reb78

Well that was a balls up. The torx bit has snapped and being hard wont drill. So a perfectly good caliper ruined really. I think time wise I need to give up and will just put two new AP calipers on it. Then when they need a rebuild I can transfer the stainless pistons over from these ones.

Thanks for this. Normally I would have popped up to pick up a nipple (!) but the 110 is in Cornwall. I was going to use it to travel for work on Monday but will take the D3 instead now. I will get a nipple on order. I don't want to change these calipers if possible as I refurbed them with stainless pistons in about 2013 and the pistons are perfect. I might heat it then and hammer in a torx bit and see where I get to with that. Failing that, once I have the new nipple I can at least get a depth on it so I can work out how far I can drill to avoid damaging the seat.

I just worry about flames and that amount of heat near caliper seals??

I have never got an extractor to work. They always snap!! Knowing the size is handy

Can give that a go.

I will give it a go but i had a socket on it when it sheared so fear it is corroded in!

So thought it would be a good idea to change the brake fluid today as its all mucky. Changed the rear left brake pipe at the same time as it was worn against a fixing on the back axle. That took ages as everything is seized. One spanner was all I should have needed but most tools were out in the end.... Anyway, got that done and proceeded to bleed everything. Last caliper and the bloody bleed screw has sheared in the caliper. Two questions: 1. Its flush with the caliper - I presume the best way to get it out is to drill carefully, slowly increasing the bit size? Any other tips? There is nothing to weld onto and I am never keen welding on the caliper as I dont like the idea of the heat near those seals. 2. I need RTC1526 but will this be a standard fit on all calipers? I think these are originals that I rebuilt about 8 years ago with stainless pistons etc... I used to have a set of spare calipers and could have robbed a bleed screw off of them but I think I sold them.

The leak off pipes are from Halfords, Phil but even they dont last like I would like. The pipe from the lift pump to the filter came from the company I bought the lift pump from I think. I wonder if veg oil is not doing them much good. I also think I overtightened the clamp on the filter side of the pipe which eventually means the pipe cracks there.

Haha. I was going to offer the same ^^^ its freezing out there and I cant face going back to the workshed now!

Just had to replace another fuel hose on the 110. I have a slightly custom setup and this is 8mm internal diameter and runs from the Facet lift pump to the fuel filter. I seem to get a leak on this pipe every 2-3 years. That doesnt seem long to me. I carry spare but I would expect it to last longer to be honest. I am sure I bought hose suitable for diesel as it would have been silly not to! What are you using that lasts? Are there any clear hoses I could buy? I am curious to know if there is any air in the fuel system (don't have any real reason to suspect it) but would be good to monitor.

V8Freaks setup is using all Ashcroft parts on his TD5 - Dave Ashcroft will know the setup so worth talking to him about it.

This thread stimulated me to look at options for my rear Salisbury. I really dont think I need a locker having said that... I have been nearly stuck once on a very wet muddy field but dont tend to get into very sticky spots often. But, Ashcrofts show the Detroit in stock...

@V8 Freakhas spent a long time perfecting the auto/Td5 setup in his 90. It works really well.

My 32 year old 200tdi does just that for exactly the reason you say....

When I did my headliner, I just got a flat blade screwdriver under the heads and gently pulled. They all came out fine. They are cheap to buy packs of though - this is one instance where you can trust Britpart for a replacement part!

Reading various forum threads, it seems that those who don't and have never run Detroits don't like them but people who do run them and have them setup properly say they are fine.

Interesting stuff. Can you do a 'how to' with pics when you shim the governor springs? I would be keen to see how to access it all and what you do.

They look like they are evolving into an AT looking at the changes from Andys early one to KM2 then KM3..

I have a hannibal copy on my Brownchurch. I had to use bars to put it on top of the raised edges of the Brownchurch though as it wont fit within it and if it had, you cant fold it out over the back of the landy and use the bottom skirt on the tent. We are down to 5 mins to put up and 7 mins to pack away.

Thanks Jon. I sent the pump to Bob as preventative maintenance really (it was on about 200k miles at this point) and asked him to set it so the performance was similar to when I sent it to him. The boost pin was set with the deepest profile pointing forwards. When it came back, the performance was pretty much identical to when it left me so I confess I haven't opened it up to look at the pin. Its out of warranty now so I could take a look but don't necessarily need to adjust it as I don't want to produce more smoke. I think its at a point where performance is very goos but more fuel will make it smoke.

Haha. You are right though - plus that disco was smoky as anything - I am not sure I would put that forward for an MOT without turning it down first! It would have been interesting to see the dyno run with just the timing advance on standard fuelling and then the fuel tweaks

This is what I am hoping really. I spend a lot of time on the motorway and with the overdrive engaged that sits me at around 2300-2800 rpm but there isn't much happening if you put your foot down then. I don't want pin me back in the seat sort of acceleration but just a bit more response.

Gosh! Aragorns not posted on here for years... I am slightly interested in your username... my uncle used to have a 2200 and a Wolseley of the same era (unless you work on different land crabs!) I am sure others will know the answer to your post

Interesting stuff. Its mental how much water the mats hold. I am seriously thinking of doing this as drying them out in situ is nigh on impossible!

Isnt there a bmw header tank that will fit with the low coolant sensor fitted? I am sure i have read that somewhere.