western

Try another turbocharger wastegate unit, the diaphragm in that can split/perish as well.

I'd stick with the 200Tdi or swap in the 2.8TGV, the Td5 will not run without it's ECU, the unit injectors need the ecu to send them a electrical signal to operate at the correct time. I've never seen a standalone ecu for the Td5 engine. LT77 will bolt up to the 200Tdi & TGV [as this engine is a updated 300Tdi] a LT77 could be made to fit a TD5 but the R380 is a much better gearbox [original fit on Td5 vehicles].

did someone call

It should be fine for a few years yet then

OK, it should be possible to ascertain which wires on the RR harness do the same job as the old TD harness, then the remaining wires will connect to the glowplug timer relay & main loom. unfortunatly I don't have RR or Discovery 200Tdi wiring diagrams. but this should help RR electrical diagrams from the Manuals section in our tech archive

Doesn't mean anything, most likely just a landlubber supporter of RNLI. if it was used for reversing boat trailers into sea water it would be much worse, if it's the original rear x member then it's 14 years old & doing very well. would have been better to cut the rusted area out back to clean good material then welded in a insert with a plate over the top.

IIRC Marsland are making S1 LWB chassis. http://www.marslands.com/chassis/series1.htm

Which engine was originally in the 90 ? if it was a 2.5TD you can use the 90's original engine harness.

Hope you have a great event & the trucks look fantastic.

slide the seal protctor over the end of the crankshaft, fit the new seal, then remove the seal protector, it stops the seal lip getting damaged on the crankshaft edge during fitting.

You'll need 5mm thick washers [1 each side of chassis] as a 10mm thick each side won't fit or just use the tiedown rings as the spacer.

Nope, I finished at 1pm today, at home now & only just beat you by a few minutes to the same reply I've down loaded the cat now so can read it offline .

Ha Ha both put up the same page within minutes

Use the existing transporter tie-down rings to fill the space or this washer WC110061L the Jates will fit then, bolt should be just tight enough to move the jate ring by reasonable hand pressure. Have a look here @ page 58 & 59 in .pdf format jate ring RRC3237 bolt BH110281L spacer WC110061L nut nyloc NY110041L

Pinz History ---> here

I had a set on my 200Tdi, they were fine until the injection pump was replaced 7 because the pump rear brackets weren't refitted correctly in-line the pump gear ran out of line & pre-loaded one of the idler gear posts which sheared off after a few 100miles, got myself home & stripped the zues gears off & refitted the original timing setup with a new belt, I will not be buying another set of gears, stay with the original timing setup & just change the belt every 55,000miles, 200Tdi's seem to be very kind to their timing belts I've never had one fail in service, all the life expired belts have looked just as good when fitted, no nasty marks or wear on them.

This link may help change tax class HTH:D

On my 110 I laid a bead of clear silicone sealant around the outer edge & around the heater air intake cutout to prevent water getting under the treadplate cover & rivetted them into place.

Proably Rioja paint code CAQ from LR paint info

One of the rarer full hardtop radio versions too, first one I've seen, since Pinzgauer have been in service, thier just a bit shorter than a standard 110.

I'll wait for the 'BANG' as the gauge explodes

Won't be any good in your 300Tdi though, I listed those above.

Well if you did, it's brill stuff, clutch is still fine, much better than the one we took out

Defender workshop manual shows either the bolt head or one of the side faces of the hex head marked with the tensile rating , no bolt less than 8.8, nothing in EPC about tensile ratings & the SX11025M is missing a digit, it should be SX110251M