steve b

Weighbridge to get the facts on springs and shock settings, an upgraded drag link and some reinforcing of existing portal box steering arms and more testing locally if possible, the tyre issue is limited by what is available with a flexible sidewall that will resist rock/debris cuts and is 38-44" diameter and 20" rim now but could be 18" maybe ? ...oh and an oil light/buzzer, temp gauge/level buzzer and tickle the FIP This is a vindication of the effort and dedication to build it once and right approach all through . Now it's time to dial it all in with some fine tuning Steve

Good to hear it's worked out well Steve

S355 iirc? Maybe something like EN9 might be stiffer? Steve

A bent jockey wheel is right at the bottom of the list of issues with that trailer..... Steve

An extremely successful test run overall (ignoring the trailer...) I've enjoyed reading each update on this and the 7s thread, 8 would seem more fitting when a good one turns up but in the meantime there should be some hidden extra bhp in that 200. I have a 1.003TB here so you know the choice is there, no decent V8's though What psi did you have in the tyres? What is the minimum rim diameter to clear the brakes? I did mention Wildfing on the 7s thread in terms of how both trucks make challenging terrain look like a Park drive, I guess Bill is retired now? Steve

Great video's Bowie and looks like everyone had a good weekend. Sid really reminds me of Wild Fing, makes it all look a doddle. Steve

Welcome to LR4x4, As far as I know it should be the same as Solihull built chassis'. @Eightpot may know more as he is familiar with African derived LR's. The 2.6 is a lovely engine and really suits a Series. feel free to introduce the 109 and yourself in the members vehicles section - with pic's of course - mandatory with all new Series Land Rovers to the forum Steve

Indeed, once this mini adventure is over some pic's of your 109 and a bit of info in members vehicles would be most welcome. Glad you enjoyed Avebury, I always stop in there whenever I'm close for a coffee in the pub. Steve

a quick search suggests these atobtransport.co.uk swindonvehiclerecovery.com a1vehicletransport.co.uk I assume you don't have ADAC or similar as Ralph asked on your insurance/travel insurance? good luck Steve

Sweet Steve

I'll take the last pair please - park them at Pinmill and I'll be in the pub.... All very beautiful- thanks Steve

what a lovely career to be in, a gratuitous pic or 4 would be nice Any steam driven classics? Steve

Certainly fits with the burger trailer look It's looking very tidy Mike - you should do this glassing up and finishing for a living....... Steve

A final reminder about this event, after so many dry weekends the forecast suggests it may be a tad damp. Hopefully not enough to spoil the day for visitors Steve

If you don't have the small loom section with the terminal block on I'll check one I have here tomorrow if possible Steve

On the glow relay connector block you have thick brown - battery live(starter live post) , thin white - ignition live , thin black - earth, thin black/yellow glow warning light and finally heavy black/yellow - glow plugs. The petrol ignition key switch is fine although I would add a 30a relay into the starter white/red circuit. You could use the petrol starter contactor having a brown to one post and a decent gauge white/red to the diesel starter solenoid terminal. Steve

Agreed, but I do also have a Sykes Pickavant tool and several variants of cut off shafts. Anyway the at the point which the shaft splines are trying to engage in the clutch centre boss the spigot nose of the shaft is still quite a distance from the spigot bearing Sometimes it's just a sod of a job for no apparent reason and other times they just push together with no effort or time taken, from experience when it is hard work keeping a cool head is so important Steve

As above. AP Driveline are fine - OEM spec. As Bowie says check the gearbox spline fit on the new clutch For fitting it have the box in 4th/5th gear and support the bell housing with a trolley jack to aid alignment, bolt face needs to be tilted up from vertical. From there it's a matter of getting an even parallel gap between the BH and flywheel housing and the studs radially aligned with the BH so starting with the engine hanging vertical is worth getting right. It sometimes helps to remove the NS engine mounting rubber for that extra bit of wiggle room As it gets onto the studs rotate the crank back and forth and you will feel it engage and then slide on with manual pressure Steve

do the hyd. checks for peace of mind first then remove the engine I think. Alignment is everything when mating engine and box, time spent getting the engine and box in line is worth gold. I once had to rectify someone else's attempt to fit a box back onto a D1 300 that had been forced with threaded rod and rattle guns and I had to unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel while levering the box back to give room (can you believe it ?) Once the box was off a puller was needed to remove the drive plate to show the g/box input shaft had re-formed the splines in centre plate by being forced... I'm not suggesting you went that far but showing an extreme case of forcing things causing damage CD also has made a valid point , I got cornered into using a Britpart HD S2a clutch kit earlier this year due to lack of OEM kits and the centre plate was oversize on the drive material thickness by 0.8mm - doesn't sound much but meant the release throw was not enough to fully disengage the pressure plate Steve

was it a struggle to get it onto the box then ? Even so it's unlikely to have damaged the clutch plate unless forced using jacks or long bolts to pull it together. A brief reminder of what lead up to putting the engine in would be helpful. How long was the engine out for ? Hydraulics don't last forever so a more detailed check must be the first thing before hauling it apart. Clamp the clutch flexi and check for a solid pedal if good , remove the slave without disconnecting the hydraulics and clamp the piston fully in and check pedal, it should be solid. Check the pushrod is in place on the thrust arm. If all the above checks out then it probably will need separating... Steve

uhoh, I completely mis-read your remote question but the pressure bleeder is worth a look. A remote bleed fixed to the bodywork will need a flexi pipe but fixed to the engine at the breather pipe area can be rigid. Worth it for less hassle as access is tight on the 4 cyl. LT77 location. Steve

This Steve

Sealey have a pressure pump res. with the correct fitting cap for Defender hyd. caps. If you buy it you'll wonder why you didn't buy one years ago. Steve

68kg Steve

Air in the system still would be my first check. How did the pedal feel with the spring off? Steve