SPendrey

I've used these in the past... https://www.4x4tyres.co.uk/

Best thing you can do is try it as is with AT tyres on, but I wouldn't bother with steel wheels etc., just use the alloys you've got, or pick up a second hand set.

Just a note... the term "antifreeze" is used a lot in this thread, but antifreeze is not good for squirting over your car/paintwork! I guess most people mean they're using a suitable winter screenwash?

Best to start with a continuity tester, checking each device (CB, each gauge etc.) to the +ve feed and then also the -ve on each. Given a number of seemingly unrelated devices are affected, I'd suspect a bad earth/gnd/-ve (whatever name you prefer) somewhere.

When you open the boot door, the panel you need to access is to your right (behind the dickie seat if fitted). Inside there, you should find the plug, if the previous owner hasn't mucked about with it!

That seems crazy to me. I'm referring to a rack this like which bolts into the spare wheel studs (albeit, mine is a Disco 1)... https://www.britpart.com/all-parts/da4119 I know people have hang-ups about Britpart, but mine has been fine for years. If your ebike is first on the rack, all its weight is near the mounting point anyway... I can't see this being an issue.

Pretty hard to be conclusive, without knowing the weights of all bikes etc. etc. However, I'd hitch the ebike nearest the spare wheel, then your wife's, followed by your grandson's, i.e. heaviest to lightest. Unsure which bike rack you've got too, but the one I use (attached to the spare wheel mount bolts) has a hole for a padlock to drop through, plus holes for bike locks to slip through. Of course, if someone is determined, they'll get the bikes regardless! It is also a 4-bike carrier, so carrying an ebike (probably 70% heavier than a standard bike?) means I'd just carry one bike less.

I can report the replacement is in, and the noise is gone... but what I can't explain is why, having put the new pump in, the left hand wheel now rubs on the radius arm?! Nothing in the geometry was changed, could it simply be there's more "power" pushing the steering box??

I've been chasing a rattling noise, replaced the water pump because there was play in the pulley. Replaced the belt tensioner because it was weeping some sort of fluid (?). The timing cover is less than a year old, but there is a rattle within the pulley/bearing. However, the company I bought it from has gone bust, so no news there. The power steering pump does make a clicking noise when turned in the direction it would operate, but no noise the other way. Is this normal? The attached video (with rather poor sound I'm afraid) should illustrate the noise, but it is more of a clicking than can be made out. I'm thinking this is the next item for replacement? 2019-06-28 19.27.16.mp4

I often do this Mo.

That's interesting, I bought the Cellular Dynamic shocks (the orange ones) for my Disco almost 3 years ago, and they're still going fine. I didn't buy them because they were orange, I bought them because they got good reviews. I didn't use the Britpart bushes that came with them, I used Allmakes stock rubber ones.

I have one, but I'm sceptical about its use... the instructions suggest you should connect it to the battery terminals (not +ve and the engine block). But I would have thought that doing so would deplete the battery pack into the battery very quickly. I can confirm it has helped start my Disco from a low battery, but I doubt it would from a dead battery.

I buy mine here... https://www.smithandallan.com/products/transport-gear-and-transmission/3671-smith-and-allan-geartech-mtf-94/, but not in 20L quantities.

I was running a set of "Wolf HD wheels" (tubeless) on my Disco for the last 7 or 8 years, without realising they were Britpart. To be honest, they're absolutely fine! They happen to be spare now, sat in the garage awaiting a proper strip down and repaint. My only concern with them initially was they are thicker than standard wheels, so the wheel nuts only just grip far enough.

Actually, with a moments thought continuity is correct... there would be because the other end of the cable is attached to a pivot arm which is mounted on the transfer box etc. Worry over. 🙂

This evening the handbrake cable on my 1994/5 300Tdi Disco snapped... I'm not surprised because about three days ago it felt a little odd when I applied the handbrake, and has got progressively worse at holding the vehicle. Anyway, new cable is on its way, but while out there this evening I was curious to find out if there was electrical continuity between the strands of cable sticking up from the floor, and the handbrake lever itself (which is no longer attached to that cable). There was continuity. Should there be? I'm guessing no, as I assume the cable is isolated from the bits around it (like where is passes through from inside to out). Am I right, or should there be continuity?

I just fitted the Nightbreaker Laser bulbs to my Disco... remarkably whiter light than the previous bulbs (which were also Osram, but unsure which type).

Nothing of any practical use.

"My question is...should I carry on with the 10p engine, or put a 15p in?" If you only put a 10p engine in, it's not going to last. 15p seems much more like the price you should pay for a high value/quality item. 😀

Just to add a little balance to this - I have had what I consider great service from the AA! I suspect it comes down to the driver in some cases. I've had a wheel bearing failure where the driver tailgated me a couple of miles home (at slowish speed) so I could fix the issue myself. And more recently, the aux tensioner went on my 300TDi Disco; with no belt driving the coolant, power steering etc. the AA chap agreed to follow me home, again at slow speed, although only just over a mile. Finally, I failed to renew with them this year because the payment card had expired. When I realised and called them, they gave me 25% off! £80 per year is acceptable to me for recovery to any location of my choice.

So you used "14 to 16Nm"? I used 22Nm, which means I know what I'm doing this weekend, again!

OK, thanks all. Since I bought 3 timing cover gaskets, I might as well use the last one (yeah, that's right!) correcting the tension. Can I also suggest the Tech Archive article is updated? 🙂

I doubt there is a "correct" answer to this, as there are so many answers floating around the Internet, but here goes... Just did the timing belt on my (Disco) 300Tdi, and the tensioner was set to 22Nm as per the Tech Archive article here. Having done this, I noticed Rave suggests 14-16Nm using a type of torque wrench that I don't have (see pic), and I see @ 6mins 30secs on a video from Rimmer Bros their mechanic says 12Nm. Another video suggests 15Nm verbally, but reduces to 11Nm in the text/comments. Is there a consensus on what I should have done? That said, I'm probably not going to undo everything now!

Watching with interest! My Disco 1 seats are in OK condition, but it concerns me that my head is miles beyond any head restraint in the event of an accident (being 6'4" tall) . I'm hoping someone will come along and say "Volvo 850 seats are easy" because they are sooooo comfortable.

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