Pete Attryde

I agree about with most of the above. I must admit I fitted a second hand pump which was £250 so only about twice the price of a decent starter motor. When mine was EDC it would spin over at a normal speed (which to me implied the starter was working reasonably well) but would not catch or would maybe start on one cylinder and eventually splutter into life. I don't dispute that it may well have been a volt drop problem but I think that the issue may be with the EDC wiring not specifically the starter motor causing an unusually high load. To be honest I admire the perseverance of some on here with the EDC system as I just wimped out pulled all the unreliable electronics out and put a proper pump in, which then cured the starting issues and the bad running, job done. Cost me a bit and a day to swap the pump over and change the cam-belt, but I have not (touches wood frantically) had any issues with the thing since. Pete.

Personally I'm not convinced it is a starter motor problem, As I said before mine when EDC used to do the exact same thing and now it's non-EDC having only changed the pump (and correcting the timing) ie the same starter motor, mine starts almost instantly from cold with no heater plug useage, even over the last few reasonably cold mornings (approx -3c). I think you may be looking at another EDC fault or it's related to the dead spot on the throttle pedal. Pete.

Wot he said . Pete.

IIRC you have to pull the three round knobs off and the screws are then revealed. Pete.

I think it is a bit bass light at the front, but I think that fitting decent 4" bass drivers in the door would probably help this. Pete.

Looking at the link in Si's post it is the right one so I have just ordered it. . Pete.

Slight high jack but is this the correct Navigator 7? Navigator 7 As I don't wish to purchase the wrong thing. Pete.

Mines an ES (so reasonably high spec) and has the tweeters on the a pillars as standard and 4" speakers in the doors and rear pillars plus the sub in the back door. Not sure if that helps, Pete.

Yes, should have little resitance to turning by hand when cold, but will turn when the engine is running, and lots when the engine is upto normal temp (obviously stop the engine when it's warm before putting your hand anywhere near the fan ). In this weather, if you don't spend ages sat in traffic jams you could probably safely remove it and run with no fan. I replaced mine with an electric fan and it seemed to improve warm up times. Pete.

Do you have volume controls etc mounted on the instrument cluster surround? If so I suspect it is for them. Un-fortunately mine had already been butchered so I can't take a look and confirm. Pete.

Mark, I wouldbe interested in a couple if you go ahead. Pete.

At tickover it will probably take many hours to warm up (my 300TDi is the same however mine is up to normal on the gauge after about 2 miles of gentle driving.) most TDI's are over cooled as standard. Does it still have a viscous fan on it? If it does is it working correctly? ie. is it free with the engine cold and locked up with the engine at running temperature? Did you get the the correct temperature thermostat as there are a few different temperature ones (I don't know which one it should have.) If everything is ok I would try masking off an amount of the radiator to reduce the airfloe through it and seeing what happens. HTH Pete.

Does the red one have just two wires in it? If it does it is the input for the sub-woofer (which has its own amp in the back door). You can cut the iso connector off and fit phone plugs to allow it to connect to an after market head unit. Pete.

I guess that one is for the sub-woofer built on to the rear door and the other will be for the binnicle mounted radio controls. but I don't know which is which. So not much help really. Pete.

I have a Holux BT-541 (i think from the same seller) and it works very well. Pete.

Looks like he's running the same as me. . Pete.

In the first picture of the thread, the bit with three holes(although if you don't have a rotoflex coupling it will have four smaller holes) in is the diff pinion flange and is the bit that needs removing to put loctite on to the splines of the diff pinion shaft before you reassemble it. Pete.

This shameles plug of my thread in the tech archive might help. Pete.

I have 31/10.5x15 muds (Kumho) and a 2" lift on my 130,000 mile 300TDI Discovery auto and I'm averaging between 25 and 30 miles per gallon. I find that tyre pressure can make a huge difference to MPG plus the roof rack isn't going to be helping. Pete.

235/70-16 and 205/80-16 are both approximately 29" diameter 235/85-16 is approx 32" diameter and 265/85-16 are just under 34" diameter . this Tyre size calculator is useful. Pete.

I have red/white police spec rangy springs on the front of my Disco (no winch) and I would say the front is about 2.5" higher than standard. I have britpart yellow +2" springs on the back which combined with the rubber isolation rings and turning the lower spring mount over (for the x-springs) matches quite nicely. I believe Mark on here has red/whites all round on his Disco and has had to fit spacers on the rear to level his up and still finds the rear springs a touch soft. HTH Pete.

I have 31/10.5/15 KL71's on my Disco and I find them fairly quiet certainly no worse than the BFG M/T's of the same size, I had on my old 90. I am very impressed with there on road ability even in the wet and after the laning trip in the lakes I would say they perform very well off-road on most surfaces (wet grass, wet rock, mud, gravel etc (although none of what we did was especially tricky)). I have done around about 8000miles on mine so far, mostly on road and they are only just showing some signs of wear. all in all I am happy with them. HTH Pete.

I believe that 235/85/16 's will fit with out a lift (just requires some trimming to the rear of the rear wheel arches and adjustment of the steering lockstops.) fitting these will give you around about a 1.5" lift under the diffs which is more useful than just lifting the body/chassis. When I fitted the lift to mine originally I was thinking like you and did not want to have to replace/upgrade lots of parts either but I ended up doing it to make my vehicle driveable (it is my daily driver) in all honesty I would avoid lifting the suspension at all costs as you may find that you end up spending a lot of money you really didn't want too. As I said above this is only based on my own experience with one vehicle. HTH Pete.

I lifted this from a post I made previously to someone asking about suspension lifts. I would just clarify that this is only my experience with my own vehicle and not everyone will have the same issues. Pete.

The english on the website isn't exactly brilliant either. Pete.