UdderlyOffroad

If this was a HfH-build, I'd be worried. Bungee cords and force applied, what could possibly go wrong Speaking of On it like a Waxoyled cat? Matt

Fairy enough - I did say 'some' of the negative reviews...I expect us upstanding denizens of LR4x4.com are unlikely to be in that category. I too was sure to tug-test mine (fnar fnar), and have had good results bar that first one. I’ve also borrowed ‘proper’ crimp hardware from work in the past – so know the benchmark. It seems that like a lot of the Chinese stuff, the issue is not so much the materials used or the built-to-a-price feel, everyone expects that. It’s the variance in the units produced. Some people get good dies, some people get some dies made of mangled cheese, from the same supplier! Tool ‘teardown’ videos on youtube are my new favourite procrastibation – some are very sniffy about anything that doesn’t say ‘Snap On’, some are very educational. Back slightly more on topic, welcome to the Dark Side Need4speed.

Normal 60-40 electrical solder and muchos flux should be fine. However – you will find that a spool of electrical solder in the required size (so more like plumbing solder thickness, but not actual plumbing solder!), will be quite spendy, maybe £25. So my advice is still spend the £45 on a hydro crimper and practice on a few crimps first. I arsed up the first crimp I did – on an Anderson connector, requiring a spendy £4 set of replacement terminals – and after that all were fine. As with any crimper (even as small one), you’ll feel you need 3 hands at first, but a couple of practices will have it nailed down. I suspect that some of the mixed reviews were from folks who didn’t put the effort in and expected instant gratification

Seconded, for the money, can't be beat! Get one. Just take your time and practice on the bench first with a few spare crimps. Matt

Sounds like you've started something Si! Soon as I get nearer having a running 110 (don't laugh at the back there!), I will look seriously at building one myself. Got some ideas for custom metalwork that will be awkward to make by other means. I've been wondering though: Would it be possible to equip it with a higher-power laser too? Such that one could engrave text (p/ns, 'slot A', 'Tab B' etc) or mark the location of holes too small to make with the plasma torch. Matt

Don't forget that indicators have 2 circuits driving them. Hazards, which must work with the ignition off, and indicators (ignition on only). On most cars these two circuits are separately fused.

Yep, knelt on pop rivets too, becomes especially painful on repeated application. E.g. when one is riveting the deck of a 'beaver tail' onto its frame. By the way, another vote for an air-driven pop-rivet gun, a Chinese special on Ebay is likely to cost less then a decent brand hand tool, and likely produce a better finish. Certainly in my semi-skilled paws it does! Matt

Definitely interest from me too! As for going OTT - why not, it's a hobby, and let's face it, the wiring in a Defender is the classic victim of 'built by Brummies, spec'd by accountants' so improving it has to be a good thing. Even on modern cars, certain lights (brakes, indicators) have dedicated wiring and don't rely on any sort of bus system (albeit with a bulb failure of some sorts). Not to say it can't be done, but it's a path I wouldn't go down - because I don't think it's actually much of an issue.

Think you might be expecting too much from the regs! They're regulations not standards. Doubt you'll find any mention of IP ratings whatsoever. I can't particularly recall seeing them on automotive electrical components either, apart from things specifically marketed as water resistant (e.g. LED Headlamps). As for separate ground points for 'noisy' items - what particularly do you think is noisy? By all accounts a dedicated run straight to the vehicle negative is sensible for CB radios but that's about it. If I were building a loom from scratch, I'd look at the Td5-era electrical schematics as a starting point, especially if you can lay your hands on a ROW-specification schematic (i.e. TD5 loom but a 300tdi 'clockwork engine). It shows the separate earths, as well as 'standard' colours and, importantly cable cross-sectional areas. This will give you an idea of Land Rover's anticipated current draw for their components. Clearly this was sometimes lacking (lack of headlamp relays being the famous example, routing all the electrons through the headlamp switch). This brings me neatly onto: As has been alluded to by other posters, I'd try to fit a Disco engine-bay fusebox (you might want to look at a Disco 2 one - it has special connectors but it looks to me like the individual pins are standard 6.3mm spades. As well as a basic fusebox where the 'stock' one is by the gear levers. Another option might be to look at VWP or Car Builder Solutions' Basic kit car looms they sell. The have, pre-wired, the minimum amount of circuits a kit car builder would need for the basic vehicle functions. Matt

Ahh ok. On another note, have a look at the EGR valve. Mine was, as they say round here, a gunky ferkin mess. Paddocks' own-brand EGR blanking kit soon took care of that, and it appeared to be slightly (slightly) peppier.

Might have missed this Nige, but where are you actually going to mount this sooper-dooper fuse box?

<Sigh> Had put thoughts of purchasing a proper cart to the back of my mind till yesterday...then I read this, went outside to start fixing my Disco 2 (which had lunched its serp belt). I realised my makeshift solution was, frankly, carp: I'm glad those 'Murican Pro chests are decent quality, may have to break out the credit card...again. Oh and ignore the 'blue box'....it's what Paddocks used to pack my order...honest.

Serpentine belt, idler and tensioner health - Check it, and if in doubt renew, before this happens: Good tip on the MAP sensor...is ordinary brake cleaner ok to use? Matt

This! But Newbury has been worth the trip every time so far. Think I've just answered my own question.

Thanks Al, one for the next place... Back on topic, looking good Fridge! I might have missed this, but does the new build give you room to open the Ambulance/series doors and work on it? Matt

Got an email offering free (afternoon) tickets for this. List of exhibitors here... Wasn't gonna go, as it's the same day as Newbury sort out (both are about equidistant in terms of time for me). Was wondering what others on here were planning on? Newbury is turning more and more into a social thing (good and bad), good selection of second hand kit (good), fewer vendors offering bling (good) but I notice quite a lot of names on that vendor list of products I'd like to see in the flesh. E.g. the much-discussed SP Land Rover and their doors... Matt Gah!! I mis-spelled 'Newbury' in the subject line. Mods, please mod! Thanks

Back in '99, I used a disc out of a 3.5 floppy disc folded over into a semi circle. My eyes seem ok, and my guide dog agrees. Seriously, I don't recommend this method, but a no 14 welding glass has to be better than projection viewing. The temptation to peek with the projection method must be hard to resist.

This. I enjoy fabbing up things, but time in the workshop is getting ever more precious. Thanks all, decision made. Anyone made a press brake yet, in the style of the SWAG Offroad kits?:

Interesting. I was going to gather some steel to make one. But by the time I've acquired the steel and the jack, painted it, etc...doubt I'll save much out of £150. If I may, why do you think you should've made one?

This. Durite are the M&S of the auto electrical world. Sometimes others are better value, but 99% of the time the quality is acceptable. And, have a word with the auto electrical supplier. There's trade price, retail price, and taking the pi**. £8 for a relay? Buy cheap, buy twice, but expensive always does not equal good. Matt

Somewhat O/T but am sure am not the only one thinking it: Are these special downlighters (with an IP rating?) or are they just normal kitchen units? If so, do you have linky... Matt

175 A continuous rating. 300-odd A through for a few seconds whilst cranking is fine

Yep, I have a 50% success rate when taking out Defender windscreens. Bribe your nice man to come over and take the glass out for you (assuming you want to reuse it of course). And have some nice thick cardboard and proper duct tape on standby to protect it.

Actually it's one of these Fits in a D2 cup holder, keeps a decent amount of tea warm for long enough...

Full info courtesy of PaulMC in this post...not quite as easy as it would appear. Easiest solution is probably a TD5 disco scrapper... Matt