Jump to content

SPendrey

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Posts

    1,099
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by SPendrey

  1. Yes, I agree it is true too. I had issues sorting new insurance for a "learner" car for my son; we had our family car broken into last year which results in a "fault claim". It is my fault because nobody else's insurance can be used to claim. This impacts both my NCD, and shows as a fault on new insurance policies. Ho hum.
  2. What am I missing here? I've three fluorescent tubes in my garage, all 55W tubes. Replacing these with LEDs which are also rated to 55W saves me nothing, actually costs me the price of the LEDs themselves. So, where is the saving coming from? Does dropping from 55 to maybe 35W really save that much??
  3. Clearly my advice is after the horse has bolted... but I tend to work with three instances of data. The primary source is local disc, secondary is a NAS type device (in my case, an old networked PC), then thirdly a cloud-based backup. This way I can always access data anywhere, and I can be ~99% sure I've always got a valid backup somewhere. If you lose one, you've still got a primary and secondary to fall back on. The only challenge is data volume in "the cloud", it takes time to migrate there, and takes £'s to store there.
  4. I think the best description I can give is that the ride feels more stable, less 'crashy', and with a much smoother damping experience. Of course, when they went on new they were replacing failed/failing shocks, so they're bound to feel better. However, over time, the Bilstein still feel good, and speed bumps, pot holes, and ruts/dips when laning all are a simple "down, up, level". That's it, little rebound, little fuss. Very pleased with them. My only criticism is when fitting to anything more than standard thickness turrets (on the front) there really isn't much room left for bushes and thread for the top nut.
  5. I had too, though mine expired after about 5-6 years use. Switched to Bilstein +2 and they've been absolutely excellent, a much better ride in my opinion. Bought from MM4x4 as they seemed good value.
  6. That Tork stuff says "centre feed", yet the centre is a cardboard tube?! I assume you're supposed to pull that out first? I've always used them as a roll (where the middle is on a spindle of some kind).
  7. I use one of these... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353717376707?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338749392&toolid=20006&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1pgHwi2aZSb26m6gemL50ZA67&customid=GB_131090_353717376707.139652105680~1432683193865-g_CjwKCAjwqauVBhBGEiwAXOepkUjeSKydiQfSs43tOI0k5HgtObbeXOM4m8NeQW9ImagreiZys28cvRoCw4UQAvD_BwE I worried about it aerating the oil, but doesn't seem to do so. Helps to have a spare battery on the floor, rather than trailing wires up to the engine bay.
  8. Yes, do this! Super-simple device, but very effective. Just make sure it goes onto the rope before you put an eye on the end (if it is big). It is intended to stop the rope ever reaching the final turn, but I suspect it would also tighten the rope down onto the drum as it effectively forces the rope to pull against itself.
  9. Yes, I read somewhere she isn't licensed for a manual, and yet she seems to change gears (and the audio changes too) in the programme!
  10. I replaced the (very tired) gaskets on my 1994 Disco by purchasing some quite dense closed-cell foam material, about 1" thick, and then cutting to size. Yes, the exposed edges store water because the cells are open there (having been cut), but beyond that water does not penetrate.
  11. I get all my oils from Smith and Allan... good prices, and not too outrageous shipping charges. Can't honestly say they're better or worse than any other, because I stick to the 6 month service cycle (about 1500 miles in my case), so they never really get old and worn out!
  12. There are plenty of people who've been using Terrafirma without issues. I noticed on Facebook post the company remind people that the washers retaining the top ring/bushes must be convex side inwards, flat side outwards, to allow the shock and bush to move slightly. They attributed a failure just like yours to "incorrect fitting". https://www.facebook.com/Terrafirma4x4/posts/terrafirma-shock-fitting-lessonthe-first-2-pictures-show-a-correctly-fitted-rear/10152322875954603/
  13. I'm afraid to say this isn't the first time I've read of this happening with Terrafirma shocks, where the eye is poorly welded to the top of the shock.
  14. Perhaps the new listing is for a genuine product, but the seller is using "stock" photos? I don't mean "stock" as in any old ones, but rather ones someone else has already taken. Saves a little effort.
  15. I didn't respond previously, because there appear to be cosmetic differences. Not all Disco 1's (if any?) come with a high level brake light, but it looks like D2 screens are configured for one. I also assumed (wrongly probably) that the screen would be bonded, like the side windows. Not true, or makes no difference? Thank you for the info though, useful to know.
  16. Have PM'd you, with an attachment. Hope it helps.
  17. Well, this is embarrassing... I think the cause might have been stones trapped in between the shock washers and the spring seat area. Although there were also signs that a shock washer was rubbing the spring retainer, so I might put it down to that because it sounds like a more plausible reason!
  18. I know this wasn't intended as a "fuel crisis" thread, but I'm based in Swindon and the Disco had had its fuel warning light one for about a week. Not a major issue, I don't commute, but I decided to go fill up anyway. My nearest Asda petrol station was busy, but had no queues, so I pulled in to fill up. "£30 max" sign on the pump! Had to take £30 worth, pay, drive out the "out" and in the "in" and do it again, twice!
  19. No, no change at all. I should find time tomorrow morning to take a look at one of the two shock/spring arrangements. I'm hoping to make progress as so far everything I've done has made no difference at all. 😞
  20. Ah yes, checked those already! Having said that, there is no play, but they have been on there a long time. I think I'll strip back and reinstall both front spring/shocks as I think the noise is coming from there. If I rock the vehicle I can hear a similar noise coming from the front left (I think!). I have spring spacers on there too, and I reckon I might have a washer rubbing or something like that?
  21. I know I am asking for advice for an undefined problem, but I'm running out of ideas! This is the situation on my '94 300Tdi... No unexpected noises when accelerating, no noises when turning left/right at higher speeds (30+) Squealing, or more a metallic scraping sound at lower speeds when slowing, either by braking or just decelerating Noise worsens when turning left, stops when turning right Have recently changed both front and back brake discs/pads (noise was there before) Noise remains with either front or rear prop removed, so wondered if it was the handbrake? Applying the handbrake slightly does reduce the noise, so I stripped and checked that (also newish), nothing untoward Get a similar but shorter lived version of the noise when driving over a speed bump, so possibly suspension related? At this point I'm thinking the only things left are some sort of suspension/steering issue, even though the noise is also there when not steering. Or perhaps is could be the transfer box as it is the only common element when removing props, but why would turning increase the noise? Maybe the front diff, since that would still be turning (when cornering) even with the front prop removed, but all the liquids are in good shape, no metal fragments etc. All bushes look OK (although I haven't taken the panhard rod out to check it yet). Not expecting a clear answer, but what would be your approach to diagnose this?
  22. I used to have mine facing forward, with a grill on, and found that when laning in dense foliage (lots of bushes!) I'd get leaves blocking the entrance as they stuck to the grill. So, I now run mine open and angled over using a 180deg pipe, e.g. aligned to the upward slope of the windscreen. I also change my air filter every 6 months, even if it looks new. Usual contents is bits of leaves. Must say, your filter looks really old!
  23. No, gravity is stopping any rainwater getting in, unless I'm upside down. 🙂 The air filter is just doing its normal job.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy