UdderlyOffroad

The genuine Dixon Bate does have approval, see here. It does act as something of a plough off-road though, but if you know what you’re doing it’s relatively quick to remove… Matt

The two aren't mutually exclusive, quite the opposite in fact. A compressor good for spraying would be also good for running tools! True you'd regulate down the air pressure for spraying, but that's not an issue if it's just you in the 'shop. The other issue would be not running oil in the lines, but then you probably wouldn't do that anyway, a drop of oil 'up the spout' of the tool every day is sufficient. I still maintain that for the keen amateur, you're better off spending your money on a good compressor setup rather than battery powered - a drill driver is one thing, but the Milwaukee Fuel 1/2" impact is £470 from Toolstation, that'd buy a decent compressor and accessories. Other opinions are available of course! Another reason is that even expensive batteries will suffer if not used regularly, meaning that you'll come to use a tool of a weekend and it'll be flat. I think I'd rather have a properly setup air system and know it's ready to go after 30 seconds of running, than have to faff finding the charger or changing batteries. Even inspection lights always seem to be going flat at inopportune moments. Matt

If you have a Defender that age, the most useful part of the Haynes manual is actually the wiring diagram. It may be incomplete, and not quite cover everything, but it shows you how the (admittedly basic) circuits function, far better than the official Land Rover version. However a google image search should find it... Note, this is not the case for later vehicles (300 Tdi onwards), they had far better wiring diagrams. Matt

If my tank was 100l or 150 l am sure it would be ok. As it is, I've managed to do crankshaft bolts (200tdi) with it, but I prefer to use the breaker on something...expensive. As others have said, it's about the pressure x volume giving you the largest amount of stored energy for the gun to use. You can't easily increase the pressure to the gun, so increase the volume. So yes, if you can afford it, go 200 L. The second most important thing is lack of restrictions and in the pipework, so in my case that will mean a 22 mm copper main, probably with 15mm drops at the workbench. But a 22mm drop for the main 'wondering hose' and ditto for the blasting cabinet. Actually I noticed a decent improvement just by using a good 10mm hose. And dont get me wrong, having just spent a year doing up a house, I'm very pleased I stumped up for a decent drill and impact driver. But the milwaukees nut-runners are just a little bit too rich, they're almost the price of a decent MIG

The screwfix site appears to be down at the moment, but push-fit fittings usually specifically exclude compressed air use. Toolstation do a range of fittings meant for compressed air applications, and they don't seem too expensive compared to their meant-for-water cousins. I think I recall a thread where HfH fitted his shed out with them for about £100 of outlay? That said I'm going for copper as I've been squirreling away off-cuts of copper pipe; I have essentially the same plan as James for my new garage. I was going to try and incorporate a PVC wastepipe-based dust extraction system into the compressor dog house, but that's a topic for another thread. When I made my living with my tools, even my £15 ebay cheapie impact gun would crack nuts all day, provided it was connected to a decent size workshop air compressor+tank. At home with my 3HP, 50l Lidl special, not so much. Same goes for my air drill and grinder. I can see why if you're on a farm with many outbuildings, and kit to maintain quite literally 'in the field', dragging air compressors round quickly becomes old. But if you've a got a fixed workshop/shed, I think I'd rather spend the money on a proper compressor setup, with the biggest tank size you can afford. Incidentally, I noted on a recent trip to my local independent tyre fitters, they've switched back from Milwaukees to air-driven impacts. Just my £0.02 however... Matt

You're actually better off using a hacksaw to cut the grooves, an angle grinder will tend to produce folded over edges, you want them as sharp as possible. I started off with a cheapo Clarke set, which was a bit rubbish, but I was a poor student at the time and needs must - and for thread cleaning the 'cut grooves in a bolt' trick works very well. When I got a proper job I was able to, um, acquire a few dormer taps from work. They are like night and day, but the key thing with thread cutting is: take your time, and don't go in cock-eyed. This 'vidjeo' on youtube explains the bolt trick

When people talk about ‘PCL’ fittings, they’re usually referring to the long type in your first link. The fact PCL make other types than their own design is just plain confuddling – I’ve seen people call the latter type ‘Euro’ fittings. I’ve standardised on PCLs and keep a few spare. Two top tips given to me by an old hand were: 1) For the female fittings, buy genuine PCL. Much better than the copies, about a fiver each 2) Make the females last longer by adding a short ‘whip hose’ to any tool which vibrates; Impact guns and air hammers to name the 2 most common. I’ve certainly found no 2 to be true, less so number one. Matt

As others have said, plugging into the headphone socket will give you poor results as a handsfree, and is of dubious legality. My D2 is currently running a cheap Aldi headunit with built bluetooth handsfree functionality, as well as freebie USB stick in its port with a few podcasts/tunes on it. Saves fiddling with the phone and means I'm not subject to local radio stations' drivel or (shudder) Chris Evans. Short story long, someone has engineered solution for the application you want, with a microphone that might even pick up your voice. Why try to lash something together yourself that will never be as good? If you've nowehere to mount a head unit, there are mounts available - marine places do them, or even Mud Matt

Sorry for the O/T question...can you show us what you're connecting to on the ABS pump to make it chooch and bleed through the system? I was under the misapprehension one needed a Nanocom or similar? On topic, Mintex stuff seems fairly, uh, mint. Matt

Seconded. I had cranking (as well as starting/charging) issues on my D2...Fixed by replacing the battery terminal clamps with ones that actually, you know, clamp. Matt

I'm sure a lot of people would be interested - myself included, in what you've done. In my case, the battery management would be interesting. I've currently got plans for a 'relay logic' design split-charge with autodisconnect - but I have been looking at Arduinos and have been messing with the basic 'Uno' developer board. Not made it as far as fancy OLED displays yet, just blinking LEDs! Am sure others would like to see what you've done with the canbus i/f to the Merc engine. Have you thought about uploading your code to github? (stop sniggering at the back!) Or even just uploading the 'sketches' here with some light commenting of the code. I appreciate of course you don't want to slip into the hand-holding people! And yes, fantastic 'cockpit'! Matt

Lo-fi's pretty much nailed it with the above post I think. So I'll add to it: I'll go a step further - avoid, avoid avoid the blue Clarke and the like hobbyist machines. They produce terrible results, and you will struggle to get repeat-ability. Do yourself a favour, save some money, buy an inverter MIG. It doesn't have to be the ESAB, the GYS machines can be had for about £400 and they're great, even on the thin stuff.

If the missus complains you’re encroaching into the garden, why not extend it a bit so you can park garden furniture/tools in there? Or if she doesn’t buy that, tell her that it’ll mean she won’t have to look after quite such a deaf old git in your dotage? I know you said you can’t relocate it outside…but by the time you’ve constructed something around your compressor, with all the associated faff of having to clear a space around it, you could’ve thrown up a doghouse/lean-to style thing outside your shed? Few bits of decking board to make the sides, marine ply roof and felt over it, insulate with kingspan offcuts/seconds and carpet, and add some strategic baffled vent holes…done? Matt

Interesting, have been contemplating this too. Anyone bought a faceshield-ear muff combination they can recommend? Not the type that requires you to wear a helmet Matt

If it's just an MOT - you don't need a specialist Landie place? I’m also based in SE Bristol and I use Luckwell Garage for my MOTs, just off Hartcliffe Way. They’re a VW place really, but the local Land Rover specialist (Land Rover services) uses them for their MOTs too. Matt

Was just about to post the same, unlikely to be JLR. The whole point of those wraps is to confuse and obfuscate the shape. I’ll even throw in a curve ball of Suzuki, who also do a lot of manufacturing in Hungary…

Make up a set of jump leads with an Anderson connector on, you'll be glad you did! Other than that, could be a useful connector the 'other way' as it were, I.e. a means to connect a removable solar panel up. As has been mentioned above, winches and tippers on trailers are the other useful application. Yes you can 'pins' for smaller cable cross-sectional areas, down to about 14 mm2 cable according to the datasheet (pdf). but if you need to run a smaller device, just crimp to an off-chop of correctly sized cable to the pin and splice it to a smaller cable? Heatshrink over it, will look tidy if done properly. See me afterwards boy...

Spent about 2months this year working in Norway, halfway between Stavanger and Bergen. First off, yes there are lots of km of straight pine tree roads – but there’s also km after km of stunning scenery, fjords, islands and the occasional ferry. Obviously, go off the main roads to explore some of the back country. Yes it’s horrendously expensive, especially eating and drinking out, but I assume you won’t be doing much of that anyway in a camper. Supermarkets in Norway can only sell beer (no spirits) up to 4.75%, In Sweden booze is run by a state monopoly chain of shops…So I’d stock up on victuals in France or Deutschland. Speed limits are low and brutally enforced, but again, I doubt it’ll be a problem in your choice of vehicle. There appeared plenty of truck halts by the side of smaller bodies of water, including toilets, where vans and trucks just parked up for the night. I didn't get time to explore these as I was usually trying to make the ferry in order to catch the flight home. Speaking of which, be prepared to make a swift exit off and onto the ferry - about the only way to make a Norwegian angry is to hold him up by fumbling for change at the ferrry toll booth. The drive off the ferry resembles nothing so much as the start of 'Whacky Racers' as everybody jockeys not to get stuck behind the trucks. Obviously check the kit requirements if going in winter (snow rating on tyres, chains…etc), but why would you? Early to late spring is the time to go, Northern Lights notwithstanding! Matt

Evening chaps...because I've solved every other problem on this discovery (cough cough, yea right): I needed to grab some tools out of the rear 'bin' on the Discovery 2 (where the rear fold up seats would be), and frankly I'm sick of pulling everything out of the bin just to reach that doobriewossname at the bottom. Has anyone found a suitably slim bag that would fit in the bin and be robust enough to be a toolbag? I'm sure I could fire up the sewing machine and make something, but my sewing skills are...not what they could be. I'd like to use this bag as my 'away mission' sack, i.e. it contains all the get-you-out of a jam gear, such that if I'm off somewhere in a suspect car, I could just grab this and go. Thoughts? Matt

Zing! The Beeb is the most desperately out of touch organisation, TG was always a money-making thorn in its North Islingtonite side. But kudos to CE for recognising he was the problem. Thankfully it’s only taken him one series to fall on his gold-plated sword.

If it was for a Land Rover, I’d say get a Sankey, no question. However, as you want to tow behind a normal car, then whatever you can find in your local small ads (gumtree) that seems in good condition for a sensible price. Avoid the ‘erde’ type trailers sold in car accessories shops. Overpriced garbage, IMHO.

I was doing the shopping, and despite impending unemployment, I couldn’t resist and bought one. Immediately inserted in my hooter. I also did a corrosion inspection on my (lidl) air compressor tank…so there you go, almost a justification to own one Anyone tried inspecting the bores on their engine yet?

This type: https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-1310-26db-Banded-Earplugs/dp/B000KT765I Love my Peltors for grinding, but they are 'warm'.

I think the others have nailed it Nige, that sort of HD use will involve spending big bucks on a rattle gun and at least 2 batteries. My local tyre place uses the Milwaukee stuff if that's any help. I asked them because I was considering a Bosch 'blue' windy gun as I've already got batteries from my drill driver set. Apparently the Bosch held up well but didn't quite have the Grunt (it's an SI unit) of the Milsuckys. As others have suggested, I'd look seriously at getting the compressor outside into a doghouse? Can always line it with something to dampen the noise if you’re worried about the neighbours. That, and a set of ear plugs on a bit-of-string, is a good compromise between full size cans and annoying foam earbuds falling out

I watched episode 3 on catch up and just fast-forwarded through the interview bit. I think I lasted 30 seconds – it was just awful, luvvie terrible television, of which there’s plenty of other choices (Norton, Ross et al). At least Clarkson had occasionally sensible conversations with his interviewees – e.g. Gillian Anderson being honest about the Defender’s shortcomings. Blue touch-paper lit, retreats to safe distance…