reb78

Can anyone confirm if the clutch release bearings are the same on the LT77 for the Defender TDi and the R380 for the Discovery TD5? They look identical - I think they are p/n FTC5200 for both. I have a spare HD clutch release bearing from the old TDi box on the 110 and am wondering if it will fit the disco.

Can I ask for some pics and details of the install of the EGT? Did you remove the manifold to drill it? Just tap it or something more involved to install the EGT sensor? I have been planning to do this for ages but something else is always in the way.

I am soon to embark on a chassis change. Will include all new (galv) doors and a galv bulkhead. I did my C pillars about 8 years ago but I am going to invest now and get the whole galvanised sill/B pillar/C pillar from YRM. Its about £1k for both sides but with everything else and refurbing panels as I go, I figure I wont need to touch the body or chassis again after this. (do YRM do discounts for big spends??!)

What, you mean you know which way the wheel is pointing so you don't need a pointless sensor on the steering column?! I still jump in the 110 when I have a choice.

Some of the fault responses in modern land rovers make them positively dangerous if a fault occurs at speed. Two that immediately come to mind on the D3: 1. faulty brake light switch- pull out and use kickdown to gain speed quickly. Poor contacts in the brake switch, bong bong bong, suspension lowers to bump stops, no throttle and speed limited to 50. Car behind rams you as you have no throttle. Nice one land rover.... 2. steering angle sensor failure - due to the crappy plastic disc they never fixed properly to the steering column. You are travelling in a straight line but with a slight turn of the steering wheel to the right, the computer decides you have entered a 360 spin and throws the ABS on, on the left side of the vehicle. That makes perfect sense land rover. Thanks for adding that completely unnecessary and badly engineered sensor. Well done. Its no wonder JLR dont score well for reliability.

Agree with all of that. Went to look at a new 90 in 2014/15 with the other half and had an identical experience - the minute they heard we werent interested in an evoque and we were test driving the dirty old defender in the dark corner of the showroom they lost interest. So did we at that point to be fair!

They destroyed an Ipad 2 of ours with an update - one day worked perfectly, the next it was as good as bricked. Even typing produced MASSIVE lag to the point it was unusable. Of course, you cant roll back or root etc like you can with Android and Jailbreaking seems to have died a death, so that was it, machine ruined. That was years ago, but I dont beleive that they have stopped doing it.

Interesting thread this. I hate iphones, but inherit my other half's cast offs when she upgrades, so beggars cant be choosers and all that. BUT I still hate the thing! Despite trying I cant get her to get an Android phone that I can inherit. The prices of the ones here dont seem too bad really. Is there anything suggested in this thread that would be fairly equivalent to the iphone7? I realise its a bit Apples and Pears, but what comes closest to my current cast off?

I have a similar way of thinking. I guess my question was stimulated because the main components (engine and gearbox) - the ones that are a costly pain to replace and in some of the more modern stuff impossible to repair economically, must have a lifespan. I realise that is related to how good the servicing is, but whats the limit on how long a TDV8 (for example) will go really with even the best servicing?? There is a difference too with a car that you have racked the mileage up on vs one you buy secondhand with a high mileage that someone else has put on it. My 110 has 200 and something thousand miles on the clock - all put there by me and I have absolute faith in the engine. I wouldnt have that same faith if I was buying it from someone else...

Its simple Mo... I just cant bring myself to buy a eurobox. I have had some really nice secondhand motors for sub 10k. A couple of really nice 5 series BMWs, the D3 is nice but not my favourite. Much nicer drives than a eurobox, slightly higher maintenance and fuel (maybe) costs and so much more comfortable for the long mileages I do.

I'm curious as to thoughts on here. I keep an eye on D3/D4/L322/L405 land rovers out of idle interest. If a nice L322 came up at the right price I would be tempted. BUT... I keep seeing vehicles with fairly astronomical mileages on them compared to the prices being asked. Some of these are 160/170k miles plus and people are still asking £10-15K or more for them - I couldn't take that gamble with the mileages they are advertised for, even with a service history and the 'motorway miles only, honest guvna' additions to the adverts. Would you??

The 110 is shortly to be stripped. I am replacing the doors and bulkhead and think i will do the sills/B/C pillars at the same time. As a result, I am going to dismantle the body and paint the lot so it all matches. I have never painted before. Is there an idiots guide to getting started anyone can reccomend? Literally from what spray guns to use, how to prep the panels (fillers and primers)? Do I need different primers for the ali panels? The rear doors are galvanised and unprimed, the front doors are galvanised and already primed. The bulkhead is galvanised and unprimed! What paint do you folks use and where do you buy it? Is the colour code on the VIN plate As you can see.... I am not sure where to start... but do want to do it myself.... so any guidance here is welcome! (its a bit of a large question but some pointers to get started would be gratefully received!!)

If i had been quicker yesterday I would have said 'kick her in the guts Bowie'

Haha. Yup. I came to a similar conclusion some years ago!

haha. You aren't called Max are you?

If it was easy to bring Aussie Ford stuff over I would have a '74 XB GT Falcon in the garage. (You might guess one of my favourite films from that...)

I am in exactly the same position! (Replace the l322 in your sentence with d3 in mine)

I wish Ford would/could sell some of their US models over here!

I am soon to begin a chassis change on the 110. I was going to replace a lot of stuff thats hard to do when the body is on. Fuel lines are in my thoughts. Its a 200tdi 110 and the fuel lines from LR are no longer available (I think). I run on SVO a lot of the time if that makes a difference. What have others used? Could I go overkill and use the right diameter cupronickel pipes?

Haha - my chassis change started with changing a rear brake line that probably didnt need changing. I changed the line and bled the brakes. A bleed nipple on the front right caliper sheared. Got it drilled out and re-tapped and refitted. Upon re-bleeding the thread on the bleed screw on the rear left brake cylinder stripped. Whilst changing the rear cylinder, I scraped some rust near the rear shock mount. That led to starting to weld on a plate, then I poked some more rust and found more and more and more.... So, a rear brake line has cost £3k so far in a chassis!

Mine is going to do exactly the same. Chassis is on order. Five new galvanised doors are bought, repaired bulkhead is galvanised. I am just contemplating saying f'*k it and buying the whole galvanised ABC/Sill setup from YRM so basically i never have to touch bodywork again after this year. I am just putting workbenches round the far end of my workshop (about 45 ft of bench!) to start the strip down methodically so I have a rolling chassis when the new chassis arrives.

As above - I am sure your insurance company could give you legal advice on this. I dont know if @cactus is still on here but I think he used to work in this area so may have some advice.

They will be the same clutch but sold by different resellers. I'd just go for the cheapest of those two as the same thing will arrive.

As James says - usually its the decent stuff Allmakes supply.

I'd wager that no Clarke branded MIG is going to give good welds on 20mm anything. Like L19, I'd rather reach for the arc if i can. A 20m lead for the old Oxford unit makes that doable for most of my shed.