bishbosh

Steve, A sketch would help - a 3mm bracket with the load applied at 1mm offset will be fine, if the load is at 100mm, not so much!

Thank goodness! He's finally stopped worrying about flippin shock absorbers and gone back to making things! Hooray! 😛

I may have missed it, but not sure what you mean by following the resultant force? Also don't understand the logic of the "in then out" line of the additional web member? I think you may get some undesired lateral movement when loading that section at midspan due to its asymmetric nature - it may want to twist which could cause some surprises! Are you planning on sandwiching the jack between 2 of these members? That is often the approach I have seen?

Still have my 2011 model LRS fitted. Sadly no stickers - I think they went the way of the Bishtail. 😕

To be honest I take this approach when driving a car - expect everyone around you to do something stupid. Wouldn't catch me on a motorbike (on the road at least) because there are so many idiots in cars.( oh, and I don't have a licence! :D) That said, there are plenty of idiots on bikes too. I often think the advertising campaign "Think Bike" should be amended / appended with "Think Biker, Think!" judging by the suicidal manoeuvres I witness all too frequently.

Isn't that why people grow beards???? 😛

With that much weight I hope you are going to run limit straps on your axles? I can't see any brand of shock being terribly happy with that lot (of very good looking axles and wheels 😎) hanging off them at full droop. Agree that twin shocks are a waste of time - only really were of use on high speed vehicles and nowadays remote reservoir shocks offer more flexible packaging.

On the topic of physics and accidents - speed is the biggest contributor -remember the kinetic energy is proportional to the square of the speed but linearly proportional to the mass so you have to get very big and heavy before you catch up (sorry!) with a little bit if extra speed. KE = 1/2 .m.v2

Very feasible and I can understand your desire to get the diseasel out. I’m not the person to tell you how but a grown up will be along shortly I’m sure. Be warned though, you’ll be badgered into mega squirt pretty quickly which is probably a good thing…?

I would be concerned about the ability of the ali tube to resist localised impacts - it would have to be pretty thick walled I would think. Yes you can design an ali cage to work as a roll cage but the local impacts from tree branches etc would still concern me. Given the value of ali I would sell it and buy some CDS. Then there's the challenge of bending ali tube - that will work harden like a b@st@rd which introduces yet more potential problems.

Not wishing to teach anyone to suck eggs but be careful using a drill as a mill. The drill chuck is likely to be on a taper and this needs axial pressure to keep it engaged. If you try milling with this type of chuck you risk the taper coming lose and your workpiece / end mill being ruined as the chuck decides it wants to follow its own path.

They must be fake - they're not leaking oil!

Looks lovely. What's the midge situation like?

I think the bumper would have to be built very properly as the loads could be pretty substantial. you'd also have to be absolutely certain the rope couldn't jump out of the guide at any point as that would make a proper less of the bodywork! Personally have never had the need for a pull at such extreme angles. better off using a snatch block / ring to divert the rope in my experience.

Ross - I moved so you can't find me. 😛 Tyres are 255 x 50 R20 so teeny weeny 30" diameter in LR speak. Mike - just asking the vendor if he'll deliver to yours... will PM you to avoid clogging up the forum with inane chat.

By Lovejoy do you mean our very own Nonimouse? If so, that would be spectacular as I can easily collect from him and I am sure the seller would deliver to you in Southampton.

I need to get a couple of tyres from Fareham up to me near M5 J21. Tyres will be ready for collection in a couple of weeks Anyone able to help please? Beer tokens available!

Give me a clue here - what exactly have you you changed? Struggling to make it out...... 😛

Just to correct this point - the volume of the shackle pin in the plate is not what you are interested in and offers absolutely no insight into the strength of the connection. From a pin perspective, you are interested in the two shear planes where the pin exits the face of the plate. The shear area (assuming no threads in the shear planes) is 19^2 PI/4 x 2 = 567mm2. You would then go on to calculate the shear capacity of the pin based on its yield strength, the bearing capacity of the plate, the capacity of the weld group and also potentially the tensile capacity of the weakest section of the plate. this will identify the weakest link. I wont bore you here with those numbers. Another comment is that the configuration of the weld group will also be a factor in the strength of the connection - you cannot just compare sizes (ooo-err missus) and assume all will be well. Also, depending on the direction of the load, the weld will be in a combination of shear and tension / compression, not just tension. Welded recovery points are absolutely fine if, and only if, they are appropriately designed and competently fabricated. (this is not a pop at the OP, just a statement of fact). Lots of love, Bish CEng MICE.

Galvanizing and zinc spray are very different. Galvanizing forms a bond with the parent metal so the interface is a mix of zinc and steel (usually) molecules and so doesn't come off easily. Hot zinc spray is just that - effectively a paint coating so definitely not as durable. In my world, things get zinc sprayed if they are too big / awkward to dip. I would think a cast iron item might struggle with the thermal effects of a galv bath, particularly if it is aged and has some rust pitting. It may come out of the bath in more pieces than it went in! That all said, cast iron is very good at resisting rust and actually just blasting it and re-installing it will probably see you out!

Will the spline extensions need heat treatment / case hardening or some such?

I know I am going to incur the wrath of the ARB fan club here but I wouldn't have another one on any of my vehicles. The only positive comment I can make is they do look good, from the front. But they are very heavy, have very flimsy "recovery" eyes located in a silly position low down and stick out so far at the front they are in a different postcode and ruin approach angles. There, I've said it. Off to hide under a rock now... 😛

You'll need to plug her in to a diagnostics tool to find out. Could be electronic, could be mechanical. It is anyone's guess until you plug her in unfortunately.

Get the existing surface planed to remove the paint and expose the aggregate. Then pour a 10mm aggregate mix to bring up the level. Your concrete supplier should be able to advise on any bonding agent and the mix design. You could even use a repair mortar but that will probably be prohibitively expensive. Avoid any tapering of the thickness below 20mm (2 x nominal aggregate size). You'll have to break out locally if you have high spots. Good luck.

3 packets of smarties and a (dark chocolate, obviously) Bounty.