SteveG

I think Tony's pic was just to show valves, he's running staz double beadlocks. Steve

get's my vote too.

The terrafirma, like many of the other cheaper reservoir shocks are standard height. I assume they go for standard to meet the volumes in sales required to meet these price point and the market they are trying to address Steve

£40, and I hope someone bids higher as I don't even need them ;)

Hi Steve What's the point you are trying to make with this post?? Steve

Ralph is does happen. When I fitted the Devon 4x4 Challenge springs (about 2" lift) I had terrible vibrations from the front prop. I didn't want the hassle of putting in a DC prop and didn't need the lift so I dropped down to 1" lift. This is on a TD5 though. Steve

1. The headlamp unit (outer lens, reflector, bulb) shall be type approved to ECE 98 and be "e-marked" to demonstrate this. That can only be done by the headlamp supplier - Hella, Valeo etc. who must test the headlamp in an independent laboratory. 2. Once fitted to the vehicle it must have headlamp cleaning and self-levelling (which can be for the headlamp or can be in the vehicle suspension - some expensive estate cars have "self-levelling suspension" and that is adequate). Also the dipped beam must stay on with the main beam. Disclaimer - As I mentioned before, everybody can make their own interpretation of it personally and do what they wish. I'm not trying to preach. So given that, to me the above seems to be quite clear. The unit has to be complete; tested and approved by the manufacturer. No fitting of aftermarket bulbs into a housing, whether it was meant for HID's or not. Must have self levelling. The clue is in the 'self' ;) so manual adjustment won't do. So if you bought a complete HID unit and put in an air sprung RR with headlamp washers you'd be fine. Also if you bought a self levelling HID headlamp and fitted to a non air suspension LR you'd be fine. Anything else, no.

Not sure how you come to that conclusion. I only posted up in the first place in case people were not aware about the illegalities of the retro-fit HID bulb kits. What people actually do is their own choice.

:rolleyes: Actually no, it's for aftermarket fitment dft guidelines. I wish I had it bookmarked now as I had to spend 30 secs googling for it again ;) .... http://www.dft.gov.uk/pgr/roadsafety/drs/hidheadlamps Fact sheet: Aftermarket HID headlamps December 2006 In the Department's view it is not legal to sell or use after market HID lighting kits, for converting conventional Halogen headlamps to HID Xenon. If a customer wants to convert his vehicle to Xenon HID he must purchase completely new Xenon HID headlamps. The reason for this is that the existing lens and reflector are designed around a Halogen filament bulb, working to very precise tolerances. If one places a HID "burner" (bulb) in the headlamp, the beam pattern will not be correct, there will be glare in some places and not enough light in other places within the beam pattern. The following is the legal rationale: The Road Vehicle Lighting Regulations 1989 regulate the situation in the UK. Under these Regulations, HID/Gas Discharge/Xenon headlamps are not mentioned and therefore they are not permitted according to the strict letter of the law. However new vehicles have HID headlamps. This is because they comply to European type approval Regulations. The UK cannot refuse to register a vehicle with a European type approval. These are to ECE Regulation 98 (for the HID headlamps which are tested on a rig in a laboratory) and ECE Regulation 48 (Lighting Installation on the vehicle). For the after market, a used vehicle cannot obtain type approval because it is only applicable for new vehicles. However we feel that saying "HID is banned in the after market" would not be reasonable. Instead we should make analogies with new vehicles. It would be reasonable to require HID in the after market to meet the same safety standards as on new vehicles. The same level of safety should apply. Therefore a HID headlamp unit sold in the after market should: 1. be type approved to ECE Regulation 98 as a component. 2. when fitted to the vehicle should enable ECE Regulation 48 to be complied with (although no government inspection will take place). 3. Comply with RVLR as far as "use" is concerned. In practice this means: 1. The headlamp unit (outer lens, reflector, bulb) shall be type approved to ECE 98 and be "e-marked" to demonstrate this. That can only be done by the headlamp supplier - Hella, Valeo etc. who must test the headlamp in an independent laboratory. 2. Once fitted to the vehicle it must have headlamp cleaning and self-levelling (which can be for the headlamp or can be in the vehicle suspension - some expensive estate cars have "self-levelling suspension" and that is adequate). Also the dipped beam must stay on with the main beam. 3. The headlamp must be maintained in good working order, kept clean, and aligned/adjusted correctly like any other headlamp. Under the Road Traffic Act 1988 it is an offence to supply, fit or use vehicle parts which are not legal. In summary it is not permitted to convert an existing halogen headlamp unit for use with HID bulbs. The entire headlamp unit must be replaced with one designed and approved for use with HID bulbs and it must be installed in accordance with the rules stated above. If you require any further information regarding the regulations covered by this fact sheet, please contact the DfT at the address below: Transport Technology and Standards 6 Department for Transport Zone 2/04 Great Minster House 76 Marsham Street London SW1P 4DR Telephone: 020 7944 2078 Fax: 020 7944 2196 Email: TTS.enquiries@dft.gsi.gov.uk

Unfortunately to be legal for retro-fit they have to be.. In a housing designed for HID not Halogen Have a cleaning mechanism Have a self levelling mechanism

What issues are you having with stability? I assume you mean on road - yes? What shocks and springs are you currently running with your GWL set up? Steve

On your TD5 110 do you have the alarm & immobiliser activated? If not you can do this. Also move the horn from the nearside front wing to somewhere harder to locate and cut the wires. Fit locks to your battery and ECU boxes. Move the ODBII connector into a lockable cubby box, battery box etc, anywhere that it is hard to get too. Then look at circuit diagrams and find a way (or a couple) to isolate some electrics to prevent it from starting. I won't go into details, but on a TD5 it's fairly easy to add some immobilisation in that's hard to track down and correct for any would be thief. As above MeckLock from MudStuff is good. Also ClutchClaw and Full Metal Jacket act as visual and time delay deterrents. Trackers are a waste of time on defenders as they are all too easy to locate and disable. Also a GPS and radio jammers are readily available. Steve

Except it's totally illegal on the road in the UK.

If you off-road often, the DII prop is a false economy as it doesn't seem to last well. Much better to save your pennies and buy a heavy duty DC prop. IIRC they range from about £200-250. Cheers Steve

except that TD5's don't have wading plugs

Better than 'All torque and no vehicle' :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Sorry Will, couldn't help myself ;) ;)

All TD5's do. Remove your dash and look down and you'll see a green box attached to the bulkhead. This is the 10AS alarm/immobilser. Quite a few have fiited aftermarket immobilisers, either not knowing it's there or if their insurance wanted cat II or higher immobiliser fitted. Steve

All TD5's have factory alarm and immobiliser fitted as standard. You just need to buy one or two alarm fobs, about £30 each, and have it activated. Can be done at LR dealers or more cost effectively at an independent LR garage. Cost me £10 to activate alarm and immob and 2 remotes with local LR specialist. Steve

Probably looks worse in the pic and there's probably a nice big LR panel gap ;) - not the best way to look after a recovery strap..

AS above it's very audible clicking sound. Also in slippery conditions when not in ruts you get a pronounced side to side sliding motion on the rears wheels. Seeing as you didn't notice any of these it could be faulty. An easy way to test is on a CLEAR road drive over a manhole cover on one side when braking heavily. This will typically induce enough slippage to have TC and ABS cut in momentarily. Steve

Going by experience on RR's not D3, Pirelli Zero's and Goodyear Wrangler HP's have about the same wear rate. Imho as soon as you get to 3-4mm in both they tramline too much, especially on country B roads so it's time to change for me. For a road biased tyre I found the Continental UHP's best for wear. As James has said AT2's will give you a lot more longevity, and are good in winter and for occasional off road. I run these on the RR and there is slightly more tyre noise but it's fine. imho they are a good all round tyre for a 4x4. Steve

added my vote too

You probably have a Disco II Double Cardan prop. yes, when it fails, throw it in the bin. No maintenance needed Then buy a DC prop that's made with grease nipples. Steve

IIRC correctly 110 TD5 has 75l, and 90 is supposed to be 60l, but as I found out soon after I got it don't use more than 55l

No the CV's on the back should be fine ;) ;) ;) Steve :P