Maverik

I did have a crazy idea... Its digital so the speedo head must take a digital signal from the transducer. Now rather than re programming it, could you not just replicate that signal, I presume it works on some kind of pulse???? can you not just increase the frequency of that pulse and change the clock that way? Its like a virtual "drill" fitment as it where...

Hi, found a thread on here about the TD5 instrument conversion, and to get the Speedo head to match with the old anologue one, you can get it sent away to be adjusted. I got in contact with "digidash" as I belive Ralph and a few others have used and the guy has charged me 120 squid for the honour... Has anyone had experience using any other company to get speedo adjusted at all? Cheers Mav

I found a rover V8 on fleebay yesterday with a supercharger... I'll see if I can find it again..

Hi, and welcome to the forum. To be honest I think you've quite accuratly described the normal operation of a Landrover defender cabin heater. The heater matrix is perticularly inefficent and relativly small, that combined with relativly large main radiator and it being a diesel that will tend to want to run cooler rather than hotter, all together create's a really tiddle poor cabin heater. There are numerious topics on here of ways to try and improve it, I myself am trying to come up with an idea too... but unfortunatly the reality is Land rover under spece'd the cabin heater. Mav

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I'm doing well getting things wrong in this thread! LF you're right, for some reason I got it into my head you wanted the diff off... Only one way to get the half shafts out. I wont comment any more, just so I don't confuse Phil any more!! is it friday yet....

I hate doing the front, its a little bit messy... make sure you have lots of rags about the place, as soon as you crack the stub axles off the contents of the swivels will ooose out! I good opertunity to inspect your CV's for excessive wear/corrosion though. There is the other option of takeing the whole swival assemblies off at the axle case flange, doing this though you have to remove your brake caliper... these bits are mightly heavy too as complete units... I think I'd go with removing the stub axle's. You'll need some new "one shot" greese, sealant and threadlock.

It does sound like your sender is doing strange things. A tip, if you think about where the water is flowing around the sysem it will help you understand why things are hot or cold. If you trace the coolent pipes on the engine you can work out where the hot water should be and shouldn't be. when the thermostate is shut, the pump circulates a relativly small amount of water around the jacket of your engine and through the cabin heater matrix, on the engine these are all quite small pipes... when the water gets hot, it pops the thermostate open which opens up a new circuit for the water to flow, this circuit had a much larger pipe diameter than the engine "jacket" circuit, which diverts the hot water into the bigger bore pipe as it has less resistance, so the hot water is flowing into the "top" of the radiator ready to be cooled down. When the water leaves the radiator it should be cold, or the radiator isn't doing its job properly. The header tank has a limited role is makeing sure that there is enough water in the system whern the water contracts and expands causing a volume change. This water in the tank doesn't really get a chance to flow around the coolent system, also if you see where the header tank supplies the system its just as the cooled down water exits the radiator so the header tank shouldn't get hot, it might warm up due to conduction/convection, but generally its quite cool.

just to clarify, drive shaft meaning prop shafts? (ok, bowie69 beat me too it) Its quite straight forward. You should invest in a prop shaft special socket, makes life even easier, and they aren't expensive My link The bolts are Imperial 9/16th AF, so you need that tool and a ideally a 9/16" spanner. Its a simple case of jack up one wheel on the axle side your changeing put it on a stand (so the wheel turns) - allows you to get to all the propshaft bolts by rotating it. Pop all the bolts, be carfull not to drop it on your head! remove and replace with new props, might be worth you getting a new set of bolts too, they could be a bit corroded.

Have you got the right temperature sender for the gauge? it being a disco lump and all? If the top hose is warm/hot then the thermostate is open, if it was closed then it would not be hot at all. Is your water pump healthy? and are you sure your coolent system is well bled? no air locks etc. My Disco 200tdi lumo gets up to temperature within 5-10 minuets of driving usually, doesn't take long at all, but according to my temp gauge it runns a little on the cold side, (needle nearly always sits to the left of center) which I have also heard this is normal for a 200tdi.

Hi and welsome to the forum! Could be just your fuel, its getting to the time of year where the oil people will be putting extra bits into the disel to stop it from going sludg like due to low temperature. Have you filled her up just recently? You'll probably get a little more obvious blue/black/white smoke when its cold as it working extra hard to warm itself up. I wouldn't worry too much about it if you haven't got any other symptoms, just keep an aye on your oil level, temp gauge and the normal stuff.

could it be that your spare wheel is out of balance?, that would exacerbate any problem too.

Just did my front one last night actually. Took me just under 2 hours. There are a few good "how too's" in the Tech archive, also lists the differences between some of the seals and flange fittings.

Here's my tupenth... As rtbarton says is correct. The "effective" rolling circumferance of the wheel is changed when the tire is deflated or over inflated. But you have to take into account that tires have a certain profile at a certain pressure, often the ideal or optimised pressure for that tire profile, i.e optimised for wear/grip etc. The statment can be proved I guess and we all know the effects of what running woth underinflated tired has "tire with a much lower pressure turns more often over exactly the same difference as a tire that is at a higher pressure" but you have to also take into account that the ammount of pressure relative to tire profile is certaily not linear, i.e higher/overpressure tires don't get larger uniformly, they will tend to "bow" in the middle of the tred thus creating a smaller footprint pattern, but you still have the same load acting through the wheel (weight of car)... The circumferance of the tire will change within a tolerance of pressure (small length) but with really flat tires the "deflated" circumferance (minimum it can ever be) still exists, so when it passes under the squashed bit of wheel, it must speed up to keep up with the angular velocity of the "effective" rolling circumferance, and when it gets squashed I'm sure it does all sorts of weird stuff, (stretching, contracting, cooling and heating...) The graphic just illustrates what rtbarton was saying. Is there any perticular reason for this question or are you just proposing it for giggles? Mav

Ok, I'm on a knife edge ready to push the hunk of junk off the top of a cliff. I'm trying to fit a new PAS pump and high pressure delivery hose but I'm having trouble... full history see Linky I have now 2 options, keep buying hoses until I can find the hise with a 90 degree bend and a male fitting OR aquire a "male-male" connector so I can use one of the new hoses I have already. After going to several hydraulics specialist they all tutted and said we can't help you as its a "special" Auto power stearing thread fittings... they couldn;t even tell me what the type of thread was... Can anyone shed any light onto anyone that can supply "special" PAS hose fittings OR can anyone give me the part number for the hose from there own vehicle that has a side entry PAS pump... Thanks for any help anyone can provide. Mav

Cheers, will do that. I went to a couple of hydraulics places today (one benefit of living in the oil capital of the uk)... but non could help me with my PAS hoses! I'm nearing my wits end on this one, decided I'm going to put the old hose back on until I can source the right hose/bits.

Ok, pump fits, hose does not. fed up so going to try and find someone to make the hoses up for me. I've collated what I've found into a word document. Ralph is there any way to attche word documents to these posts? Cheers Mav

We will remember them.

I've found a 2004 5dr TD4 SE with 65000miles on clock for £7500, in Silver, quite tidy actually. Anyone any comments on this? It pretty much matches Parkers price guide, maybe a little over average milage, and price but it looks ballpark??

Sorry, must have had a brain fart, that makes rather a lot of sense, in that case an old style bike shifter would be ideal for this purpose.

Nice looking truck, unfortunatly I can;t help with the Izizu question, as I have a 200tdi lump in mine. You seem to have a small collection of trucks going there!!!

If you have space and time and the motivation I would re-build it. you don't have to decide right now on the drive train, but with present markets and increasing lack and high price of 200tdi spares i would definatly consdier putting a 300tdi into it. But if the engine is in good nick, then keep it. I look forward to the day when I have a wee workshop with overhead lift crane where I can do a ground up re-build, and not having a 10 month time limit!!!

Appologies if I have totally missed the point here, but what is the purpose of a hand throttle? I have pondered this more than once and never quite come to a sesible conclusion...

It depends on the size and location of the hole, but if it looks "repairable" then I would try a solder repair, but if you're taking the heater out to do this anyway, there is also the good argument of fetteling your heater and replacing the matrix, its a simple enough job if you have the time, means drilling out a heap of rivets, and then re-riveting it all back together. I removed my heater and generally overhauled it and gave it a lick o paint.

master cylinder/servo is an easy job to change out if needs be. I got a Lucas master cylinder I think from Fleebay, although I think Paddocks do Lucas ones.