Ed Poore

I found the IID Tool did everything I wanted of it. Some codes just came up with a code but a little bit of Googling would usually throw up what the code was and suggested fixes.

Too many listed in there...

Opposite of me then. Drove a friend's P38 with the straight 6 diesel (manual) and didn't like it (didn't find it very torquey and had to rev the nuts off it to do anything). Don't like the Nissan straight 6 in the 6x6 either. That's hopefully being swapped out for a 6.2 (probably) or 6.5 (maybe) V8 diesel .

More work but the TDV8 setup (6HP26X and Magna Steyr DD295 transfer box) does have the front prop to the left hand side and the rear is more or less central. So at least the correct orientation for a P38. Here's a picture looking forwards towards the engine bay under a TDV8. Front prop you can see is to the left off the sump whilst the rear is just visible in the dark above the earth strap and above the insulation. Remember this was fully independent suspension so the front and rear props don't really move with respect to the vehicle.

I've got a feeling I've seen somewhere an adapter for (I think) the 5HP to LT230. With regards to the 6HP I think (online research only, never took one out when I had the TDV8) there is a subtle difference between the 6HP26 and the 6HP26X as fitted behind the 4.2 supercharged and 3.6 TDV8s. The X suffix was to denote external 4WD and as such the rear of the box is built in such a way that you can easily bolt on an external transfer box. Where I'm not sure if there's a difference is it looks like the X version has an internal rather than the more classical external spline on the output shaft. Basically meaning that the transfer box then provides the shaft bit to slot inside the gearbox. It's I suppose a slightly nicer way around because it means you can have a thin adapter plate and a custom shaft that goes between, say, a 6HP26X and an LT230 without having to re-machine either the LT230 input gear or the gearbox output shaft.

Who cares about the silly body kit. What engine?

PM inbound

I've got a friend () down here who I suspect would probably be able to do it and knowing him for not a lot. He's popping over on Sunday to look at some work for me so if I remember I can ask the question. Certainly got the tools to do it - he skimmed the head of my sister's Td5 in a single pass on one of his smaller mills .

If it's of any interest I have a 4HP24 with transfer box (and controller as well I think) from a 4.6 sat not very far from a ferry terminal to Ireland... A friend was talking of doing the Atlantic Way at some point and I've never been to Ireland.

I think the first / main thing you'll want to narrow down is what you're trying to get out of it? Are you doing it for the engineering aspects or are you wanting to build to vehicle to use? Since you have your head screwed on correctly (or at least appear to) I think if you're trying to achieve the latter then you may be best off looking at "equivalent" builds that are proven. An extreme example but for example for building an off-road vehicle then you could use Ultra4 / Trophy Truck as a basis, i.e. if it survives that abuse then it's likely to survive the abuse you'd give it. But then you can apply your sensible hat and determine that a 4" chromoly reinforced trailing arm is likely to be overkill for a vehicle that doesn't exceed 10mph so perhaps better off looking at, say, a Defender as a basis for sizing components. If you're doing it more for the engineering aspects then from my brief knowledge of what goes on in equipment design it's mostly down to experience, rigorous testing and to a certain extent simulation these days. It may be worth seeing whether you can have a chat with people involved in this kind of stuff, @discomikey springs to mind and @RedLineMike (although the latter I suspect is build it as strong as possible because we're gonna break it at some point!). You could take a punt and phone up Caterham or Ricardo and see whether anyone's interested in a friendly chat. I've got a friend in Spain who works / used to work for Análisis y Simulación in Vitoria Gasteiz who loves nothing better than to sit down number crunching in Excel designing bikes. We built some data loggers and strain gauges built into the hubs of Formula 3000 cars so that they could record what was going on around circuits. Slightly scarily the logger could tell you how much your little finger was deflecting this solid block of aluminium. Got another friend who works for Ilmore Engineering who I suspect might be able to pass on some useful information about whether there's anything to read up on.

Fairly sure it's a tapered fitting so as long as its snug it shouldn't leak.

I have one of these sets https://www.screwfix.com/p/milwaukee-mixed-shockwave-bit-set-24-pieces For the first time ever, a few days ago, I wore out / broke a tip in 4 odd years of having the set. Ah just realised doesn't have the "driver" bit but I've got the Milwaukee 1/4" impact driver separately. The bits are good though, the little driver has actually managed to take off the odd wheel nut* too which is slightly ridiculous. They claim 226Nm from the updated model and unlike most cheaper ones I expect it'll deliver it. *most of the time I use the far more sensible 1500Nm impact... Although I see the current model is now closer to 2000Nm. It failed for the first time at undoing an M24 bolt on the neighbours topper last weekend. Mind you that I think that was more due to a not perfect fit on the spanner on the nut. It did dig a hole in the tarmac before the nut rounded off.

They're a small local outfit but I've yet to find anyone (even online) to better the price offered by Narberth Tyres here in Pembrokeshire when I've had tyres fitted. Might be worth a call just as a reference point? On the brand subject I've only had BFGs fitted to the Defender. Can't remember what it came with but when my sister sold her 90 I swapped wheels and tyres over. They were the original KOs, I then replaced them with two sets of KM2s which have covered about 100k between them, the last set went on about 30k ago. I've not yet managed to wear out the tread yet on a set. The KOs started sagging due to age, the first KM2s still have about 6-8mm of tread but due to a hard life offroading the sidewalls had got slashed to kingdom come. They're a painful lump to swallow but when I balance the mileage they achieve vs cost they work out the cheapest by a long way. I've driven a friends P38 with the same size (265/75R16) Cooper STT Pros on both on and off road. Off they were OK but really didn't get on with them on damp roads, felt loose as hell. There were a couple of brown seat moments and I wasn't pushing it hard at all. On the L322 I had everyone had ranted and raved over General Grabbers and at the time they were basically the only all terrain option I had. I don't think I covered 30k over two sets . Either they exploded offroad or the sidewalls cracked and collapsed. It's put me off General Tires completely. Goodyear then came out with the Duratrac Wranglers which were night and day, did about 40k on those before I sold the vehicle were much better off road too.

If I remember correctly the cross-linking is only on each "axle" rather than between front and rear. Had a quick scan through the L322 workshop manual and there's no mention of cross-linking between axles but there is mention of "front cross-link valve" which implies to me that it's only between the axles.

No just mad

Surely you've answered your own question here? 🤷‍♂️ I've always had BFG, one set of KOs and two sets of KM2s over the past 13 years and 150kish. The KOs were already into the 50k mark when they went on the 110. Only time I've driven with Coopers were on a friends P38 and by comparison I found them quite skittish on the road in the wet. Not sure if it was the vehicle or the tyres but wasn't impressed. Thats my personal take on the matter. Found the KM2s wear very well for a mud pattern, only swapped mine out because age and scarring from off road. There was a reasonable amount of tread still left on them (probably comparable to most all terrains news).

Not sure but if it gets you out of an emergency. One flip side is the only punctures or flats I've ever had have been off road so a space saver would have been possible but annoying. Mind you never had to put the spare on the Defender, the L322 on the other hand... I had a nail in one tyre that was arguably quite close to the limit on sidewall depending on where you measured it (KM2s so a big difficult to define tread since it has it on the side wall). After a few garages didn't want to repair it I thought what the hell I'd try a plug. Worked well despite being cautious to begin with.

BMW I thought. Ford took over afterwards by about 2006 because they brought out the TDV6 and TDV8 engines about then.

I did like that too. Makes me think about building a little device that plugs in behind the lights on a normal Defender for the same purpose.

I too explored this option but only driving around the garden / driveways at home. I've got a 265/75R16 and despite the much higher seats in mine (the L322) ones I found it severely restricted visibility. I've had an either Paddocks or Mantec (possibly Paddocks made by Mantec) swing away carrier on the back door for 15 years now. It bolts onto the tub and cross member so most of the weight is bourne by that. After my father crashed the Argo into the back door in Scotland it's been rattling and squeaking. A few days ago I found he'd cracked the door frame so welded that up and readjusted the latch. Adjusting the latch made a huge difference so if yours hasn't been done in a while it might be worth doing as it might be out of alignment as things wear. Only bit I need to do is make a "bump" stop as there's play in the wheel carrier hinge now and I can't be bothered to drill it all out and make up new bushes.

I'd not heat it up. That'd speed up any rusting and corrosion. If possible take the BECM out and dump it in silica beads. Or the cheap man's alternative is a bucket of rice... Not sure how that might do down with the wife but... Once you've got as much water out as you can then you could heat it up gently to finish off.

Buy and sell on?

He asked whether it was possible, not (at least my understanding) that he really must use the original loom. Obviously anything is possible it just depends on how much effort you want to go to.

I think the general consensus is it's too much work because all the ECUs talk to each other and the BECM will throw a hissy fit. Simplest option appears to be to fit a Megasquirt kit - @FridgeFreezer is your man for advice on that front.

Bugger, does this mean I've got to up my game from last time and bring a 4x4, 6x6 and 8x8? Incidentally the Argo is running much better now. And there might have been a little progress on the stupid sized V8 plans for the 6x6, a candidate bell housing as been found that might work. It's not the ideal one but with a little modification it will work apparently. Just need lock-down to ease and then I can do an eastwards trip to collect bits