V8 Freak

It should rev freely and happily pull over 70 in standard form... Is air filter clean / does it blow black smoke under acceleration / under load? Does it feel like it's running smooth? (May still need to change the injector loom in under the rocker cover..) If you run without MAF, it should feel quite dead for 15 seconds then give a reasonable drive, but nothing as good as with a working MAF. MAP sensor will affect it if dead... Cleaned doesn't mean working ! Do you have anyone local to put diagnostics on it?

The little connector bottom left of the picture is you reverse light switch. Simple thing... You should have a live wire and earth that is connected to your reverse light. When reverse is selected, it closes the switch and powers the reverse light. Check if either of those lights are positive when the engine is running. (I don't have a wiring diagram to hand to check the colour the wire should be) As said above, joining them together when the engine is running / ignition live should light the revers light is the correct wires.

If you could demonstrate the process on your vehicle first It'd be appreciated !!

Something I now have on my "Do sometime" list

Please confirm it's a TD5 and do you have a wire popping up through the access plate under the centre seat / cubby box. (Near the front of the panel, left side of vehicle) If there is a collection of shielded wires there follow to the end and hopefully they will have your OBD socket on there. If no wires popping up through the panel they may have dropped it under the panel, above the transfer box, for additional security !

It's been like this since I've had it Ed... This pic is from the winch installation something like 5 years ago... I've climbed all over it and the angle of dangle hasn't altered so don't think it's related to anything heavy on the wings.. 🤣

Just spotted this thread... My drivers wing has drooped since I've had my truck.... Assumed it was history I didn't know about but no evidence of a crash elsewhere on the truck... No brackets issues like yours, but it's got Air-con so wonder if that's part of the issue as stated early in the thread. I'll watch with interest but not sure I will be doing anything about mine until it really needs to come apart for other reasons...

I've split this thread into two parts. The one above that was a tear-down with great pictures and the remainder now in a rejuvenated thread from 2017 when @western had the original Overdrive issues....

I agree wit Rich, the springs have the be the solution... At rest the unit is not producing any oil pressure as it relies on the running gear spinning. It's feed is after the gearbox, therefore at rest, no oil pressure. When pulling away there is some oil pressure potentially developed but not much because the clutch engagement is the start point and the pump speed is only based on the gearbox output, i.e. really slow.

Silly question time.... @petrolhead63 but are the batteries in the keys in good order??

As the whole device is reliant on the clutch material getting grip and stopping the Overdrive from slipping, using the wrong type of oil will be very detrimental to it's performance. If the hydraulics and clutch areas were separated internally then you might be able to try different oils, but to deviate totally from the specification is only going to lead to the clutch / brake slipping internally. You should only be using ATF!!!

It would suggest that you need a new MAF. As it was better without, it had resorted to a set map internally (Not optimum, but representative) which was better than the one, incorrect, MAF reading it was getting. Ideally, if you can source one, get a good quality Siemens replacement.

Try a run with the MAF unplugged and report back... A misfire could be oil in the injector loom but should be no different wet or dry. (Check for oil in red plug at the ECU.)

HI David and welcome to the forum... It sounds like you may have a sensor not working correctly. Do you have any access to diagnostics equipment ? (Nanocom or similar?) This will help you to identify things quicker. For a start, I'd disconnect the MAF sensor and go for a drive. If it's still the same as when it was connected, it probably needs replacing. (When disconnected the engine may not rev for the first 10 - 15 seconds) The engine ECU has a lot of redundancy and will revert to standard maps if most sensors fail. It won't start or run if the crank sensor fails. When next driving it, see if it feels like a misfire or if the engine is still smooth but down on power. Very hard to diagnose these types of issue without hands on with a diagnostic device and/or a meter.

It doesn't really say why Ashcroft think it's better... If it's just gear selection and not overall life and protection of the gearbox in general then I'd argue it's short term-ism. If it stated that they had reviewed the internal wear on gearboxes that had used this exclusively for 100k miles and could see a marked difference in wear I'd be inclined to go with the Ashcroft recommendation. Other than that, use what was designed to support the product and what Land Rover recommend.

I believe Land Rover specified MTF94 for this gearbox. Do some research, but I used this in mine and had no gear change issues.

Best statement of 63 pages... How did this ever get to 63 pages.... (Mmmm... Moderator options... Lock thread, Hide thread, Deleted thread.....!!!! ooooooo... Run away.. Don't touch the big red button..)

Simply detaching wires would prove this.. It's slipping when not engaged, so not powered. If no power applied and it still slips it proves it not the wiring. The thinking of pressure building up and starting to move the cone clutch is one I considered too, hence replacing the solenoid originally. Good resources: https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/gearbox https://www.landypedia.de/index.php/Überholung_eines_GKN_Overdrives

That was a new solenoid from the OD refurb company up T'north... Such a freekin annoying OD.. Why can't it just work with all them parts new in it !

It doesn't sound like you received an adjustable one... If new, you shouldn't need to play / adjust. The slack is taken up by adjusting the pressure plate that holds the ball element in place on those that can be adjusted. (See below) The slotted section should screw in and out to tighten against the joint element.

@reb78 Alas, the meeting in Castle Donington looks to have been delayed.. I'll know for sure by Thursday!

Shiny!!!! Slightly less shiny after some of those wonderful lanes near you 😂

@reb78 Rich, You want me to try and get this before we meet up in October??

Well that is good news Ralph... Well done.

Mines been on for a similar time to Mo’s and no issues.