FridgeFreezer

If you're going to go DIS fit Ford EDIS, there are a million rusty Fords in the scrappy with EDIS-4 setups on them that you could probably buy the whole car for £50. Either a MegaJolt (ignition only, about £90) or MegaSquirt (Fuel & ignition, about £250) ECU to control it and you're away. Timing is rock solid and accurate, totally mappable for better driveability, spark is much fatter so the burn is better and EDIS is totally waterproof by virtue of having no moving parts and very well sealed coil packs. Also many EDIS units support multi-spark where it fires the plug several times at low RPM (<1200 ish) to improve burn. Oh yeah you can have rev limit, launch control, NOS...

You need jamesmorfee, he seems to have a veg oil fetish and is running it on his 300TDi.

Welcome! Your first challenge (apart from filling out your profile) is to post a picture of your truck so we can all coo / ask questions / take the mick depending on what's what

It's not the engine damage you need to worry about, it's the damage Jen will do to you for neglecting Bob! If it didn't make any nasty noises you are probably OK.

I know a few of those Aren't there issues between Series diffs having imperial bearings & later diffs having metric?

The price ACR charge for dizzyless ignition you could buy a full MegaSquirt and EDIS setup three times over. :blink:

Benny & Leo ran Mudzillas on their Pajero for Ladoga and were very happy, it certainly seemed to go places you wouldn't expect.

And many happy cambelts to you too

Once my credit card stops cowering under the sofa coughing up blood I'm hoping to be able to make it and offer some support to Jez, yes. At least this year my truck is actually built already although Jez does have a little bit to do on his I believe

Andy has several issues but none that can be discussed on a family forum He did at least two because he has two salisburys on his Ibex. I'd just buy it off him and save time all round don't know how hard it was to do the swap.

How much would you get for the Omex on eBay?

The dash could be at fault, the potentiometer that is attached to the float just provides an electrical resistance so you can't get it reversed (or if you do, it doesn't actually make a difference). It may read inaccurately but not upside-down unless the actual float unit is upside-down. I have a spare unit from a '98 Petrol here (attached to a dead fuel pump) if you want to try that. An idiot with a multimeter and some very basic knowledge should be able to prove if it's the sender, wiring, or gauge/dash that's at fault, it's not rocket science. If it's under warranty then the dealer should sort it out not argue about what it is.

If you must have carbs, stick with the SU's, you should be able to find a good pair for not much if you can't be bothered to rebuild yours. I've had a holley and a weber and both were pants, the holley was just an unreliable PITFA. The weber was brand new and set up right for the engine, while it went very well it may as well have been a hosepipe down the inlet manifold it stalled on side-slopes and the mixture screws loosened themselves in a few days' driving or an afternoon's off-roading. I fitted a stock Flapper EFi system and it went much better than £500 worth of Weber 500 and sexercisey manifold. Then I fitted MegaSquirt and it went even better

Sounds like a strange method to set timing all I can suggest is you try to adjust the sensor as it seems to have more accuracy than the ECU settings allow for. Or you set the offset value to something safe and then shift your whole timing map up by a proper number of degrees to make it correct, even if the numbers then read wrong.

I've found the creepy crawlers to be fine in mud, although I've not had the chance to do a side-by-side comparison with Simex or anything else for that matter. I've only been stuck once since I fitted them and that was in about 4' of water

Ask Moglite about swapping a 4.7:1 diff into a coiler salisbury, he's done it at least twice As for strength, I think a few guys on here run uprated 4.7:1 diffs (Tonk springs to mind) although I've no idea which bits they're using.

Last year we all had Zetagi B150 amps as they're reasonably priced and have a good kick, they do a 300W one too but TBH once you're in the forest no-one's going to hear you after a few miles anyway. We got all our gear from Nevada as they are a good bunch and they're only 15 minutes from my house Hope to see you there, if you've been chatting to Jez you should be getting all the right info anyway. Apart from the bit about it being a really good idea to enter Ladoga

If the starter turns fast when you jump 12v to the starter terminal but slowly when you jump to the starter-side solenoid terminal the only thing in between is a length of cable isn't it? I'd say you have your #1 suspect. The symptoms are strange, could the cable have rubbed on something and be short-circuiting to a bit of bodywork or chassis?

All opinions of ACR and Turners I've ever heard have been positive, however I think Mark has hit the nail on the head, by the time you've paid someone to breathe on a 2.25 you could've bought a V8 and conversion and achieved the same, if not slightly better, result. Of course a V8 conversion isn't bolt-in whereas a tweaked 2.25 is, it's swings and roundabouts as ever. No-one I'm aware of has yet done EFI + distributorless ignition on a warmed up 2.25 and I think that could be an interesting combination as programmable fuel & sparks can overcome some of the driveability issues with fruity engines.

A bit more detail would be handy: Petrol, diesel? Got a snorkel? If so, is it sealed? Checked your air filter for water? Squealing coming from anywhere in particular - engine belts, clutch, a wheel, a bearing, prop/UJ, everywhere? Judder from transmission, engine? Wading plugs in / out / not present?

I'm with Luke on this - the tools they throw in with those cabinets are often poor quality even in the more expensive deals, the really cheap ones are likely to be made of chocolate and will be less use than having no tools at all as they will b*gger things up, break, and generally make things harder. Buy decent quality - Halfords Professional are very good and have a lifetime warranty I believe. Laser and Teng also seem to do some nice stuff for sensible money. Draper and Sealey can be good but they also sell some really cheap tat so beware. If you already have imperial sockets and a ratchet all you need are some metric sockets on a rail and you're covered. Go for the wall-drive 6-point ones. I do as Luke does - if a job needs a certain tool I'll buy it. Sometimes that can be a bit pricey but I have yet to spend more on a tool than it would've cost me to pay someone to do the job. I think the biggest purchase was an 18v sabre saw to remove a pair of 109 tub sides rather than pay £100 per side from Paddocks and that has paid for itself many times over since. Likewise look for deals - I needed a bearing puller for a job and spent a little extra to get a set of four from tiny to huge that were on special offer.

CANbus is an industrial standard, there's loads of info out there and the bits are readily available from the likes of RS, you may be able to make your PC talk to your car without too much faffing about. I have no idea about MOST and how feasible that is to interfere with, although I do have an arc-fusion fibre-optic splicer should the need arise

There are tube and tubeless versions, the part numbers are different and the word "TUBELESS" or "TUBE TYPE" should be cast into the rim like the writing in your photo.

Aaah, thought you were about to buy vital engine bits off eBlag I would ask if you have any good stuff for sale but I'm so skint it's not funny

The smart money says move the ECU above water, no matter how well you seal the ECU or seatbox it's a Land Rover, water is going to come in somewhere and it's only some wire to extend it. Mine is on the ceiling If you do get water in the ECU, shut it off & disconnect power ASAP, wash it out with clean water and leave to dry thoroughly before reconnecting. If any tracks have corroded or grown green fluff, some PCB cleaner and a rub with a toothbrush may save it although if it's bad it may be scrap. I did see one build where they converted the throttle pedal to cable operation and ran the cable to the original potentiometer inside a sealed box raised above water level.