Dave W

To save the existing values just launch megatune and power the ECU up. MegaTune will automatically load all the current values from the controller and you can then simply use the "save as" function to save out the current settings as a .msq file. As above, when you open a .msq file while the ECU is powered on and connected you will be prompted to burn all the values in the msq to the controller. MS1 V3 simply means you are running on a v3 PCB so doesn't indicate the software version/revision. It sounds like you are running a variant of MS1-Extra v29xx the xx will give you an indication of the sub revision, currently this is 29y4. I'd recommend looking at TunerStudio as a good alternative to MegaTune. As well as coping much better with different revisions/settings the registered version can analyse and adjust your fuel map while you drive which, if you're tuning on your own, makes the whole process much quicker and simpler. IMV it's well worth paying the one off £20 registration fee for the auto tune feature. I have a decent 3.9 map somewhere, I'll try and find it and post it unless someone else posts one in the meantime.

No problems here, 1.7 seconds to load a product page. Maybe try a different browser ?

It's pretty normal to get some side to side/up and down play at the output flange.

The ID is 24.3 mm and it's 2mm thick, OD is 30mm - or at least that's what the one I have in my spares box measures. They are probably not required that often these days as the GP upgrade negates the need for them.

Replace or repair ?

The kits just replace the rubber hoses, the hard pipes will need to be replaced. I've fitted both the Goodrich and Britpart kits and both seem fine. I ended up with the Britpart ones because they were out of stock of the Goodrich ones (Britpart sell both) and I've not had a problem with either. I'm not certain but I suspect that both sets are manufactured by Goodrich anyway, there was certainly no visible difference between them and the prices from Britpart were similar.

As Nige says, a bit on the high side. You may be able to bring it down by using more advance - more advance will speed the idle up and then you can close it down by closing the air valve/bypass.

The barrel is longer on the later locks as they have double the number of tumblers so are more secure, more combinations and so on. There is a picture of the two side by side in a thread I created a while ago when I was trying to figure out why my barrel wouldn't fit the rear door.... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=53571&st=0&p=478244

Here's a couple of pics from my iPhone showing the assembly in both locked and unlocked positions... I used the LR loom as it includes all the wiring for the back door in one loom.

You mean exactly as I described it in my reply ? If it will help I may get a chance this weekend to whip the cover off the rear door and take some pictures. I'm sure I've seen pictures of it in a parts book somewhere but haven't been able to find it so maybe I dreamt it !

Just use a TD5 bonnet release, it's a MUCH better and a more reliable system than the older version IME. You can source the lever from the bay of e and the cable is a couple of quid. The lever just bolts onto the side of the driver's footwell, the holes will already be there.

I don't have any pictures but have done the same conversion. There are images in the parts book that give a rough outline of the arrangement. The actuator sits more or less in the centre of the door pointing diagonally up at the top of the lock mechanism. The lock mechanism has a short control wire that comes out of the top of it and this connects to a plastic T shaped bracket which is used to change the direction of pull through 90 degrees. A long wire runs from the other side of this plastic bracket to the actuator. If you get the LR parts it's easy to install. The bracket uses a plastic rivet arrangement to secure it to the door and act as a pivot point - I didn't realise that when I installed mine and it took me a couple of attempts to get it secure enough that it didn't fall out after a few operations. One other thing to be aware of when converting is that the new style door lock mechanism uses a completely different lock barrel that is not compatible with the older design (it's about 10mm longer). About 18 months ago I put a post up on here somewhere showing the differences between the lock barrels.

I simply don't want to screw my truck up for months resolving all the problems that that depth of water, especially when stationary, can cause. I have far too many commitments already without needlessly adding to them. I only compete for fun and for a one day event that sort of punch looks unnecessarily damaging, especially if there's no prior warning given to the competitors. I don't have time to enter a full series so I just try and choose 1 or 2 small competitions when I have a free weekend. Given the number of possible events out there, 2 or 3 on many weekends, all I can do to choose between them is look at pictures and videos from previous events to decide which seem to be the more "sensible" events and organisers. In some cases I've already competed with the organisers so know pretty much what to expect but when I don't know the organiser all I can do is judge based on the information available.

That pic is enough for me to rule out entering any round of the series.

When you can't stop the propshaft ? Unfortunately that's about it really. You can test the light itself by shorting the connector out at the switch (top of the transfer box front output section). It is still possible that the difflock hasn't activated as they don't always go in (or out) immediately as it relies on spring pressure. Try rolling the motor forward or backward a few feet with the lever in the locked position, that may let it pop in.

Is the difflock light coming on on the dash ?

MPG and gearing isn't that straight forward. In theory a 9.7% difference in gearing should relate to a similar MPG increase but in practice it means you'll be using different gears at different times and may well find yourself having to change down a gear to hold your speed on uphill sections. You'll be slower on acceleration, tempting you to use the lower gears for longer and you'll find your brakes aren't as effective. You should get an increase in MPG though, particularly if you do long runs on good roads/motorways. On short runs you may find MPG decreases though depending on your driving style.

The transfer box centre diff isn't really designed to split the power front to rear with any major difference in speed for very long. Running all the power to one axle with the centre diff open/unlocked has the potential to destroy the centre diff. Obviously you need to sort the axle out anyway but the noise you were hearing might indicate you've also damaged the centre diff by running it without the difflock in. At high load/speeds with all the power going to one axle you can destroy the centre diff VERY quickly. If you're lucky the noise you heard will be the centre diff "complaining" rather than destroying itself. It's really not a good idea to "test it" in that manner.

The legal requirement is that the tyres fitted are suitable for the use they are being put to. Providing you don't exceed the rating of the tyres you're fine.

Your intelligence is dwarfed only by your outstanding literary skills, I feel unworthy to answer.

A bad workman blames his tools... the main cause of snagging is bad winch rope management. Freespool helps reduces the number of snags as you're not overspooling but even with freespool if the crew don't look after the rope it'll always bite back in the end.

Did anything come of this ? I need a detachable towing solution for my Defender (90 rear) and am looking for someone to supply/make something suitable.

This weekend, if you don't know if you fancy competing or not you can always just come along and take a look. Please obey all YORC signage and tape when you arrive.

Another vote for freespool, probably the biggest speed improvement you can get for your £ and allows you to then overvolt your motor with reduced risk. I'd have no hesitation in recommending the Delta-Tek freespool, I have them front and rear and been very impressed with them.

Originally all Defenders/RRCs ran oiled bearings front and rear, not sure when they stopped and changed to grease. At the time of the changeover the consensus was that it was done primarily for cosmetic purposes, reducing leakage from the front swivel housing seals by replacing the oil with one-shot grease and completely removing the chance of hub seal leaks. The downside, particularly for the wheel bearings is you now only know that the hub oil seal has gone when the wheel bearing seizes up but at least you don't get oil on your driveway... at least not from the hubs I've never had an oiled wheel bearing seize up on me but have seen loads of seized "greased" wheel bearings. When changing back to oiled bearings you need to change the hub oil seal, the newer types don't actually seal properly. RTC3511 is the one you want for oiled bearings.