gloves. For work on the vehicle and protect the skin on the back of my hands I use lightweight leather gloves or , for heavier jobs I use mechanix gloves (preferably the ones with the knuckle protectors I'm keen on the military spec gloves for when I'm doing chainsaw work - chainsaw gloves are not mandatory, unlike boots and leggings...

the police are massively understaffed - most crews have 7-10 out standing jobs on at any time, in most police. Busy areas more so. The simple rule that human life comes first, then major crime etc. What suprises me is why AMPR cameras aren't used more for obvious illegal stuff - like number plate sizes. Then noted on the vehicles record to give the MOT tester a heads up

The Pathway is meant to tbe the DVSA - but oddly enough they are massively understaffed (like every other government agency or organisation) due to spending cuts. Same old, same old

I tend to lean the other way. MoT testers should do what they are trained to do - inspect under a specific and generally inflexible testing regime, for saftey defects or excessive emmisons levels. Police should oversee the obeyance of the law - especially in obeyance of those crimes that can lead to injury or death DVSA - should pull anyone and everyone for the most minor to the most major of things so they can issue fines which essentially pay their wages

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/bull-bars/bull-bars This explains it much better than I can