reb78

Plus why those silly trailing arm mounts that hang down beneath the chassis??

So, this is what the jig is actually for not mine as this is the coupe and restored but this pic is an example of its intended use:

I dont really understand your point. I have the jig anyway for another project repairing a bodyshell so just thought I would use it for this. It will help with painting the new chassis and because its on wheels I can move it around. This is just the start of a build thread. I have no intention of building onto the chassis while on the jig, its not meant to take that weight. Once the chassis is painted I will start stripping the 110 and refurbing the panels. Once the 110 is down to running gear I will transfer that to the new chassis (off the jig) and then rebuild the body. This will all be slow so having the chassis on the jig means it can easily be pushed out of the way and stuck in a corner until I need it. Where it was it was blocking access to the side of the shed. For storing it, take the bottom bars off and the jig will occupy a small amount of space.

Mine have been around the same cost as a new rad but by recoring you keep the brass tanks and have a better rad than the plastic replacements IMO

It will collapse I would think!!

So this Jig came from Ade Foreman - https://en-gb.facebook.com/groups/282852072088530/ Like I said, its for another project and designed for holding an empty bodyshell so you can twirl it round for easy repairs. I just thought it would be useful for the chassis painting since I already had it. Its already serving a purpose as the chassis was in the way in the workshed and now I can move it around. I am very lucky with the workshop. Its huge - can get three cars abreast in it at the end you can see in the photos and work around them. The best thing is that when you are finished at the end of a day you just shut the doors!

Well, I took delivery of a shiny new Richards Chassis a few weeks ago now (mid May) and I just haven't had time to do anything. Small progress as I got it on the rollover jig I have for another project today. Fairly quick job and now I can turn it over for painting and easily move it around the workshop (including outside when I T-wash it prior to painting). Just got to unbolt the turrets from where they were bolted for delivery and the rear body cross member then ready to prep for paint.

I was going to suggest PTFE tape too. I would think an easy and cheap fix for a change!

Noone commercial seems to have a good reputation for bulkheads anymore. My personal opinion is that you are better finding a trusted welder who can repair what you have, get it blasted, galvanised, repainted and refitted. Thats belt and braces but wont need touching again. I bought a repaired bulkhead and had that galvanised and will be doing the swap soon as part of my chassis swap.

Brake fluid spills from messy top ups wont help there either.

Terrain tech are just a seller I think - they well sheilder parts and often I think the ones they dont put a brand against are the sheilder parts. You can repair that hole as mentioned above. I would take out the pedal box and repair from the engine bay. Bit of a faff but easy access once bits are removed. It is the hidden rot that you dont know about that will appear next though.

Yuup^^^ its a core used on caterpillar rads i think. I have one on the 200tdi. Added a few extra litres of coolant capacity too.

Well, the Defender dash is the same level as the bottom of the windscreen so I cant see it encroaching on the view at all as the glass is level with it so if the dash gets in the way, you are actually too short to see out of the windscreen anyway??!

Now there's an image....

Same - there looks to be a bit of swarf on the Turner one at the 12 o clock position. They (the BP and Turner one) both look rough really although the seal surface is better on the Turner supplied one.

Haha. I agree. Its like Ineos threw up on a BMW dashboard and centre console... The manual seats are still heated so there are still electrics in them that will suffer with water... I wonder if the seats will fit my 110........

Wow. Those teeth look rougher than the first photo!

Never heard of it. Just looked it up. Another decent looking motor that hasnt made it to the UK market!

I always carry it, and have used it a few times. Every time I have been glad I did as rather than hours of waiting around I have been back on my journey in about 20 mins.

A bit like Bliars politics? Trying to be so left he hit the far right and 'accidentally' stumbled on capitalism?

On the transfer box perhaps? Theres one like that (but with a clip) on the pto cover for the speedo cable. And another like it on the top bolts for a part of the loom on some vehicles (i may be thinking td5 disco with this one)

Ah. Ok.

It will be on and dead heading when you have ignition on engine off to listen to the radio then. Mine is on a switch.

Screwfix sell a protective flexible ducting that you can pass wires through. I would be tempted to see about something like that and secure it on top of the chassis leg perhaps?

My install: Mo has done the same. I use 100% SVO in the summer months