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SteveG

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Everything posted by SteveG

  1. Thanks, I appreciate the response, albeit I’ve got to now go and get yet more connectors. I’ve tried to unscrew them, but they won’t budge without applying enough force to damage them. cheers, Steve
  2. I recently ordered a new SIP compressor and 200l tank. I’m now in the process of hooking it up to my existing SIP compressor with 100l tank. Unlike the existing one, the regulator that comes with the new one doesn’t have the usual female 1/4” fittings it has these fittings with taps included... What are they?? A 1/4 BSP will thread on, but it’s loose as there’s no taper, and it doesn’t look like 1/4 BSPP as there’s no collar at the end for a copper washer/o-ring and also there are two flats on the threads. I assume there some sort of hose fitting that has a nut collar on th
  3. No, although I’m sure there’s plenty of Lane from hell’s. This one is in South Wales, with a less than p38 wide gate at the top. Here’s a video of Mark90 driving it...
  4. When I used to lane the p38, ~2001, there were only about 3-4 lanes I couldn’t do due to gate width. Typically one of them was ‘Lane from hell’ which was a pain in the derrière. Not an issue anymore as it was a RUPP, and some of the other ones may have been as well, so irrelevant now. Only other issue was doing a couple of lanes on the mountainside where it felt like the ruts were the only thing stopping you from sliding down the mountain. In the p38 you could only drop one side of wheels in. Still here, so obviously not an issue, but it certainly made you wish the Lane ended soon.
  5. I assume magnecor are still decent?
  6. I found a hot air gun and scrapers best to get the majority off, then white spirit to clean off last few bits and residue before painting. cheers, Steve
  7. After trying a bunch at various prices, the best one I’ve found is the 3M flexible mask... https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-7502-Medium-Reusable-Half-Mask/dp/B00FYNN5J6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523811575&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+7502+mask Once the mask is bought, the dust filters work out about £8 a pair... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pairs-3M-6000-Particulate-Filters/dp/B00SOKSH0I/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WKKEKP73MCYXCMMYW7C6 The fit is really good, and you can easily drop the mask down around your neck when not needed. You can also fit A1 or
  8. The diesels all used separate pumps so you should be a able to easily source a range rover classic diesel pick up that will fit your tank.
  9. I have a pair of RRC ABS and non ABS swivels here if you want to check if they’re better than yours. Hills Road before Addenbrookes. cheers, Steve
  10. Hi Jon Can’t help with relay, but when I had the non runner range rover classic donor picked up from Manchester to Cambridge, shipping via shiply quote was £267, to give you an idea of worst case costs. cheers Steve
  11. I’ll look on the donor 91 3.9 and what the factory starter cable is. cheers, Steve
  12. Thanks John, this is the reason for posting this stuff on here. For example if you go by the voltage drop theory online and use calculators, like those on 12v planet that recommend no more than 3-4%, you end up needing 16mm2 cable for the rear heated window. LR uses what looks like the equivalent of 6mm2. So from your experience of burning them out, for the starter feed what’s recommended 25mm2? cheers, Steve
  13. They are obviously getting some juice from another circuit. With halogens you wouldn’t see this, but with LED’s they typically switch on at 9v, and draw so little current. When you installed them, did you just plug in or look at removing dim/dip modules, isolating wiring etc.? To get them working ok, you’d need to look at isolating the circuit and directly wiring them in to the main beam and hi beam switches. If you want the option to be able to retrofit in halogens in the future you’d have to do this via relays for a good install. Hopefully this helps. cheers, Steve
  14. I’m learning too . I’ll see what the 221 series look like when they arrive, but so far they look like a good solution to the multiple junctions I’ll need, especially on the lighting circuits.
  15. Thanks for the replies. I’m planning to use 50mm2 from battery to starter, starter to bulkhead pass through and then this to SafetyHub 150 inside the vehicle. A bit overkill, but I already have a couple of metres of both red and black from previous winch installs. The consideration of fitting a fuse was more from a safety point of view, rather than protecting devices. Albeit unlikely, I’d personally rather have a fuse stop a short in the starter wire/starter and theoretically prevent the risk of fire than not. To go with the 50mm2 I ordered a 300A fuse. Reading through is this now t
  16. Thanks for the info. They’re designed for stranded and single core. i just tried the 222 series out with 1mm2, 2mm2, and 3mm2 and all fit ok and are very secure... As you can see from the last pic, it clamps them evenly and securely. You could go belt and braces and fit ferrules. I have some of these that I ordered to use in the motogadget terminal blocks... The max that will fit with ferrules, is 1.5mm2, as you can see the 2mm2 only just fits. Personally, from seeing how well it clamps all the wires tested, I wouldn’t worry about fitting ferrules. I’v
  17. I’ve seen a number of custom bike and car places using wago connectors for junctions in wiring up. Any views on using them for automotive use? https://eshop.wago.com/JPBC/0_5StartPage.jsp?zone=6 Both the 222 and 221 have automotive use listed as an application by Wago, rated to 32A and accept 0.2 to 4mm squared wire, so fine for most wiring applications like lighting, cdl etc. The only issue I can see is they have a max operating temp of 85 deg C. Personally, I don’t plan to use them outside the interior, and most thin wall cable is only rated to ~100 deg C anyway. They se
  18. Bit of an extreme way to keep warm...
  19. Let me know if you need one bringing back, I should be out there again in March, April and May. Likewise, if you need one bringing back they are not bulky.
  20. So Stephen, how many months (or weeks ) of the year do you get weather like this? Very jealous btw.
  21. Sure, this pic gives you the best idea... As shown on the left hand pic, the bus bars are internal connecting to one pin of the fuse on both sides of the RFRM. These pins are not exposed on the underside, even though you can see 7 holes. The holes on the bottom row are left to right - 2nd pin of fuse; not used; 86 of relay; 87a; 87; not used; 2nd pin of fuse. I assume the not used ones are there for the non bus bar and custom versions of the RFRM. You insert Delphi Metri-Pak 280 connectors into the holes... On the topside, the far left and far right pin receptor
  22. I don’t think Motogadget call out needing to protect when switching inductive loads, however, it seems universal with these MOSFET based PDM’s, that the best approach is to fit a suppression diode across any inductive load. The plan is to have the motogadget switch via an Albright isolator the ignition switched feed for the Bussmann RFRM’s (Relay and fuse power distribution unit) two 100A capacity busses. The thought was to use a TVS diode on the output to protect against any potential inductive kickback.
  23. Thanks for the reply TSD, the motogadget has an over voltage protection between 16-40V on it’s supply input, but I don’t know if it has the same on the outputs. I’ll drop them an email and see what max clamp voltage it can cope with. Each output is essentially a MOSFET, so it’s designed to cope with a short circuit condition, and will shut down the output. cheers Steve
  24. Started to snow here, looks like it will be testing my £90 gazebo to the limits over the next few days and it’s lasted so well so far
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