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I imagine it’s the same for Disco I as Disco II and its worth checking. The drain pipes push onto plastic plugs / sockets which fit into the metal frame of the sunroof. These sockets over time brake away from the sunroof, they don’t come away but do allow water to seep / poor past into the truck. Sadly the only way I have found to cure this is to remove the sunroof, (not as bad as it sounds) and clean up, dry and re-glue the sockets. This cures the leak

Wow you are a God among men. Outstanding. Thank you

Hi. Does anyone know what has happened to GreenOval's web site? I downloaded a copy of microcat some time ago and got it to work, very useful piece of software. Changed my PC and went to their web site to get another copy and the down load page is blank. In fact all the pages are black apart from the home page. I would like to get hold of another copy. Any ideas? Cheers Mark

The holes in the head gasket indicated the thickness. One to three holds. Skim the head by ten thou and you go up one hole from what was originally there. Not sure about no holes.. maybe someone else can answer that one.

Agree more likely to pull off under cornering.

Hi There will be some play in the Transfer box flange when you move it up down, side to side. That’s normal, excessive play is not, trouble is what is excessive play? I would just replace the oil seal ? Can you replace the oil seal with the transfer box in place - yes you can Undoing the nut to get the flange off is difficult best done with an air gun if you have access to one. I have tried locking everything up and using a long bar to give me leverage with no effect. Well bruised knuckles etc but never managed to get the nut off.

I have an auto and for that wee problem I take out the starter motor and stop the starter ring from moving with a large screwdriver. The larger the better Undoing the crank bolt can be done by yourself however doing back up you really need two people. Maybe not the correct way but it works just as well. The starter ring teeth are very strong and have not damaged any yet.

http://cfpfilters.com/store/donaldson_filters.html have you tried ?

"Nut off the crankshaft" This may seem to some like a crazy idea but it has worked for me on several occasions without fail. Socket on the nut lock substantial knuckle bar wedged onto the chassis or something else unmovable and flick the starter.. make sure the bar cannot move up or it will flick off. Off it comes no problem. No need to lock crank or struggle

Why would you do that? What benefit does it give.. not knowing a thing about Toyota's

I have replaced both cills, rear cross member and front N/S inner wing Maybe I should stop looking for the rot. The quality is top notch and I have not had any problems with the parts not fitting. If you give them a call they are very helpfull. Glad to be of service.

http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/range-rover-classic-1-c.asp I have used this company a couple of times great stuff.. very good quality and cracking service.

Should be more clear in your question them. !

Not sure which Range Rover you have, guessing Classic on air as you mention A, B and C pillar rotten, never seen a P38 with rotten pillars.. Unless you can weld I would probably pass it on. Rear Wiper motor, there is a fuse I expect the spindle is seized, it does not get used as much as the front and all the road carp gets thrown up on the back. Loads of second hand one’s on eBay or at breakers, just replace if a bit of work to free it of does not work. Ride bumpy, air suspension can be a little harsh compared to springs, probably normal. Vague steering, yes first thing to check is track rod ends, check steering box for slack EAS deflate, yes not good you probably have a leak and unless you find it soon you will probably have a knackered pump soon. Checks air lines for splits and air suspension bags for ware. Don’t know anything about diesel range Rovers sorry. Cabin vents. The centre vents supply air from the outside this can be shut of with the controls on the panel. ABS light stays on. That’s normal you have to be moving for the ABS system to detect the pulses from the sensor, if it stays on when your travelling then you have a problem. Not sure about number 10? Could just be a tired battery Sounds more like a P38 problem.

Oh most defiantly if you have to take the head off for head gasket get it skimmed You would lick yourself if you didn’t and it leaked again.

Air lock is also an option. Do you get HOT air from the heater in the cab? Okay lukewarm air in the cab? Not that familiar with your engine / radiator, is there a bleed off from the rad to the expansion tank, try disconnecting this and run the engine until it’s a steady stream of water comes out, that should do the trick.

Common practice over here when tricking up the Range Rover is to cut two or three holes along the side of bonnet with a little bit of mesh stuck to the inside. I have seen vents on the top and quite frankly they look horrendous. Side vents do at least look okay. Whether it will actually reduce engine bay temperature noticeably I do not know.

Okay my mistook.. Sorry your right cranked rear trailing arm, however it did have the effect of moving the nose of the diff up towards the transfer box. Or at least the one’s we fitted. With the a frame ball joint fixing the axle at one position shortening / cranked trailing arms will have the effect of twisting the axle and moving the diff nose up. I must confess to not putting the old and new next to each other to see how much shorter they were or in fact if they were indeed shorter but I can confirm the nose of the diff moved up towards the transfer box so reducing the angles on the propshaft. The arms he fitted were Britpart one’s and I know they come in for quite a bashing I did think they were pretty good quality items

I do believe that there aren’t any hard and fast rules for when you lift a land rover as to the effect you get on the rest of the drive train. One vehicle will react differently from another. I have lifted three Range Rovers generally by 2inch’s and only had problems with one. My friends have lifted there 90’s some by more than 2 inch with no ill effects however I do have one poor unfortunate friend who lifted his 90 by 2 inches and like you he eat rear UJ’s (you didn’t say if you had a front or rear propshaft problem) for a past time, after only a couple of thousand miles, and finally eating a transfer box. I’m not suggesting you do the same as we had to, to cure your problem all I can do is tell you what we had to do to cure the problem. And I must say it drives great now. We did try the double carden approach but it just made it worse due to the length of the double carden end shorting the effective gap and increasing the angle of the propshaft (he has it for sale if you want it) Brand now disco2 double carden We finally settled on; Caster corrected rear radius arms Wide angle prop shaft. Oh and replacement of the dead transfer box.

My friend had a similar problem with his 90 the other week. We finally track it down to simply pushing the wires back into the rear of the stalk; he had been messing about trying to fix an indicator problem and inadvertently lessened the push on connectors on the stalk. Got to take it all apart to find to see that they were slightly pulled off from the switch Could be as simple as that. Fingers crossed

Or it could be the fly by wire throttle sensor playing up (That’s if it has one not sure about the Diesel).

Could be sucking in air from somewhere check to see if you’re sucking in air on the fuel side It may need to re calibrate the tick over on text book Hope this helps a little Cheers

Easer to remove the Ball joint unit (Two bolts + the ball joint from the axle) and not the "A" Frame.. That is a night mare

Hahahaha what I put in was replaced with "Mildly miffed" but I'm sure you get the idea

I have to confess if the guy you brought the Disco from didn’t tell you about it I would be pretty Mildly miffed and would be right back to him about it.