SteveG

That’s for a 90, 110 start at 45K. VAT is 20%.

Don’t know, so let’s go by the car they actually bought and their total price as shown on the video. I just priced up the equivalent of their ~$55K 110, and it’s ~£51K here, so £9000 reduction from walking into a UK dealer.

Ok, so add another $1400, so £6K discount for crossing the pond.

I see that LR are still subsidizing US sales with profits from UK and Europe 🙄 Price starts at $50K vs £45K, so a £7K discount for shipping it 3000+ miles...

Assuming you have the alarm, and not just central locking, then yes you’ll need an alarm remote key to deactivate alarm/immobilizer otherwise it won’t start. You could have your alarm and immobilizer deactivated fully by someone with a diagnostic tool like nanocom etc. or buy a key with alarm fob from someone like remotekey and have this added and synced to alarm with a diagnostic tool.

How good are these where there’s tight access, for example the hole is near a bend/vertical surface? I have a memfast Rivetnut tool, and it’s mostly good, but if a hole is 8mm or less to a vertical surface I can’t get the tool in there to sit flat.

I suspect not, probably manufactured before it was a requirement. It’s usually two digits for the week and two for the year. I’m not certain, but I also think it’s only a requirement for tyres manufactured in EU to have date stamp, not for ones manufactured outside and sold into EU, so you’ll find new US and Far East tyres without any date stamp.

I think it must be me getting old, but I just think all of the LR products are overpriced and unappealing. I gave up buying them ages ago, so I’m not really qualified to judge, but I find they’re not much value compared to estates for a vehicle that for me spends practically all it’s time on road. For the last ten years my three new purchases have alternated between Skoda and Mercedes. Mainly because the Superb and E-class estates are the biggest on the market, so plenty of room for the two dogs. The first was 4x4 superb 2L diesel, then E-class 2L diesel RWD, then the latest, 18 months ago, is a 1.5 petrol superb FWD. All were bought with approximately 20% off list price. All three have been reliable, not one single issue. None of them set the pulse racing, but equally they’re extremely accomplished at what they do, comfortable, easy to drive, good mpg, and all the gizmos and plenty of passenger and boot space. The latest is the least desirable as I’m not a fan of FWD, but the 1.5 petrol is surprisingly good. After the Merc, I changed tack in an attempt to not keep buying new, and went for a 4.6 lpg P38, which after fixing the brakes all round, air suspension compressor and valve block and a few other small jobs when I got it, was completely reliable for 8 months. But, my wife couldn’t get on with lpg, as we didn’t have any nearby garages, to make it convenient to fill up, so I went for the easy option and went for new again and picked the Superb. I was going to go for a 4x4 again, but they were all factory order, 4-5 months, so picked up the 1.5 in top spec for about £25K. (The 4x4 superb and merc were both about £33K each) So for the cost of a base spec New Defender I can have what I use today, and then you’d have £20K free to spend on whatever for off road fun. The only thing I can think of where the New Defender would be an advantage on road, is the 3-4 times it’s flooded here in the last year. With the estates you have to take a 5-10 minute detour, whereas in the Defender you could drive straight through it, but that’s about it. cheers, Steve

I thought I read that’s it’s going to be early 40’s plus VAT and will be classed as a commercial vehicle. Can’t see that somehow, given that it’s clearly set up as a passenger vehicle. No doubt they’ll do a commercial vehicle too. So, if above is correct, it’s going to be about £50K in Uk- seems a bit much to me. Not compared to Defender, but I think that’s overpriced too. 😉

Yes 4.6 v8, now I have room, and nearly all of the dirty/messy stuff done, the aim is to start on the engine over the winter

Just showing these in case they’re ok, you don’t have to say you like them 😉😉😉😉

1000 CCA battery here... https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/hankook-heavy-duty-commercial-battery-mf31-1000/

🤢 🤮

Thanks, no haven’t updated thread -couldn't be arsed with all pics etc. 😉 I’ve got pics of most things if you want any. cheers

Cheers DD 👍 Thanks, getting there slowly.

Thanks John, my first thought was to build them myself. it took 13 1/2 months, but body finally went back on chassis...

Thanks Ralph 👍

I wanted to fit flexi lines to my front calipers and run them down the radius arms, then straight to the master cylinder as this is a lot simpler solution than the factory mix of hard lines round the engine bay and along inner wings, flexi line, then hard lines from top of swivel to bottom of caliper. However, with the design of the RRC front calipers, the straight M10 x1 fitting hoses will foul on the track rod. Is it ok to fit the angled banjo fitting to all calipers? I’m assuming yes, as there’s appears to be nothing obstructing fitting one, so if I get an M10 x1 banjo fitting I should be ok. Or are certain calipers designed to use banjo fittings and some not? cheers, Steve

As has already been said you don’t need too much to move a rolling chassis. I use a cheap atv winch if I’m on my own to pull the chassis back up the slope into the garage. It’s just bolted to a workbench that’s secured. If you zoom in you can see it in this pic..

Good to hear that you’ve found some time free 👍, I often see it in the corner on the walk around videos 😊

The reason the front is not compressing above probably has more to do with running HD springs. Here’s a 90 on standard height factory springs running 255/85 16’s. With the right setup, there’s no problem getting enough upward travel front and rear...

Not sure how many preorders JLR had for the New Defender, but it looks they’ll have go some to beat the bronco... https://techcrunch.com/2020/07/30/ford-bronco-reservations-surpass-150000/

It won’t work as there is no ground connections 😉😉😉😉 In this scenario, would it make more sense to have winch off Batt 2? So therefore have no anticipated high drain conditions off the starter battery. Also, I assume you don’t ever want to connect the batteries (and alternators) in parallel for the winch?

Thanks Bish 👍

Hi My son is in Sennybridge for the next month, and wants to get his clutch replaced on his D2 whilst down there, so can anyone recommend a good LR independent garage in the Brecon area? cheers, Steve