JeffR

Can recommend learning to weld - spent way too many hours welding the family Disco back together, as for buying a mig, do not buy a Sip ( bought one a while ago and it was useless, poor quality, chinese made junk) have a look at the Eastwood Mig 175, bought one a few year back and it does what it says on the box. Probably wouldn't cope with heavy usage , but it's affordable and comes with lots of useful bits. http://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-175-mig-welder-with-spool-gun.html

Did the capping on a Station Wagon a few years back, you can repair them quite easily, but you really need to take them off to do it. I found that one side was repairable, whilst tother side was totalled - the rust you can see will not be all of the rust!

Once had a very slight kink in a brake pipe (copper/cunifer can't remember which) which caused exactly the same symptoms, was hardly noticeable to the eye

Having just seen how much the equivalent Bearmach rack would cost to replace the one in the shrubbery, this weekends job is definitely to remove it from the shrubbery!

Check the engine bay grommets and look for a rot hole where the inner wings join the bulkhead, also the part of the bulkhead that forms the wheel arch and the grommet that the steering column runs thro. These are your starter for 10....... The bits I found are in this topic - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=83395&hl=jordan

Of all the problems we've had with L394, only had one minor problem with the handbrake! Cable seized day before the MOT, so took it off (grossly unpleasant job without a pit/lift) un-seized it, bunged it back on , well it's still working. Even bought a new cable which is sitting in the spares box and has been for a couple of years. Mind you, I do (whenever I'm under the car) loosen off and readjust the handbrake, seems like a false economy not too.

OH so bloody true.......

Been running a plastic job in the family hack (200 Tdi disco) for the best part of 2 years with absolutely no problems

That reminds me, must dig out the 110's roof rack from the shrubbery and re-furb it!

I'll third that

I have been trying to solve the same for the past two years! I can greatly reduce the severity, but never quite get rid of it - everything has been replaced/re-newed. At the moment, steering wobble is noticeable, but not concerning, I now wonder if it had/has something to do with the front propshaft, been running around in rear wheel drive since before Christmas (front prop fell apart) and haven't been able to put new prop on due to health issues.

We had identical issues with a 200 Tdi Disco, changed lift pump - failed, changed fuel filter- failed, eventually tracked it down to being a porous joint in the fuel line from the tank to the injector pump and a slack jubilee clip. Replaced the fuel lines with 8mm copper and all has been fine ever since.

Ventilated discs and mud simply do not mix!My two 110s, the V8 has vented discs up front as we used to fade the brakes out badly when touring in the Lake district, it's a family hack that don't really venture off road. The other 110 used to do massive amounts off road and has good old solid discs, even when "pressing on" (I am guilty of , well, spirited driving on occasion) never faded them out. Stick with solid discs and a decent brand of pads.

Partially my fault, surgery last year left me with only one functional arm, I keep forgetting that I do not heal as quickly as I did when younger, hence it got a bit neglected, throw in some counterfeit parts, bad weather, bad luck, lack of cash,a bout of depression and three months of painkiller induced haziness....... And..... Bobs now your Uncle/Aunt/Nephew and Cousin! I'll get the bugger sorted - still running it in 2WD, haven't got much strength in my left arm so replacing the front prop (which I also stubbed my toe on this afternoon) has become a bit of a trial. If you do decide to return to the UK, bare in mind the cost of living "Up North" is much less and the scenery is absolutely stunning, people are canny too.

A very long time ago we used air powered guns for bearings on conveyors - great till they break, then man they spread grease from pole to bloody pole! My favourite grease gun is a little brass 1950's one handed thing (I inherited it) that just does prop UJs and is bullet proof

Yeah and at present I need the Wee Free Men to batter this Disco to death for me. Then I can burn it, sprinkle holy water on the ashes and bury them in consecrated ground....

NO NO NO, they are not made of stale processed cheese. They are made of that congealed stuff that comes in squirt bottles and is loosely referred to as Cheese Flavoured spread...

You only think you have, for your sanity kill the Disco in the most violent, slow way possible, then burn it, cover the ashes in Holy Water, bury in in consecrated ground and dance on the bloody grave. Retire to the nearest hostelry, get wasted and attempt to forget that LR ever built the 200 Tdi Disco.... Guess who is having a bad day with Discos

I want to start this year again whilst having last year erased from my bloody memory. A warning light buzzer is already on the cards, however as the vehicle is now, apparently allergic to electricity...

I want to start this year again whilst having last year erased from my bloody memory. A warning light buzzer is already on the cards, however as the vehicle is now, apparently allergic to electricity...

So the battery went flat, wife left the bloody headlights on, again. So out with the starter pack, a nice 900 amp jobbie, only to find that it's gone flat, leaves it on charge overnight along with battery and guess what neither are holding a charge. Borrows a battery and that too goes flat, starting to get a wee bit concerned , so borrows a multimeter (mine is still buggered and can't afford a new one), bump starts the Disco (not an easy job with a gravel drive - wife and kids now REALLY hate me), anyway gets the thing started to find that the alternator is spitting out between 11 and 12 volts at F1 level revs, spare alternator is goosed.... I tell you, the bar steward who is sticking pins in the wax effigy of me has to either be running out of space or pins

For my sins I once bought a new Suzuki Grand Vitara (imagine sound effects of spitting, loudly) which tried to kill us numerous times (including a 720 degree spin in the fast lane of the M5) so back it went to the stealers, over a period of 2 years or so , they had it more than we did. Work loads meant I didn't have time to really argue, then after the M5 incident (wife was 8 1/2 months pregnant) I kinda lost it, big time. Suzukis attitude was "if you think you have a problem, we suggest you take legal advice..." I offered them it back as a suppository, covered in carborundum paste...

Bergen, not bad, but a set of three step drills bought from Aldi a good while ago are brilliant! Cost less than a tenner. Similarly Aldi do a metric tap and die set (complete with correct cobalt clearance drills) for £15 - the drills are worth the price alone.

A few years back I experimented with repairing a wheel arch eyebrow. Tried all sorts of glues and solvents, most failed miserably, however I did find a gel , solvent based glue used for joining plastic pipes that worked - tin got holed and binned when I moved house so cannot remember what it was. I got it from a plumbing supplies shop. The liquid ones were too volatile to make a decent bond, whereas the gel didn't. Other way that works is plastic welding using a hot air gun and a sliver of wheel arch cut from elsewhere, but you have got to be very careful with the heat.

Having used YRM bits (and met the owner - really nice guy and VERY knowledgable) I can only say their parts are of the highest quality. Actually made a change to buy bits that fitted!