L19MUD

Another vote for the halfords ones - I have the small one and the biggest one. Between them they cover everything I need for cars and tractors

As per the title please as i dont have a Defender here to go and measure thank you

Likewise i reckonise "Fudge" still wearing my old bullbar!

excellent, cheers

Hi all I need a part number for a sun roof seal for a Defender 90. The roof is on a 300tdi S reg truck, however the hard top is a different colour so obviously has been transferred to it. Therefore i am unsure of the exact age. The roof is perfectly smooth (no big ridges like on the pre tdi's and no smaller ridges like the newer vehicles) It does however have the 2 rectangular vents on the roof above the back door. Does this make it 200 tdi or 300? The sun roof does appear to be a factory fit item and is identical to the one in my 200tdi 110. Help please as it leaks like a sieve (worse since i have dismantled it cleaned the gunk off and refitted it!) Thank you

Norfolk/Suffolk sounds good to me as I'm based in Ipswich There are not that many lanes in Suffolk that i know of that are a decent length/close together but I think there are quite a few in Norfolk. (especially around the Thetford forest area which is really nice). I also agree it would be nice to meet up with people who I have leant lots from in the last few months! Sam

Just to add to this, I went from standard 90 springs on my 200tdi a few years ago to the HD (genuine) ones all round. I also changed to polybush red bushes. I do a lot of heavy towing so wanted to stiffen everything up. I would say the HD springs are brilliant, they reduce a lot of body roll but are not too hard a ride IMHO. They improved things massivley with a 3.5 ton trailer on the back. As for the polybushes . . They do make things a bit "crashy" and limit axle articulation. If you dont do a lot of heavy towing then i reckon you would be better sticking to genuine LR bushes

I have owned a Series 1 88 station wagon for a few years now and have finally decided to do something with it, it was orignally purchased for spares but it is really far too good to break and would be a shame to lose what is such an original vehicle. It has no log book, or registration numbers on it and I can't find a chassis number (on the front dumb iron someone has welded a patch repair which I suspect may cover it) I have spoken to the heritage center before when i registered an ex military series 3, however I had a chassis number for that one. Can i do anything with engine/gearbox/axle numbers or is this unlikely given that the records held are probably not that detailed? I know it was built 1957 or 1958 as it is an 88 inch, but i'm guessing that wouldnt be anywhere near enough information for the DVLA to issue a number plate. Where do I go from here ? Suggestions please! And before anyone asks, I dont think the history of the vehicle is suspect(ie stolen), It was purchased off a large farm where it had clearly been stood in the back of a barn for a large number of years unused. Thanks in advance

The Falklands is great for Land Rovers! I have been over there 5 times now. I have noticed that there are getting to be a lot more sh!tsubishi's and the like over there. Have fun getting "bogged"!

Just spotted this on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-rover-6x6-/160466818665?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item255c915669 Looks v smart!

I have something similar to these . . . http://www.able2products.com/Update/11_3705_v1.htm The ones I have are mounted on the standard land rover light guards, mounted using double sided tape (car trim tape) on the slat below the headlight so that it does not affect the headlight pattern. Mine are about 3 inches long and about an inch wide. They are black with clear led's that flash orange. They are barely noticable unless you know they are there, but when you turn them on you can see them for miles! I think they were only about £50 for the kit and can be set to various flashing strobe patterns. I have used them on numerous occasions - escorting combines (main reason for fitting them), parked in an awkward place when loading up cars/diggers/etc on the road, and have also used them when recovering a car from a ditch for the police. They dont look bling (as you cant really see them) but they do serve a purpose!!

Just a thought but have you checked the wire to your stop solenoid? I have had the wire break right off before causing the engine to cut out and not restart. Take the wire off, strip it back a little and put a new connector on. It could be a slightly broken connection depending on the position of the wire and would give this syptom. When it refuses to start does the engine turn over without trying to fire?

next time I inflict pain on myself with yet another Land Rover related injury i am just going to refer to the forum to cheer myself up - it could always be worse!! There are enough of these storys now to go into their own special section somewhere!!

How old and what age is your truck? The key will be a clue too - if it is a standard defender key and you dont have any kind of additional key fob then you wont have an immobiliser

come on then - own up, who is bidding on it??

That is a valid and interesting point . . . I suspect it will also depend greatly on the power available as well though - a NA 110 is never going to oversteer even if you welded the axle to the chassis as there is so little power . . . but a tuned TD5/puma or V8 engined 110 could be a whole different story

I had a look at this at Billing on the back of Simon's 110 very impressive (and simple!) There would be one going on the back of my truck if it were a 110 and not a 90!

have you checked the wheel bearings?

I painted a 109 which had a full canvas roof a few years ago with this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Military-Canvas-Soft-Top-Fabric-Camouflage-Army-Paint-/300247013314?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45e81dd7c2 The canvas leaked like a sieve before i painted it and was really badly stained. This smartened it up nicely and stopped the leaks. I cant comment on if it rots the fabric as I dont still have the truck, but as it is paint specifically for the purpose I dont see why it would. I was very pleased with the results

I bought the entire dash and dials (with complete loom on the back of the speedo and dials at billing this weekend for £50 Then managed to buy a complete bulkhead loom for £20 so I have the connectors for the warning lights! Well chuffed Cant wait to get started!

My truck is a 1993 200tdi Defender 90 I have had trouble getting gears for a while but it is now much worse. I can move the gear lever approx 6 inches with it in gear!! I have looked at the top of the box where the gear lever ball fits in the top of the casing. Where the two splines go in the slots at the top it is very worn. I'm guessing this is where all my play is coming from. Question is, is it as easy as just undoing the four bolts that hold that top casing and then replacing the whole lot? Thanks!

I have two pairs of these . .. http://www.toolstop.co.uk/draper-54722-as6000-12-tonne-heavy-duty-axle-stands-p6451 Overkill for a land rover I know but they are nice and high for getting underneather and changing gearboxes etc I prefer these or the clarke ones above as they have flat plate feet as opposed to angle iron feet which dig into the floor. Best bet is to do what i did and get yourself a ramp

I have definately got a set of solid steel (ie with out the stupid caps) alloy wheel nuts that fit a defender/disco 1 and rangie. They are exactly the same shape and profile as the alloy ones with caps (but dont bend!) I dont however have any idea of a part number or where they came from . . . . .

Have you got any before and after pictures? This sounds great - but way too easy to be true!

Didnt LRO have them fitted to their 90? The blue one which they rebuilt (I seem to remember it being a sand colour before with those wheels fitted)