SPendrey

I can't see why you'd want a snorkel with a filter in open air, that's bound to get wet in our climate. Mine (on a 300Tdi) is open tube until the (engine bay) air filter box, and topped with a u-bend of silicone hose so it points down... simple.

Trigger's broom?

While draining/changing the swivels today, I took a measurement of both steering stop bolts. The near-side was 12.5mm (threaded gap between the hub and the bolt head), but the off-side is 17.5mm. Is this normal? Other than the obvious "they've been adjusted before", what might be a reason for then to be different?

I would avoid Britpart, and welcome Bearmach typically. However, a lot of people will recommend someone like OME. I've had no issues with the Bearmach springs (mentioned above, still fitted today albeit on a different Disco). I do continue to use a small spacer under the driver's side to balance the car up a little. That would be true of any "non-handed" springs.

Is that "Wynns Anti-rag Spray" there?! 🙂

That's not the part you're looking for (in my best Alec Guinness impression). The MFU is more of a "black box" (or beige), but what I mean is it is a closed unit with nothing visible but the connector for a cable. It is mounted on the back of the fuse tray, so you might get lucky! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264993894023?epid=649406371&hash=item3db2ddee87:g:rKIAAOSwcJhf61k9

I carry one, and it has been needed twice. On neither occasion, by me! For Mrs P's car, we've needed the "space saver" to get us to a garage to repair a puncture, but I'm 95% sure I could have got there on the tyre with the puncture anyway.

Put them in the caravan?

That's got to be worth sending back, claiming under its guarantee.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184615310803?hash=item2afbee15d3:g:0HkAAOSwJiJf-wmz Says "requires some welding". Yes, it does.

I was going to suggest "Ultimate" too. You could try "Uber", but a lot of taxi drivers might buy it! Perhaps consider a re-badge for the whole range, and go with a list of known offroad locations, Moab being the top, Baja 2nd, etc. Or perhaps challenges like "Pikes Peak" being top, but I'm struggling with what else would fit here.

Yet again, though, everyone is tarred with the same brush. There was another story published about this particular issue, and how "green laners" drive on footpaths and bridleways etc. etc. Not a fair representation at all.

Sorry, my mistake... thinking back it was the servo in my case, although you say you've tried that already. There is no "slave" either, that's on the clutch! I had to do both at the same time (for different reasons), and my memory is obviously rustier than the car is. 🙂 Note to self: pay more attention before writing stuff!

There is also a slave cylinder (or whatever we're supposed to call them these days), which was the cause of very similar symptoms on mine.

2020 isn't a good year to include in a comparison... many of those cars won't have done the 'normal distance' due to lockdown. My commute bill dropped to zero, that must mean therefore that the cost of fuel has dropped! Wrong.

I think the issue isn't necessarily the "reliability", but the fear of cost in the event of an issue and the hassle involved. LR and Jaguar are now premium brands, as are BMW, Audi & Mercedes as mentioned earlier... so the expectation is if an issue occurs then the bill could be huge. Sure, many are covered by warranty etc., but the used market isn't the same. I colleague of mine has links to a Land Rover dealer nearby, and said they have received Range Rovers from the factory with faults - even before sale. Another friend uses a phrase which I think is apt... "don't buy a 60-grand car unless you accept 60-grand car repair bills".

The commentary appears to focus on headlights/lamps; I wonder if other lamps are concerned? I have an aftermarket high level brake light, which is LED... is that a failure? I also use LEDs in the upper indicators, but regular bulbs in the lower... failure? I'll see in late May.

If it is just foot traffic, consider a wooden slope (treated to make sure it isn't slippery), or perhaps a hard rubber one (if you can find something like that?).

The issue here by just filling in that area, presumably with a slope, will be a weak thin repair. You'd need to dig deeper first to ensure the thickness of the material you lay (or pour) is a couple of inches at least to maintain integrity.

That's exactly what I did. Bought a couple of metal loops for the ends to wrap around, cut out the bad bit (creating a new clean end), then used the splicing technique shown here...

Oh wait, I think that is a trailer hitched on the back?! That would explain it. 🤨

It is difficult to see clearly, but the spare wheel looks like it is for a trailer, certainly not for the, erm, camper/truck/lorry/shed thing. I do like the look of the integrated street lamp, but I suspect that is just a side effect of where they parked.

One benefit of different colours is that you can colour-code the hoses... Blue for water/coolant, Black for oil, green for air (for example). However, I will admit I've only considered it, I've not actually done this!

Ignore me... found them on YRM. Sill closure/floor support panels.

I know, the picture is terrible... I'll try and take some better ones after a clean! However, I'm trying to identify a "bracket" or something that was once further forward on my Disco 1. You can see the photo is forward of the front radius arm mount/outrigger, and there is a rusted metal bracket (with an oval hole in it) that was further forward, maybe attached to the two things sticking down from the top of the picture? Same on the other side of the car, same issue, it isn't in the right place any more. It doesn't appear on any of the Microcat Images that I can find, and doesn't appear to be particularly structural. Was it a mud flap mount perhaps? Any ideas welcome!