steve b

The push button type door handle is sensitive to the lock button not moving properly- usually a loose door card/ broken plastic door card slide guide. With the window down it's possible to work the handle button from the outside while pulling the slider button trying to keep it upright and square- this gives max throw on the metal link rod inside Steve

Tidy as always. Am I safe to assume you are enjoying the spool gun/non-ferrous welding plant? Steve ps. .......wiring

What about a couple of small morse cables, then you could have a pair of t levers like a jet throttle? On a more serious note, good and compact and simple, with feel to ease in or out. Once set the lever position will confirm full engagement? Air actuators would really need sliding connections with compression springs to ensure no damage to internals during use. Sure you can reduce flow and/or pressure but it's still remote and out of sight installed. KIS? Steve

They can be a pain- the slave is tilted down (bleed lower than piston ) and do trap air. I use this on the slave (off the bellhousing) to hold the piston in Steve

Welcome to the forum, It could be just down to build tolerances- the thing to measure is inner tyre to front radius arm clearance on full lock against each stop. Steve

What about a modern EDI 4cyl Cummins? Toyota Amazon 6cyl diesel? What would be a common diesel locally(?) in South America? Do you have compliance to take account of? Steve

Nice find, proper industrial unit. Once you have used it a few times you'll wonder how you ever managed before. Steve

Possibly a re-creation/recreation? Steve

That is a top tip Steve

Common on Industrial units and very useful. Sort all your leaks out and make sure your quick couplers don't leak in use- I use some I got through work 35 years ago from Desoutter Air Tools that still don't leak in use. Steve

If you have to refill/top up a 300 it should be through the rad bung first then when full replace the bung then fill the header tank, then warm up and check heater hoses are warm, the bleed hose off the stat should also feel warm. Steve

Just think of it as a faulty wire feed circuit on a welding plant.... .....now do you cut the red wire or the blue one? (copyright=numerous films) Steve

The side view above with the canvas on looks great, this is starting to make standard Ltwt's look wrong. Have you cycled the suspension now it's built? Steve

Great work on the doors and cage...canvas next and then.. Just a couple of terminals to plug in and a bit of wrap should do it Steve

corrected for you Ross Steve

Lovely welds - very positive (see what I did there?) 0.6mm wire? Steve

Fair taxation.............now there's a subject with more legs than a giant Centipede and a worse bite..... Steve

Or maybe this? Steve

Me neither, I will not use them or let a client vehicle through the workshop without removing them and terminating a connection properly. ...it was meant as a tongue-in-cheek bit of humour of course Steve

On the plus side everything else will be done when you do pick up the scotcloks* and insulating tape * I'm 100% sure you will do it to the same standard as the rest of this great build and there are no scotchloks anywhere in your workshop Steve

Very nice Stephen, having a dedicated non-ferrous welding plant is a good move. I've seen some spool gun set ups with variable wire speed controlled on the torch trigger which can be handy on ally. Steve

Knott are pretty good, off to a great start with that Mike. Steve

That looks the right type of thing. Are they Indespension units? Before you strip it, it may be worth checking the suspension units still move ok with load on as older rubber does go hard? Steve

@sprocker90 - this thread may help with pictures of the part I mentioned. Steve

Ah, now I see the confusion- the web pic is the misleading bit. The grub screw I referred to is directly under the gearstick housing which is 4 bolts and remove the whole gearstick and housing in one. The grubscrew is then visible in the gearstick receiver on the end of the remote selector rod. Steve