Lewis

Yes, didn't we go through all this in a recent thread? Transfer box on 4cyl models up to end of 200tdi is in the same location - slightly further back than 300tdi onwards Thread here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=95716&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1

I don't know the answer to either of your questions, but I always thought both shocks went forward when the four door came out? As an aside, modern hilux has one shock forward one shock rearward

33m of 11mm plasma or dyneema seems to completely fill the drum on the ep9. I've got a 20m 12mm plasma I might put on at next rope change, I'll just have to remember to carry the extension rope

There's loads more clearance on the tie bars on your tds compared to my ep9, is it a large drum variant? Your number plate mount looks very professional

Not sure, but I would think probably not given that disco2 box is completely different to defender/RRC/disco1

If the winch is effectively trying to compress the crossmember then all you have to do is hold it in place? My winch is bolted feet forwards so the bolts are only holding it upright Anyway, my point was, look at the shear strength of four m10's, and make sure your mounting point exceeds this load when applied in the correct plane. That would be sufficient surely?

I'm probably missing something here as this seems too simple, but surely your mounting point only needs to be stronger than the four fixings which will be in shear on a normal lowline winch (I appreciate your query relates to a husky which is not a conventional lowline)

I'm with Daan, I vote cut the body to fit the tyres and terrain Also, you need to be serious about evaluating what use your car will have - you've been driving it for two years with no complaints and now two days of off roading makes you want to fit 35's and a body lift. Do you really need to?

It's all bolts on mine, no studs

Ready to race I'd guess somewhere between 2500kg and very heavy

Dan (dirtydiesel ) built that for Steve Lloyd of Midland Catering supplies close to 15 years ago, last time I saw it in the flesh it was red. Kinda ahead of its time really - tube frame buggy, four link front and rear, big v8, portals, 37" boggers, all at a time when the competition was full bodies 90's on simex before anyone had heard of a trayback http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?option=com_phocagallery&view=detail&catid=472:pictures-thanks-to-fiona&id=31885:gmuddytruckers07fiona016&tmpl=component&Itemid=20#

Welcome Do you have any pics of you car to share with us?

I'm with Ross on this one, if I was in the market for a brand new lowline it would be a goldfish every time With regards to the parts interchangeability Al mentioned, I haven't experienced any issues - my front winch was a basket case I built out of mostly Superwinch EP9 parts, some of a Come-up DV9000, and a bit of a Goodwinch TDS Goldfish. Besides colour, the EP9 and the DV9000 are the same as far as I can tell If you aren't desperate to buy new, and enjoy tinkering then there are some bargains available secondhand as long as you know what you are looking for. My EP9 was £70, the DV9000 was £11, and I bought 22 old Champion 15000N's for £200 the lot

Regardless of what it is, unless it's got lockers or other expensive and easily removal parts it's not worth the cost/hassle ratio in my book You're better off buying a 90 if that's what you want. At least you're starting off with a known quantity Just my humble opinion

They shouldn't have deteriorated in the way that they have. An upgrade to better quality stuff like old man emu would be my choice

Easiest way is to park your daily driver facing a wall in the dark with the headlamps on, mark the heights and dip angle on the wall with chalk/gaffer tape etc, Mark front wheel position on the floor, park the Range Rover in the same position and adjust the headlamps to meet your marks I've done loads like this

I'd try a different supplier - they seem a bit fishy. I bought a genuine parts Land Rover rear crank seal for my 200tdi from lrdirect, it came in a Land Rover bag, inside a Land Rover box, and the seal itself was clearly better made than the £8 brut part one I'd bought to compare

Sure, what have you got to lose?

That looks like an Antares split charge unit, they are very good quality, it'll probably fetch a few quid on eBay

Press one of the buttons on the fob, if that doesn't stop the alarm going off press the other button. If it still doesn't work replace the battery in the fob

It is a fail. See below diagram from MOT testing manual

As stated in your other thread on the same subject (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=95829#entry832778) it largely depends what you are going to use it for

The pulleys will be polished shiny anyway through the normal running of the belt. Check the idler pulley on the front cover, the bearings in these are non replaceable and known to fail

It depends what you're using it for. I've thoroughly abused a 550bhp ls3 powered 6l80e defender on the road with standard ish sized road tyres and standard axles and transfer box. It coped absolutely fine, but if you fitted some decent sized mud tyres and gave it some stick off road I'm certain it would kill standard axle parts fairly quickly

I went through this a few months ago, maybe last year. There was a thread in the international forum. In the end I bought a £2 suction mount phone cradle for my iPhone and used a free app on that. It was a good solution http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=89216&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1