simonb

Have you tried sealing the rear seam of the roof panel that is over the front seats/doors and the main flat panel of the roof and the curved sides? On mine, this was the cause of leaks into the gutters on the inside which would shoot water forward to the windscreen pillars on cornering/braking. You won't see the leaks as they run down inside the top hat strengthening sections and into the folds of the gutters.

There is form V112/V112G which is self declaration for exemption, you should only need this if taxing in person at a Post Office. My tax renewal says "This vehicle may need an appropriate test". Last year it said "valid MOT".

You don't need to apply, but I would suggest changing your vehicle taxation class to "Historic" if you haven't already. By changing status to Historic, then at least the DVLA computer should know that the vehicle is over 40 years old and could be exempt from requiring a MOT. It appears not all traffic police are aware of the rules. I was stopped in my tax exempt Series 3 late at night 6 months ago, for having no MOT. I had to explain the rule change to them. After some checking, a cursory glance over my vehicle, and exchange of details, I was allowed to go. My free tax is due for renewal at the end of the month, hopefully the DVLA computer won't say no....

That is correct, there is more water flow round the cylinders and head nearest the water pump, so the ports are restricted/smaller (at the front), with the bigger holes furthest from the water pump.

My LR Genuine Parts service exchange block (happened before I got it 20 years ago, guess the timing belt went with the previous owner), is a silver grey colour.

The retaining rod isn't M16 or 9/16", its only about 10mm in diameter and much smaller than a wheel stud. Just tried mine and a propshaft nut fits the thread, which I believe makes it 3/8" UNF.

This week in Lidl.... is a 6/12V smart battery charger for just £13.99 and with a 3 year guarantee. It has modes for de-sulphation, quick charge to 80% and trickle, just like the excellent Ctek chargers. I have one of the latter, but have bought one of the Lidl ones as well. It says its suitable for batteries up to 120Ah. Leads look a decent length. Will see how it performs..

No, they are supposed to retain the contacts in the connector. In your 2nd image, it looks discoloured from overheating.

The loom should have originally been clipped inside the wing to prevent chaffing - at least it was on my 1995 300Tdi.

Another vote for a couple of cable ties...

My Genuine Parts one measured almost 6mm thick - stuck to bulkhead but windscreen not yet fitted.

12v to light green /black wire at the pump end, should make washer pump run. Normally no relay for pump (but wiring could have been modified, to only wash when wiping 😮), but take the supply from the battery via a fuse, for testing, not the stalk as there is a relay in the supply to the stalk. Or use the plain green wire at the stalk which should be a 12v live switched from the ignition and connect to LGB wire.

Housings are fine. Buy new seal retainers, they aren't expensive.

The work shop manual states earlier in this topic (in short), inner shaft into box, then fit nut and recirculating balls. Then top bearing, bottom bearing, and outer shaft. Its more than 10 years since I did mine, but from what I remember, if you use enough grease, the balls stay in ok inside the nut. The real faff was getting the top bearing on and the balls to stay into that, as the race is above the worm, so the balls drop out. If you do it as the WSM states, the weight of the inner shaft and the slack in the main nut, causes the inner shaft to drop within the box and then the balls in the top bearing fall out. So I did it slightly different to the WSM, in the end I had the steering box in the vice. I think, I then fitted the top race and balls and held that all up tight against the worm with a couple of jubilee clips around the inner shaft. You can then insert the shaft into the box. Fit main nut and balls. Then fit lower race, balls, shims and bottom plate. With the bottom plate on, the inner shaft won't drop down inside the box. You can now remove the jubilee clips and top race should be flush with top of the steering box casting, keep finger pressure on it - from a friend - so that the balls don't drop out under gravity. You can then fit no 26 from the diagram above, and that will hold the top race firm. Then fit outer tube and all the other bits.

If they don't, Express Paints in Portsmouth do, and they do online orders and next day delivery. Used them loads of times, top service.

You need the multimeter set to volts and the red lead in the socket marked V not A. You will have blown the fuse in the multimeter and may have blown a vehicle circuit fuse as you have created a short circuit across the ignition with the multimeter. If the red probe is in a "V" socket on the meter, (and then connected as before) you should get a reading of battery voltage.

Forget about the seat box holes (yellow) as none of the seat belt bits attach to that. Your twin hole stalk should never have been attached to the seat box, where you marked in "green pen". Its the rear tub front rail which is important. Your holes (red pen) in that look correct for the (correct) single hole stalk. Scotts 200tdi chassis uses the same brackets as my 300tdi, and Landroversforever's sketches tie up with my pics from yesterday. You need to check your chassis has the fixings for the YRM bracket that was linked to. EDIT: So where Landroversforever has drawn his red bracket, that red bit actually goes further to the right on that top hat section (on the top of the cross member) e.g to the right of your bent bolt exhaust hanger. Looking again at that pic, I think you already have that bracket fitted - its that silver/slightly rusty/galv thing that runs next to the tub support channel. You may have to drill a couple of holes in the ally of the tub to fix the captive nut bracket I mentioned yesterday 395252, but that's easier than making bespoke steel bits. EDIT 2 - in your pic with the green pen on - I can see one of the holes in the tub for this bracket. its to the left of your cable trunking. I think you therefore just need 2x 395252. Plus there is the safety aspect, the right bits will have been designed for strength.

In the previous post, those 2 brackets on the cross member bolt through to the front bottom rail of the tub. On the other side of the tub rail is this bracket - part number 395252. The longer bolt on the RHS (passenger mount pictured - they are the same both sides), is the bolt which goes through that chassis bracket. The short bolt just goes through the tub. The captive nuts for the seat belt buckle stalks can be seen at the top of the bracket. As others have said, your bracket in your post needs to attach to the tub/tubular outrigger bracket on the chassis attachment bolts. The studs go through the tub and the inertia reel bolts to that. Here is mine. The galv bit is the tab on the tubular outrigger, with its bolts. The studs that go through the tub for the inertia reel are at the top. Given you have steel in contact with ally, I would strongly advise adding a rubber/plastic gasket between the 2 surfaces to avoid the white corrosion you have in your pic. Mine were made from an old inner tube!

Or with the current weather leave it ports downwards in the sun all day - it will soon be too hot touch!

Probably the transfer box input seal - assuming the drip does not have a red tinge to it. Transfer box off from main gearbox to fix. The main gearbox can stay in the vehicle. If you fit long studs as you remove the transfer to main gearbox bolts, you should be able to slide the transfer back far enough to disengage the main gearbox input shaft and replace the seal. If its red tinged oil, its the seal at the back of the main gearbox. Transfer still has to come off, but the gearbox main seal is more of a PITA as the seal fits over a collar. This ideally needs removing (with a special puller) although some have had success by using a thin steel/plastic guide to ease the new seal over the collar. Old seal needs to be drilled for self tappers to pull it out as the shaft is still in it. Transfer seal on the other hand just hooks out.

Those washers are supposed to be there, as the oil gets hot, the pin protrudes which moves the body of the thermostat back and with it the washers which then close off/or uncover (can't remember which way round it is) a port in the bore, to allow the oil to flow through the cooler. The washers are like a mini piston/seal in the cylinder of the housing that the thermostat sits in.

Is the bulkhead earthed?

My series 3 is classed as Historic so tax free. The MOT runs out on 8th July. Trying to do the annual tax renewal on line, there was no electronic exemption and the paper reminder clearly said I need a valid MOT. But, the new guidelines state being over 40 years old, its exempt and its unmodified as well, means it does fall in the exempt category. It has passed first time annually since its rebuild 10 years ago. I didn't however complete the process right to the end. On the checker , my SORNed 300tdi 90 comes up with no MOT - as expected, but also "this vehicle maybe exempt" which since its 1995, it isn't, if I were to put it back on the road. I reckon the checker will say the same when the MOT runs out. Thinking logically, if I don't get it MOTed again, that will be the case. It will be interesting to see what happens in a year's time when I have to renew my free road tax again. What will happen when the checker says no MOT? The V112, seems to be for doing the tax at the PO, rather than online, there are a number of categories to select for exemption and over 40, IIRC was category, r.

If you fitted a new master cylinder, did you reset the pedal push rod free play?

Slacken off both nuts on push rod either side of pedal arm. Use the stop bolt in the pedal housing to set the pedal height. There should be no load on the rod at this point. Use a pair of pliers to grip rod and make sure its fully out. You can then adjust nut nearest to bulkhead using you fingers to get the free-play needed. Then wedge pedal down, either in cab or with a screwdriver inserted between the pedal arm and pedal box. You can then use a spanner to tighten the "radiator" end nut. Wedging the pedal down whilst you do this ensures the inner nut (and rod) stay put.