SPendrey

Have you considered training to make your arms work faster? Or one of those little "ball/knob thingys" so you can rotate the wheel quicker?

That 'seller' is the one I bought my winch, fitted with 11mm 'Dyneema' rope over 8 years ago. Still in great shape and going strong. Just to be clear, my last sentence refers to my winch and rope, not the condition of the seller, who I don't know!

Just for your information, I did mine a couple of years back. The inner sills on both sides were OK, so I sort of welded the box section 'inside'. What I mean is, I cut the outer sill away bar the top centimetre or so, and reduced the height of the inner sill to about 5cm, then used those surfaces to weld to. At the rear wheel arches I didn't close off the box section, instead I inserted plastic caps. This way I can (and did) spray the inside with rust preventing stuff.

I reckon that's connector C284 - for cruise control ECU.

You can do it alone, I did. Just open driver's window, then you can reach in. You may need the arms of an ape to reach both the bonnet switch and the ignition, but I've got those!

I suspect you're trying to solve the impossible, but... I would start by replacing the rocker cover gasket, and the breather down-pipe. Mine split at the join with the rocker cover, and then so did the replacement, so I went to silicone hoses and they've held. You may also find that's diesel around the injectors, most likely from the fuel return pipes. They're quick and easy to replace too. I'd wait for someone who knows stuff to comment on the larger leak near the exhaust manifold?!

That looks nice, but sounds a bit poor.

I may be the only person that found this interesting... certainly my family (in the car with me) couldn't have cared less. But, it tickled me that on the motorway I saw a Range Rover towing a Freelander. FYI, in case there are Health and Safety people watching, we were sat in a stationary queue.

While I appreciate the topic is "handpump"... I used one of these instead.

The chap I bought my first Disco from had used a panel suspended (securely) between the alpine windows, so luggage could be up high with pets below.

That's a significant difference in diameter, and probably a difference that'll result in fouling of various body parts around the wheel arches unless there are modifications done (like stiffer springs, longer springs etc.). You also need to consider the offset of the wheels you have now and with the "new" tyres. Useful site here to help you understand the differences... https://www.willtheyfit.com/

Will look for a replacement regulator, at least so I can keep the alternator as a "spare", since I seem to keep lots of spares! (Don't we all?) I believe I'm looking for the piece outlined in blue?

You mean the terminations at the alternator? All seemed fine except for the middle one having some rubbery stuff on it - perhaps related to the regulator inside the cover being black and burnt looking?

This is a 1994/5 Disco 300Tdi... drove well between Swindon and Bristol airport last Friday, didn't move Saturday, Sunday morning it was very sluggish to start. Voltage (from 3rd party display in car) read 8.something volts while cranking, but it did start! Ignored it until last night (Monday), voltage across battery is reading 4.something volts. Popped in 'spare' (old) battery this morning, started up, and in-car display is showing 18V! Stopped, checked battery and it showed 12.2V. Thinking the alternator is faulty and overcharging, which would cause the first battery to fail? Didn't notice voltage display at time to see fault. However, when I was poking around today I felt the middle terminal (D+) on alternator was hot. Car hasn't run for more than 2 minutes, and that was 6 hours ago! Time for a new alternator?

Indeed, that's what the moisture on the bolt is! I figured the heat from drilling followed by the cooling action of the spray might help.

Yes, to all of the above. However, I had an hour spare this afternoon and started drilling. 2mm at first which took ages, then 4, then 6 etc. which didn't take long at all! Got to 9.5mm then hammered in a cold chisel/punch. Hit that with the big f'in hammer a few times and bingo!

Hello, In an attempt to sort my steering out (right lock is poor) I had to take my steering guard off. In the process, a bolt sheared... the big bolt shown front and centre in Les's picture here which is also the middle bolt in picture 2. My car is Disco, the pics are from a Defender I think? Anyway, you'll get what I mean! To be clear, the bolt-head is what sheared off. The remainder is well and truly stuck in there, have hit it with the biggest hammer I've got and it won't budge. Drilling it out would be a long and painful process I suspect, although I can reach reach. Any other quicker ideas? I will attempt to remove the whole bracket (picture 2) if the top bolt undoes with ease, perhaps that'll allow some movement? Regards, Scott

Abroad somewhere, no doubt.

I don't like it... not symmetrical. 😛

I always use those as the jacking point, just for long enough to get axle stands under the axle tubes. There isn't much room left, unless you use the diff itself, and expect a funny angled heavy car for a while.

Why would you need to use these? I get what they're for, but what scenario would require this amount of stiffening? Challenge truck maybe, but surely nothing else?

...so you can find good bits of metal to weld to?

Now all you need is a second mortgage to buy a set!

I can't! But that looks an awful lot like the 16" Freelander Triple Sport wheels of that era too.

Probably when he comes back?!