bishbosh

No exciting back story from me sadly - surname is Bishop, often contracted to Bish which leads to Bish-bash-bosh and ultimately Bishbosh. Also often referred to as that bloke who gets stuck a lot... often because I have tried a line others were not willing / too sensible to attempt but equally often because I have the off road driving prowess of a damp flannel. That said, I haven't got stuck in over 10 years.......

2005 100 TD5 CSW, in Orange and Black (if that helps! 😛

Sadly we have guests this weekend (so I am instructed) and I have no winch or rear recovery point. Other than that I'd be there like a shot!

Which doesn't really work on a TD5 110 I have discovered as a floor support cross member goes directly over the top of the fuel pump access point. the previous owner installed an access hatch but had to cut the cross member into two which kind of defeats the point of having it! I have resigned myself to having to drop the dank when the pump fails.

That looks fantastic!

There is a vey long standing issue with Discovery detachable towbars where if they were left in "permanently" they would fret an fall out. I presume as the RRS is a Disco in a fancy dress that it is the same issue? Not sure if it was the subject of a recall or not though.

Sounds like I need a Wurth sprayer in my life. Thanks for the advice everyone.

Like @simonr, I had extremely good results with garage floor paint direct onto metal for a roll cage and tree sliders. Was impressively tough and so easy to touch up due to the lack of primer etc. IIRC it was an International Paints product.

Quite heavy duty he says!🤔

Having decided to buy in bulk rather than pay through the nose for aerosols, I am now on my third sprayer as none of them seem to be able to function for more than 5 minutes before the plastic or rubber components succumb. This includes two sold by ECP as specifically for brake cleaner. So can the panel please point me in the direction of a sprayer that won’t break the bank and er, won’t break? Thanks.

Welcome! Sleeping 4 in a Defender is going some I would suggest, even with a pop top. It can be done (there is a family on youtube that do it) but will be expensive (£7-£10k for a pop top for starters) so it will be interesting to see how you go about it. If you are doing big trips abroad then you may be better off with 235 /85 just for spares availability. In the UK there are I think only 3 manufacturers doing the 255's. Not sure abut further afield though. Also, for "overlanding" you aren't likely to be hitting the really rough stuff where bigger tyres come into their own. If that is the only rust on your truck you have already become Mr Unpopular around here! 🤣 Everything can be replaced - sometime there are aftermarket parts, sometimes you have to start with a sheet of metal and make your own. Hopefully you have a welder on your list if you don't have one already - makes Defender ownership far less expensive in the long run! Check out YRM for parts, they do pretty much everything that you can think of... I think! I would wait until you have "finished" (nobody is ever finished with LR mods!) your conversion before looking at the suspension. Depends how much weight you add and where as to what spring / shock combination you may or may not need. Oh, and we demand pictures of your rig we don't even know if it is a 90 or bigger yet!

I strongly suggest you build the truck up so you know what it weighs. Ideally get the front and rear weights. Then you can decide on your desired ride height and select springs to suit. Refer to the boingey bible in the tech archive. for shocks you will need to decide on the length you want / need to accommodate any lift and axle travel aspirations. Be aware you might need different mounts too depending on the shocks you chose. Gwyn’s kit I expect will be good out of the box and he will be more than willing to discuss your needs so drop him a line.

If you return to the Rr market then hold out for a 4.4TDV8. You will not regret it. Full of electrickery but also full of smiles per mile. Effortless power, comfort, ability etc. etc. I really miss mine 😕 You should easily manage high 20's MPG and many get into the 30's but they perhaps don't explore the engine's potential fully!

I can't believe nobody has chimed in helpfully with "They all do that"..... so I will....

Such a simple fix! Thank you both.

Is there a way of repairing the little black serrated stud fixings that clip to the yellow plastic mounts on the door cards? Typically a couple snapped off when I took a card off leaving the card somewhat loose and flappy. I was wondering if there is a repair part that could be screwed to the door card as I can’t see a gluing solution working.

After nearly 20 years my Man, Machine and Chequebook " T shirt has finally reached the end of its life 😭 I think this was the second Forum get together at 7S if I recall correctly.

Nobody is buying that one Ed! 😆🤣

Not sure your drip tray is going to work terribly well...🤣😝

I saw the first photo and thought, blimey, Stephen's tidied up a bit! Then realised it was Ed's shed!

If you don't want to weld the battens on you can always bolt them so you can disassemble.

The gain is the same more or less for I and H sections. Don't want to get into an interweb argument so will leave it there. Bish MEng CEng MICE MSOA 😛

The battens aren't there to help the webs, but to stop buckling of the compression flanges. If you added say 3 flat plates at the 1/4 points, each plate say 150mm long and welded to the top flanges of the beams (batten plate extends to outer edge of the top flanges) they will effectively make the two beams into one with a much greater buckling capacity than the sum of the two individual beams. They will also help (to a degree) restrain the beams against rotation which may help the trolley move more freely. I accept that capacity-wise you may have more than you need as it stands but this simple mod would give you a much more robust gantry. Picture nicked from the interweb as apparently it pints a thousand words...

I would strongly recommend battening the top flanges of your main beams together. It will add a huge amount of stability (and strength) for little effort.

Looks great! Any plans for shocks on the axle or does it ride OK?