bishbosh

What's the square access panel on the axle casing? Locker actuator?

What about a unistrut channel instead of drawer runners? Could that be more rigid?

I have one too - she's great - tells me when my dinner is ready and everything!

Paging @Nonimouse

Frankly, I doubt you'll get a bad job from any galvanizers - it isn't a business any tin pot cowboy can set up - takes huge investment and needs a big client base to survive. So I'd just find your nearest one (check out the galvanizer's association's website) and go for it.

The 28 day figure is arbitrary and is usually associated with strength gain and standard tests that are done - i.e. "28 day strength" The screed may have recommended overcoating durations and the paint will certainly say how young the substrate can be. All will be weather sensitive in terms of impact on durations. The best bits of advice from above are 1. Damp meter, 2 the plastic covering and 3 longer is better!

or run the winch rope under the car, to a snatch block at the back of the garage which will give a centralised pull.

That's because welded joints are somewhat less prone to movement than timber joints. If it was a timber gate I'd agree and have the diagonal in compression to minimise any movement as the joint takes up load.

Yep, as Fridge says, cut out the rot (angle grinder or plasma cutter) then weld in repair pieces. Not a job for the feint hearted but definitely doable by a competent DIYer

Suggest also that both diagonals run from top left to bottom right, assuming hinge is on left hand side and that you are welding the joints. Reason being that your highest loaded, and longest member (inner diagonal) is in tension. You could in theory use round bar for the diagonals to save weight but that would make fixing the wood a tad challenging! Angles would be good for the diagonals, sized to suit your preferred fixing method/ the rectangular frame can be box, angle or channel section, again to suit your chosen fixing method. Having said all that though, realistically, strength isn't the issue here, it is fixing the wood and having enough stiffness to not twist a lot when in use, but at 1.8m high you're going to get a fair bit of that unless you go for silly big sections. Box is prettier, angle is lighter and easier to attach stuff to without creating water traps.

My money is on the tyres too. Best fix for large angry rubber is to put about 200g of ceramic airsoft beads into the tyre and remove all lead balancing weights from the wheel rim. Trust me it works!

Connect them in series for the winch. 😈😈

Any benefits to being centred? I suppose you get equal clearance and interchangeable 1/2 shafts but the downside is it doesn't line up with the front diff so will plough its own furrow?

If you use a second hand chassis then get the vehicle tested. You have no idea as to the history of a second hand chassis (not casting aspersions on Simons chassis!) and it could have been damaged before being sold on to you. What have you got to lose other than a bit of time and some cash? Better off knowing the vehicle is roadworthy than it all going tits up and you end up before the beak for manslaughter. We all think we know how to modify our vehicles safely and, consciously or otherwise, take a calculated risk as to their roadworthiness. But none of us have changed suspension components and then gone through a rigorous, documented, handling testing regime that mimics the type approval testing that a manufacturer goes through have we? As I said, a calculated risk. For me, I'd get some written correspondence from your local testing station about the need or otherwise for an IVA for any proposed chassis modifications, including replacement. The written word of the regulations is always going to be up for interpretation (that's why lawyers exist) so at least having something from a reputable source will mean you're starting from the best possible position if things do go wrong. I mean no offence to those who have contributed to this thread but getting advice regarding the law on an internet forum is inappropriate.

Steve Gittins as in Hay on Wye? Lion Garage?https://www.facebook.com/Lion.Garage

You can get door stays that go to 135 degrees (or thereabouts) off ebay for little money. They make the doorway much more usable. (if that makes sense!)

Just to note you can get it back on its wheels without the half shafts

I have a Halfords impact driver. Doesn't get a lot of use - usually the handbrake drum retaining screw or disc to hub screws. https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/screwdrivers-and-hex-keys/halfords-advanced--impact-driver-and-bits-178172.html Mine came in a cheap plastic case wotsit not the nice metal box shown here but I did buy it over 10 years ago! The tool looks the same though. Has worked faultlessly when called upon.

The "old" Goodyear MTR's were rubbish as a mud tyre but might be OK as an AT?

So if one was to have a 2011 L322 and a 1999 D2 which piece of kit will do both?

I have used the twinwall plastic sheeting. Looks much nicer than the corrugated stuff and more resilient too. You will need to have rafters at the right spacing though to avoid lots of cutting and wastage. It also needs more fixing rails and seals etc so ends up a fair bit more expensive. Worth it if looks are important though.

Jeff is back! Yay! Sorry to hear you were poorly but maybe that illness stopped you killing yourself with a Nige style self inflicted injury?? Ready for the next instalment of your adventures....

You keep them all for yourself! Something about wanting to poop rainbows IIRC? 😛

Ahem!

Not a very exciting thread - gave a builder a drawing and a sack of cash and he built me a double garage. Only problem is it currently only has one light switch and one double socket, neither in particularly useful locations! I do have a box of electrikery to install once I finish my chores around the house and garden.....