simonb

Should be ok, will need to mix and match the spacers behind the pulleys from the 2 alternators to get the V belt pulley aligned. 100A has internal fan so you don't need the fan from the 200TDi one.

You would be leaving a massive oil slick behind if it got bad enough to light the warning light!

I change all of the seals each time I do the belt, too much aggro of taking it all apart again if they fail. Not much oil in the camshaft gallery, but crank seal has more "pressure" behind it. Leave wading plug out, go for a drive and see how much of a trail is left down the front of the sump.....

I suspect its not the stalk but the park switch that is faulty in the motor. It has been covered loads of times on here before, so use the search facility or someone will be along with the clicky soon..

Cam seal, o ring behind crank sprocket and crank oil seal can all be changed without removing the timing chest, therefore no need to remove sump either. Cam sprocket comes off by undoing centre bolt - not 3 small ones. Slacken off centre bolt before removing belt. Sprocket is keyed to camshaft. O ring usually comes off stuck inside crank sprocket when you remove that. You can then hook out crank oil seal. Outer crank seal in timing COVER, is just a press fit in as well.

It needs to be longer than the distance to the furthest wheel box to allow for the arc of the wipe. The furthest wheel box should have a short "dummy tube" on the non motor side to allow the spiral drive to "push past".

If you mean the ST1978M, on my 300Tdi, I used a M3 machine screw around 10mm in length when i replaced the lock barrels - the original screw was all corroded.

If the timing is out on a Tdi it will at best smoke all the time, at worst won't run. I would get the injectors checked first, check compressions 2nd ( or the other way round.. ) and then worry about adjusting the injection pump. Where on the south coast are you?

The horn wiring goes down the left wing, given you have the problem when the lights are also on ( and left indicator), check for failed earth on left wing and or radiator panel. Also given the wiper motor is that side as well, further indicates that you have a failed earth(s) on that side of the vehicle. Your jumper lead trick won't work if all the electrical items are open circuit on the earth side and therefore not connected to the body/earth in the first place - which is what your symptoms point to.

Well folks, you can see my cap is dated 1999. I got it when I last changed the locks shortly after I got my vehicle. I got the genuine parts kit which came with the barrels and matching fuel cap. Almost 15 years on, my drivers door lock has worn out. Nobody on Eblag seems to do a cap and barrel kit and I didn't want 3 keys including the ignition. Another supplier on the interweb does a kit which replaces the steering column lock, so doors and ignition will then match, but that's around £40 and I would still have to have a different key for fuel. 3 suppliers on Eblag show caps with barrels not fitted, but 2 actually say they now come fitted and are not removable and a 3rd isn't sure and they are sold out anyway. Fortunately I had an old gash cap from a "project" that I've yet to start, which the barrel had been drilled out of, so I could measure where the plunger hole was. I also had a spare new barrel - don't know where I got that from... So it was all just a case of some careful measuring and drilling. Couldn't quite believe it when the hole lined up! CwazyWabbit's link shows a cap with different venting arrangements - my gash one was like that - but it still had a barrel like mine that was all metal and not removable - so in typical LR fashion there are at least 3 types out there. I can't think that a TD5 cap is that different - any "broken" donations for surgery gratefully received!

How to replace the lock barrel on a Defender fuel cap – pre TD5. Remove filler cap and turn over, remove 2 screws and plate Remove lock bar – may be a circular spring beneath this – remove that as well. Big rubber washer around casting should lift off. Remove big spring washer. You should now have this. With the L on the casting towards you, look underneath at the key slot – the “scallop” next to the slot should be on your left. If it is proceed onwards. If its not lock barrel is in “other way round” and you will need to drill casting opposite to what I describe next. Remove 2 screws from casting plate and it will come away from the plastic outer housing. Place casting in vice, as shown, L on plate needs to be facing up in vice - or down if scallop wasn't on left. Centre punch casting 5mm from indent as shown. Drill 2mm hole, - see also next picture, there are 2 “walls” to drill through. Do this slowly, it should be obvious when the drill touches the barrel assembly. You can put key back in and peer down the drilled hole and rotate the barrel – you can see when you are through. When all the way through, re-drill out hole to 2.5mm. When through, insert key back in, you should only need to rotate the barrel around 10-20 degrees and you will see a dark spot line up with the hole. That is the release plunger. Insert 2mm drill through hole and press in plunger, the back cap should then fall off (onto the floor!) You should be left with this: Using a small screwdriver press plunger on end of barrel in and using key withdraw barrel. Hey presto. Assembly is the reverse procedure. Once you have the barrel back in, the cap which drives the lock bar should just press in. Put a dab of sealant over the holes you have drilled to maintain the venting of the cap. If you find when its all back together, the key doesn’t turn, you have fitted the lock bar on the wrong way round, just fit it from the other side. Mods - one for the tech archive I think!

Like bottom/3rd pic, the metal sheet stops the outer moving, cable inner goes direct to the flap in the dash, there isn't anything on the flap to secure the outer.

Does it run at all or does it fire and cut out? Mine did the latter to start with and I had the linkage a fraction out on the spindle. When I set it up correctly/properly it was fine. I would have another go at that before adjusting any of the speed screws. It was a bit of a fiddle IIRC. I also marked across the spindle with a fine marker pen - mobile phones had rubbish cameras back then! Just stuck my head under the bonnet (freezing out there), the idle screws press on part of the spindle linkage, so if its fine when you adjust the screw, that would suggest that you do indeed have it slightly out on the splines.

I used a cheap number plate light from a motor factors (or use a series 3 one) mounted to the windscreen frame and a toggle switch.

Yes, reset master cylinder and it should be better, especially since you have chaged the slave as well.

Normally it should clear without any issue, but you have a 100A alt - standard for defender 300TDi is 65A.

P38s normally had a Borg Warner transfer box so the output shaft and rear housing will be different. May also be different selector. Also not sure what the ratios are in the BW box, they may not match LT230 ones. Didn't the P38s also have Land Rover V8s of 4 and 4.6L? I thought BMW engines only were fitted to Rangies when the replacement model to the P38 came out in 2002 or whatever year it was..

A30 into Salisbury from Porton/Firsdown direction blocked by lorries and cars unable to get up and down the hills - 4" of snow, not helped by extra traffic due to A303 shut at Amesbury both directions for a while. I went out for a drive ( on my v worn ATs..) no problems even on the hills on the minor roads. Get to see sights like this going the back way to the A36 and M27 to avoid the jam into Salisbury. The other thing that really winds me up is car drivers approaching T junctions too fast, locking wheels and heading straight for your passenger door as you try and get out of the way. GRRR.

It can be done but you need another 2nd relay as well as the intermittent one. If you are ok with electrics, PM me your email address and i'll dig out the circuit diagram from when i did mine 15 years ago..I think I swapped the original wiper switch to a fan one to give 2 ONs, the first is int , 2nd is normal speed ( I only have single speed wipers). Another push putton for squirt..

The way i do it is, connect flexi hose to slave, unbolt slave from bell housing. Connect piece of flat bar across end of pushrod hole and secure using 2 long bolts through the slave cylinder mounting holes. Let it all dangle vertically under vehicle, bleed nipple will then be at top - bleed system. Its also worth noting that following a clutch change, master or slave cyl change, the master cylinder push rod free play at the pedal box will need adjusting.

Your problem 1 sounds like what I had a few years back - dodgy lift pump, internal valves leaking. Check your battery voltage, engine and all electrics off, should be at least 12.6v, ideally 13v. If right on 12.6V or less, battery is knackered.

On 300Tdi, when facing the engine, the pipe on right, at the physical top of rad is hot water in, pipe below is cold water out. On a cross flow rad, like any rad, bottom of rad is nearest the floor, and top of rad is nearest the bonnet....

300Tdi in at top, cooling tubes are horizontal so flows right to left when facing engine, header tank on pipe side has a baffle half way down, so it only flows R-L in top half off tubes, then through oil cooler in other header tank and back L-R in lower section.

Shifted camshaft bearings in the block, especially the rear one, can cause lack of oil pressure in 2.25/2.5 engines of all types....I don't believe there is any easy way to check though without removing the camshaft. That spring looks more likely to have come off a cheap pen than out of part of the engine though!

Not all the TD5 bulkheads had that revised bracket. My new TD5 bulkhead I've got for galvanising doesn't have it and has the earlier wiper motor mounts. Not sure what year it changed.