sgnas

About 4 years ago me and a mate went to look at a 90 (blue, in Swindon, with a 300tdi conversion) from an ebay advert. Managed, without tools, to make a hole in the chassis big enough to get my fist in

Print yoursef some headed notepaper and a business card

The mounting tabs on the standard bumber are not particularly thick. I would be hoping they were the weak point in the accident. The accident may have been sub 15mph. Any faster and with that rapid deceleration, hitting an imoveable object, your mate would have left his teeth in the steering wheel. The dilema is Tell insurance, investigate, find no damage, make no claim, but the insurance still class you as have had an accident. Investigate, find no damage, all hunky dory. Investigate, find damage, make claim, get the runaround from insurers

I know that method. Does it work on M8 steel though? But if I could get that tool £20 quid cheaper it would be a bargain. I don't think the ones that look like a "squeeze" hand rivetter are man enough, or rather I may not be man enough to squeeze them! The normal long arm version are about £120

I found this tool and it looks fairly good value. Any one seen it in action or cheaper?

The "cheap" TD5 bulkhead fiddle has been well and truly closed by Landrover. They are now £800-900 new! I've just got a slightly damaged, but otherwise good 300tdi bulkhead to replace the one on my '89 90.

Spot on! In the side, out the front, through 180, and off to the back axle.

It is pretty likely that the standard loom only carries the 12n part. My dad had to buy the 12s kit (like western's link) for his D2 on a 53 plate.

On Monday we had 10-12" of snow and a stranded artic at work. The driver and 2 of our guys hand cleared nearly 400m2. Did the bus drivers clear their yard or make snowmen and play snowballs? And all those moaning their pavement and side road has not been cleared, get a shovel call your neighbours and get on with it!

You can take camping gas but only up to a certain quantity. You have to declare it and they check the cylinders.

I just book it on as a car over 1.85m as do all my mates. Think of an MPV with a roof box. Your 90 will be smaller! The only thing they did not like was my mate towing his 110 on with his 90. Insisted it had to move under it's own power, fun 'cos the clutch was gone!

More than 8" in Farnborough, Hampshire. I have a 40 mile trip and it only took and extra 15mins. All the locals have phoned in, so there's only 3 of us!

You MAY need a license to operate ANY chainsaw in a public area!

Yep, seen that too as it turns up in a "local" ebay search. Judging from the condensation I guess it does not hold water out too well.

The only reason to chequerplate a rear crossmember is to hide corrosion! However, I think he has missed a trick. Surely the "Defender" stripes could be replicated in chequerplate.

Need to replace th BH outriggers ,esp. as I've now cut part of one off. What do you do about the bracket that links the outrigger to the radius arm bracket? Do you cut it flush with the outrigger and then extend it to the new outrigger? I've cut the outrigger round it but now it is two layers of metal thick and that might interfere fitting it to the new one. Oddly only the top, front and back in the 1st 3 inches have any corrosion! There it is straight through but 4" from the bolt it's full thickness with only light surface corrosion Due to the access, I'm planning on cutting a good straight edge on the existing outrigger, cutting the new to suit. Then either overlapping (if possible) with some extra rose welds or butt with a couple of extra plates added front and rear.

Hmmm. Is this the kind of build that when it is finished takes many sleepless nights to work out the operational characteristics? They take years to finish off!

I always went that fast, but the wheels were only changed a week or two before. I made sure the police turned up (the cars blocking the road....honest) so if necessary they could back me up on road conditions. I had "nearly" rescued it all but the nearside front clipped the high curb, mullered the suspension/steering and sent me spinning the other way round. After that I was only a passenger until the car stopped. If I had spun off in the original direction it was a 40ft drop to the cemetery grounds

The company fitting may insist they go ont the back as the guidelines say it is safer. The reasoning being that most cars are front wheel drive. Fitting new tyres to the front and (worst case) on the limit ones on the back gives you a vehicle that can oversteer as opposed to the natural understeer of the front wheel drive vehicle. This makes the vehicle handling not predictable and thus less safe than having the partworn on the front. Many years ago I crashed and wrote off a vehicle, one of the contributing factors was massive oversteer (from low tread rear tyres) when I backed of the throttle. The front dug in and the back slid and overtook the front. The other contributing factors were it was wet, leaves on the road, and I was going WAY too fast. That said, if the tyres were less than half worn I'd still stick the new ones on the front I'm fairly certain that if you have a 4wd and only one set of snow chains you are supposed to fit them to the rear, presumably for the same reasons.

My newest (1yr old) set of BFG ATs have this symbol. I was suprised to see it! Ought to check an older set as I don't remember seeing it before

BBc has an update

I've got a '89 90. EVERY wire I've looked for has been the correct colour according to the manual(s). I think you can buy complete looms for not much money. Might be easier than trying to trace faults. My friend used to have a series II. About 50% of it had been rewired, ALL in the same colour (red)

MY- Model Year NOS - New Old Stock (in other applications)

You can drill the rivets and take the matrix out. Drill the front and sides of the hump, then lever the rest to the back (you will not get a drill to the back) With some jigling you'll get the matrix out. Loads easier than taking the box out (for a start it's only a one man job this way) Worth having a go even if you still end up taking the whole lot out as you still need to drill it ou anyway! EDIT. Whoops, Ryans pic is of the plastic matrix. I'm suprised that does not come out if you just undo the screws

I had one in my '89 TD and that was OK, just had to stay below 50mph to hear it Also had one in a softop car, just needed to keep the mic out of a draghty area. The one in the 300tdi works ok upto motorway speed so it should be even better with the newer (quieter) vehicles.