Lewis

It's petty, but I strongly object to the 110 and 130 parts being the same price as the 90 ones, there is more materials, more bracketry, and more finish on the larger ones so how can they justify charging the same rate?

You mean these ones http://www.safari-equip.co.uk/shop/index.php/defender/rock-sliders/rock-sliders-with-nerf-bars-90.html There's never prices Worth noting the paddocks ones are a rip off of these

23grand car and 1200quids worth of winch hawse, someone's doing alright for themselves

I've got paddock ones, if I was buying again I'd buy safari equip or make them myself

My mates 90 has the Safari Equip ones fitted, they have had some right abuse and the powercoat has stood up well. He's owned the car 6years, and before that it was owned by White90 (a former moderator on lr4x4) who regularly competed in winch challenges so they really have lasted well

I used an allmakes seal in my 200tdi, three weeks later I was removing the engine again to fit a genuine seal, the green paint didn't come off mine when I fitted it. Are you doing it as per workshop manual where you remove the flywheel housing to fit the seal? Perhaps that's specific to 200's

You can still just unbolt the door hinge and lift the door off, or bend the top if the door frame away and reach in to wind the window down

Dunno, I took the advice of the Heat transfer engineer at the industrial cooling firm I went to, he's a forum member too. There are fins, they're just not easily visible on a low resolution iPhone picture The rad core is the lower one in the below image

I had an aluminium rad custom made with an open square fin core, it wasn't cheap, but it wasn't as costly as an allisport rad It's built very strong, tested to 1000psi iirc

I've got paddock ones, the fit wasn't great. I painted them myself as they came bare galv finish. I've bent them - both the tube and the box section parts Edit, they've gone up in price loads, I paid £90 Old photo, I've bent them more now

I don't understand your feelings towards an Ashcroft warranty, or lack there of. You wouldn't have a warranty on any of the second hand axles you are considering anyway, and would face similar costs of replacement new parts to Ashcroft kit if something should fail. Below are a few ramblings from me on the subject in no particular order Laplander/C303 axles are getting hard to find, and the higher (more useful) ratio will command a price premium. The last set of low ratio axles I saw for sale were £2k ish. They will also need a disk brake conversion unless you are happy with drums Unimog 404 axles are wide and relatively heavy, the diffs will need pinion conversions, and you will want to fit disk brakes or be stuck with 20" wheels. I can't remember whether the diff turns the wrong way in one/both/neither of the axles so it would be worth checking. These are not an easy fit for most home mechanics. Also dirtydiesel snapped a shaft on his 404's on 38" boggers with a tdi, so they should not be considered as bullet proof as the Internet makes out Toyota axles are relatively pleasant to work on, and you can get parts quickly, lots is available next day UK stock from Toyota. The CV tracks are known to wear through mileage and fail, so it's worth swapping them side to side if you pick up a pair of axles. The standard steering parts will foul Land Rover suspension arms so custom suspension arms will be needed, which is not the end of the world if going one/three/four link anyway. Patrol front brakes are a bit poo, but might be adequate to stop a Land Rover. As mentioned above the rear diff is central so may cause issues on a shorter wheel base. All of the above axle swaps and associated chassis alternations (if necessary) may have implications on legality of the vehicle. This may or may not be a consideration for yourself depending on your intended use. I choose to upgrade my rover axles rather than replace for a number of reasons, which (as with everything in life) are a compromise. I wanted to avoid any legal implications, I wanted to retain standard track width (all of the above mentioned axles are wider), I wanted to use Land Rover bolt pattern wheels, I wanted to spread the cost of the upgrades over a period of time, the max tyre size I required was 35", I wanted to keep costs down with used parts where possible, I enjoy the enormous aftermarket support for Land Rover parts throughout the UK, I wanted to keep parts commonality with my three off-roading buddies, I have another vehicle and my Land Rover is not used daily so it wouldn't be the end of the world if I suffered a massive failure and could not use the vehicle short term, I do not compete so if I break an axle component it will not ruin my day or cost me an expensive entry fee. Land Rover axles ticked all of these boxes for me so it was a no-brainer, I'd suggest that you make a similar list of wants and carefully consider the attributes of each axle type against it I give my axles a bit of death; I regularly reverse up hill on full lock with the front locker in, I regularly get air borne at the top of a climb and land under full power etc, and also do many of the other things people tell you not to do because it kills axles parts, however so far so good. The main recurring issue with the Land Rover axles was snapping drive flange bolts, which I then replaced with larger stronger bolts. Since upgrading them I now experience problems keeping them tight, but I replace them with new every few months, loctite them in, and check them regularly, so the problem is not insurmountable. Worth noting is that my tyres are not ultra aggressive, just BFG Muds.

I've only ever seen the type that Will posted, please let us know how you get on with the dial type

Yes, always pcl, they are the industry standard, I have one at home and several at work

Yes, why?

My winch bumper also wraps around beneath the front crossmember which I then tubed. There's three M12's bolted through the bumper and crossmember. I also trimmed the fronts of dumbirons back a bit to improve the approach angle

I got mine at tyreleader, cheapest place I could find, I was very pleased, and the weak euro makes them even cheaper now

I fitted shorter valves intended for go kart applications. They haven't got any protection but seem to cope fine with the use I give them If you have to have something Zardos' suggestion is the best I've seen

I tend to agree with fridge on this one, security through obscurity seems to be quite effective I can only assume you have little experience welding ss to ms. If you were that concerned use dissimilar rods or over alloying rods

Use stainless not mild steel for your padlock box, it cannot be cut with oxyfuel and will take longer to cut with a grinder You can always line the box with ply and ceramic tiles to make it ultra cut proof

This one? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=91066&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1

As far as I know drop arms only fit in one position on the splines, so you'll have to do the adjustment on the track rod Car looks good

Surely the point is that different people have different preferences. What is the perfect ideal solution to one person might be loathsome and hateful to the next

Quick way of hiding the dents I suppose Are those 200series disco alloys rated for the weight of a 110 on the rear axle?

Mines on the vent flap, keeps it safe

I'm not convinced on that james, my mates 90 was 3.5 hp22 lt230, then 3.9 r380 lt230, now disco 200tdi disco lt77 and lt230, all were with the transfer box in the upto end of 200tdi location, props remain unchanged. Had the transfer box been further forward (as per 300tdi) the sticks wouldn't have fitted through the tunnel surely? And there wasn't a fat lot of room in front of the water pump before the rad for the whole lot to go any closer to the front crossmember Edit, now I think about it it's got the 4cyl tunnel and floor plates fitted, so does that tell us anything?