simonb

I was pretty sure that that the side boost pin (that is driven the diaphragm), was stuck on my 300Tdi - the 90 was getting slower going up hills on the regular commute. Yesterday I took the cover off, removed the diaphragm and the pin was fully retracted. Hmm, how do I get that out - I was expecting it to pop out when I removed the diaphragm. Squirted with WD40 and left it for a couple of hours and no joy. Cleaned out the WD40 and rather dejectedly stuck it all back together. Googling Bosch FIPs today and looking at sectioned drawings, the pin through the side of the bore seems to be linked to the throttle lever, opening the throttle should move the pin out. Cover off again, moves throttle and after a bit of resistance, a sudden thwack, pin pops out. Pokes it back in with a screwdriver and tries again, this time it comes out more smoothly. Bit of lube and a jiggle and its much better. Tip for refitting diaphragm. Push side pin fully in. Fit diaphragm and then with one finger press down hard on the diaphragm against spring. With other hand and diaphragm still held down, open throttle lever. You should be able to feel the pin hit the diaphragm shaft. At low boost the diaphragm is up and the pin against the widest part of the cone on the shaft so, if the pin is a bit sticky it might not pop out. Its only fully out with high boost and wide open throttle - not an everyday condition. As the pin moves against a spring inside the FIP, the throttle can be open but the pin can still be seized in its bore but still allow full throttle movement - so you don't realise. And yes, it now accelerates up those hills, whereas before it wouldn't.

If you can select all gears normally with engine off, but not with engine running, then its almost certainly clutch problems. If you have "vaugeness" in the gear lever selector gate, it will be the same if the engine is on or off. If this is the case, then again the fix is likely to be minor in the gear stick turret, and again a search on the forum will show how to adjust it.

The cheapest first: 1. Reset clutch pedal freeplay. 2. Change slave and redo 1. 3. Change master (and clutch flexi hose while you are at it) and redo 1. 4. It's then a case of your clutch being worn out - and not releasing allow you to change gear. So replace clutch. 5. If it is 4, change clutch release arm as well. If its 5, they tend to fail completely - with no warning - pedal sticks to floor. Like for 4, its gearbox or engine out to fix. The good news is its more likely to be clutch than gearbox. How to do all of the above are on the forum.

Has the "P" gasket been done on the water pump housing?

Yes, that will work.

Reset the clutch pedal/master cyl pushrod adjustment.

Not familiar with a 110 sender, but on the 90, there is a ring which holds it in, you knock it round on the tabs and it lines up with a cut out in the surround. The ring can then be removed and the sender pulled out. I would have thought 110 tanks would be similar.

Disconnect the wire(s) right at the sender. There may be a single wire or more than one. Connect each one in turn to earth - if more than one wire you may have a low fuel warning lamp. If gauge then shoots up to full, then sender is faulty. If nothing happens then either the wire to the gauge is duff or the gauge itself is duff.

Take the wire off the sender and connect it to earth. If the gauge then works, the sender is at fault.

I did replace the O ring, but don't know the size. See post by sh4kes above which gives a Bosch parts kit. He's in Aus as well.

If the IR thermometer says 83, I would say its electrical on the gauge. The ejector in your 2nd post is really just a glorified T piece to allow the rad and thermostat housing to bleed a little coolant back to the header tank to prevent air bubbles forming. Check its not sludged up. If it was, then the thermostat housing is more likely to collect bubbles as that's the high point, if that happens the thermostat won't be fully immersed and will open late leading to overheating.

Yes, that was something else, but not what missingsid was referring to, and my previous comment, which was the Great Heck derailment.

They went after him as he crashed off a motorway, landed on a railway line and partially derailed a passenger train. A freight train traveling in the opposite direction then hit the derailed passenger train. 10 people were killed and 82 injured. The roadworthyness of the Land Rover was never in doubt, it was the driver who was at blame for not keeping his vehicle on the motorway after being awake all night.

From the official LR WSM.

As mentioned elsewhere, always check the setting of the master push rod as well after changing the clutch: Bottom of pedal must be 140mm from floor and then adjust push rod on master - there needs to be 1.5mm of free play between the end of the rod and cylinder piston. Pedal should be able to be depressed at least 6mm before there is movement of the master cylinder input piston.

I had a similar problem on fitting the same LED lights to a friends Landy - that too had been DIYed on the wiring front. I can't remember exactly how I fixed it in the end but try adjusting "the knob" on the LED flasher unit. I know on the one I fitted, there was an issue with the trailer dash light being on with the indicators and twiddling the knob a bit fixed that. You have got an ignition feed wired up properly as well haven't you?

I would fit a new slave first. Don't fit to bell housing though to bled. Bolt a bar across the end of the cylinder using the mounting holes, let the cylinder hang vertically on the hose and then bled. Remove bar, fit cylinder to bell housing. Bottom of pedal must be 140mm from floor and then adjust push rod on master - there needs to be 1.5mm of free play between the end of the rod and cylinder piston. Pedal should be able to be depressed at least 6mm before there is movement of the master cylinder input piston.

Exactly, reduce the area of the hole, so how can it be more effective in getting more airflow? A far better method to get more "blow on slow" (fan setting) would be to fit one of my heater resistor conversion kits. PM me and forum discount applies (compared to Flea bay).

Or better still, clamp a bar across end of cylinder using the 2 attachment holes - may need to slacken off pipe clips for better access, then bleed. On 90/110s you can let the cylinder dangle vertically by the hose. Remove bar and fit to bell housing.

Well yesterday was a pain with the rain. Gearbox was out after a few hours and there was the broken arm. Old clutch wasn't actually that worn, but I replaced it anyway. Right pain in a&£e getting the gearbox back onto the engine, some long studding helped to line it up given the uneven weight, which makes it twist, but had hell of a job getting it to go the last few inches onto the engine. Eventually lying on my back underneath and pushing on the transfer box with my feet, I got it forward enough to get one of the bottom bolts in. Using a couple of longer bolts I was able to pull the 2 together and then fit the other bolts. All the mechanicals (cross member, exhaust, props) were back in by 6pm last night when I called it quits. This morning it was all the fiddly stuff - transfer linkage, earth straps, floor panels etc. By 9am this morning I was able to start the engine and with a relief, select gears. By 1030 it was all finished and test drive time. Worryingly there was a tinkling sound coming from either the exhaust or transfer box rear. I had heard the same when refitting the props last night. It also seemed to be there when stationary. Another crawl underneath and to my relief I quickly spotted the heatshield on the transfer box mount was touching the metal of the mount. Quick lever away with index finger and all silent. Phew. I had considered cancelling my AA policy as I've only used it twice in 20 years before this, once when I looked myself out and another time when a hire car I had, had no rear lights - blown fuse. In the end I went for a basic policy but did include recovery - thank goodness for that. So clutch change in just about a day with a few hours work either side of that. I need a good lie down!

I have the series 3 for midweek and the 4 mile journey to work. The parts had been bought in preparation for the eventual rebuild on a new galv chassis - so they will be used a bit earlier than planned. It's gear box, back/down on the end of of my engine crane - at least this way its just all nuts and bolts. The engine out method I find is more of a faff as more electrics and fluids are involved. After a couple of hours work tonight, its just the bell housing bolts and gearbox mounts to be undone in the morning. Got a mate coming round to give me a hand - bribing him with (a bit of) alcohol shortly...

Clutch release arm punched through this afternoon whilst I was in Reading on the way back to Salisbury. Drat. Recovery flatbed was there in less than an hour. The 90 is now back at home on the drive, with the tunnel already stripped out, to do it all tomorrow. Luckily I have a replacement clutch in the garage and a reinforced arm, so another weekend fixing it, last weekend it was the cambelt, and its booked for a MOT in Tues.

Just done my 300Tdi belt and yes can confirm it does sound a little more harsh. When fitting the new belt, the old one had stretched as the new one wouldn't fit between the cam and FIP sprocket without slackening the 3 small bolts on the FIP sprocket first. Also, I noticed this and the previous time I changed the belt, a new belt results in a far smaller puff on smoke on start up, than an old belt. Probably as a result of the timing being more "spot on" with a new belt and hence the engine firing quicker and better combustion. I've got the MOT next week, so I'll see if the emissions are improved/reduced.

Just did mine for the 3rd time in 18 years on my 300Tdi. 1st lasted 5 years, 2nd did 13 - I did seal between the bottom plate and tank to keep the moisture out on that one. Did the same on the latest. I am seriously considering investigating getting some plastic tanks made. Yes I know the last 300Tdi and Td5s have behind axle fuel tanks, but there is the faff of the rear cross member, tow hitch stays and my non standard stainless exhaust to deal with.

I usually just leave the belt on first, then crack the centre nut. It was 4 years ago I last did it - will be doing it again soon. Can't remember if there is a way if putting a bar through the sprocket to lock it against the timing chest. You can always put it in gear and get someone to stand on the brakes if all else fails.