Les Brock

Loads of stuff in my build thread IIRC !

Not 110% but given the buzzing it sounds plausible Not easy if they are not working but....... The easiest way to tell if you have dim dip is to have engine running, put side lights on. If you have NO illumination in headlights, you don't have dim dip. If you have a dull glow from the headlight you HAVE dim dip. Pulling the pink thing (removing the relay) does stop the dim dip but it also kills the dip. IIRC (the resistor is buried in the front wing wiring loom ) Found this - Use a fused link to test. Disclaimer - check with wiring diagram first I'm at work so cant really double check

Dim dip relay ? behind the binnicle ?

The only thing I can see Nige doing with a TDi flywheel is dropping it on his foot

Not sure about the bell housing itself, The backplate, however If I remember rightly the housing is completely different as the 300 has a recess for the crank seal where the 200 just has a hole for the seal to be pressed into

Great write up, I did the same TBH , got rid of all the solid pipe via Dave @ Llama !

I bought both mine 2nd hand stripped them down and put them back together wilh no problem ! And they work lol

Dont forget this...

Grey is the new black

I used bits of damp proof course (easy to cut and drill holes in) under washers to stop contact, and lots and lots on copperslip

I ran the Trayback in challenges without that poxy spring and never had a problem ! If it heps lol

My Set up worked fine for me on the old Tray-back so used the same on this one.......

As above you you get some weight on there, they will sit proper like

Great build Mike, and I thought my garage needed a tidy up Oh and.......slow down your showing me up

Was it on the back of a big yellow flatbed taxi to get that ?

There are springs in there ????

There's a sticker ?....................... Well it "is" possible to break it although it is possible to break just about anything

Cross pin in the centre diff ?

Bit messy but it was as it was going in........... Cheepo Chi-wan-eze manifold, air pressure switch and overpressure valve from Ebay, cheapo reulator again from Ebay, Air tank from Scrapper skip lorry Expensive'ish bit was the coelescating filter to take any residual oil out of the air (not good in your tyres) as I use a Air-Con compressor oil drip fed £40 which was stil very cheap of yes...........Ebay

I bought a resonable one got it shot blasted to reveal any rust holes, repaired it and and then got it Galved, worked out a lot cheaper

Think it'll take 7-Days to get it workng ?

There are some pics IIRC on my build thread (linky at bottom sig), def measure 20 times and cut once All the measurement are in the fitting instructions Quite a pig to fit and it took longer than I thought it would, but I fitted the internal bulkhead removal bar as well

G- Valve on mine

BS7671 Section 717 Mobile or transportable units Regulation 717-411-3.1.2 Accessable conductive parts of the unit such as the chassis, shall be connected through the main protective bonding conductors to the main earthing terminal of the unit the main bonding conductors shall be finely stranded Cables HO5V-K and HO7V-K to BS 6004 are concidered appropriate The earthing cable should only carry the current required to trip the RCD which should be a 30mA. minimum size would really be with a mechanical protection 2.5mm