duncmc

It is possible if you have replaced the ECU that you have replaced it with another faulty ECU. I take it that was second hand? That would not account for the mirrors not working though. Does your car have the memory electric seats? If so, the mirrors are operated through the memory seat ecu under the drivers seat. They have a small Ni Cd battery which leaks onto the circuit corroding the tracks and damaging the pins on one of the chips stopping it working. If your car is a 1992 model year it should have the memory seats, and if it is the above, have a look at how I repaired my seat ecu here; http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=82184&page=1 For the rear window, have you tested to see if you have power at the rear door switch? Faulty door switch maybe? or wiring?

No offence taken. I see what you mean now, if a whole tube has been used or a huge gob of it.

Blue Hylomar is a Land Rover specified sealant used on the plenum chamber and inlet manifold to seal the surfaces together on the EFI engines. I have nothing against it for such use.

Have you got a leak from the pipe somewhere along it length? It could then be dripping from the pipe and running somewhere else, maybe even pooling in an area, or absorbed into some sound proofing on the bulkhead?

Other things could be shock absorbers, spring mounts, chips on the windscreen in the drivers line of vision, and seat belts. Well they are things I always try to check anyway beforehand. Good luck.

Not all of the steering boxes have that hole on the back to drop a bolt into to centre it Mine doesn't. On those you just have to turn the wheel full look one way, making sure the tyre isn't hitting the radius arm or the lock stop isn't limiting travel. Then count turns to full opposite lock. And count halfway back for the centre. Not as good, but that's what LR say to do. LR then say to do a final centre of the steering wheel assuming everything else is right by pulling the steering wheel off itself, and moving that.

Know the feeling. I will have to let one of mine go soon.

I had this a month or so ago. In my case a cable had come loose and wrapped itself around the steering column under the bonnet. Have you looked under there, and at your linkages? Maybe something is trapped somewhere.

When I have had trouble getting my viscous fan off, I have jammed an old T shirt or rag underneath the fan belt. That stops the pulley spinning so you can get more leverage on the spanner. Good luck.

The link you have posted is removing an LT230 transfer box from a Land Rover Defender, and is very different from your 1993 Range Rover which has a Borg Warner transfer box. If you can find a link to Rave online somewhere it will show you in there all the steps need to remove the transfer box on your car. I know that the front exhaust section and the gearbox crossmember has to come off, as well as the transmission brake.There is probably a link to Rave somewhere on the forum but I couldn't quickly find it. What is it in your picture that is in the way? I can't make it out. Welcome to the forum by the way from a fellow 1993 RRC owner!

Another link, with a bit about an aluminium base, and this could be the base for the base for both Jaguars and Land Rovers. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-24018350

About a month ago, Jaguar Land Rover announced that it was to build a new range of lightweight aluminium sports cars at Solihull. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/industry/10297447/Jaguar-Land-Rover-to-create-1700-UK-jobs-to-build-sports-cars.html When I heard that story I suspected that it wouldn't be long before we heard of the end of the Defender. Lode Lane doesn't have space for an extra production line so one of the current ones has to go.....and it was bound to be the old Defender. This will be the real reason, not the emissions. The interesting bit, is could the new Defender replacement be based on the lightweight Jag? Maybe?

Good news! The dizzy was probably out too much to allow it to spark at the right point the first time you put it in.

I feel your pain. Been there, done that thing. I have thought I had a good spark in the past, but my relatively new ignition coil had packed up. Replaced that, and away it went. It should run even if the timing is quite a way out, it'll just be rough. I once replaced my dizzy, but got it 180 degrees out or something so that the spark wasn't occurring on the compression stroke, but on the exhaust stroke. Are you sure you have it fitted correctly? I would check that too. The other thing I can think of, is have you got high enough fuel pressure? A failed fuel pump won't give enough fuel to start, but petrol does still get through, so will wet the plugs. I had that one recently. If you carefully break a fuel line you should get fuel squirting out a lot. Even better is to use a fuel pressure gauge, or use the Rovergauge software to see if you have a low fuel pressure fault code. It could be coincidence that it just died on LPG, but you have a fuel pump problem too. Can you make your LPG system start on LPG only? Good luck.

I always found my 300tdi 90 to be fairly slow, even when it was nearly new. I got it when it had about 20,000 miles on it and it was 1 year old. By today's standards, especially modern diesel cars, there are very slow. I thought the same with my 3.9 Classic when I got one again, but then realised it is just that everything else has got so much faster. In the end, I fitted an Allisport Intercooler and tweaked the fuel pump on the 90. It was then a lot quicker, but I still don't think that it would have been as quick as your Audis. The 300tdi as stock was 111.3 BHP and 195 ft/lb of torque. The 90 weighs about 1800kg and is as aerodynamic as a brick. The 2.0Tdi A6 has 175BHP and 280 Ft/lb's of torque, and its kerb weight is 1575kg. It does 0-60 in 8.7 secs, and that is the smaller engine!

Breather ok, not blocked? On the transfer box.

I run a couple of ex-mondeo air-con fans instead of my viscous fan on my RRC 3.9. The fans come on every day at some point. Usually that is in town sat at traffic lights. That happens every day, even in winter, ok maybe not when its -10 or whatever, but most days they are on. The only downside to mine is that they are noisy and I would like some quieter ones.

Definately one for YRM, if they could do them. I have phoned them for my RRC but they don't currently do them. Good further info that D12MUD, I am in a very similar situation having been told all sorts of dates too. I think that clinches it for now though on mine. I will just weld up what I have to get it through an MOT for now.

I haven't had this problem, well not yet anyway. I did mine with 40A relays too, don't think mine are Bosch though. I bought them from Vehicle Wiring Products.

I was going to make my own press, but just haven't got round to it yet.

That's how I did it when I first changed bushes 18 years ago. Strapped the suspension parts to my bike and cycled to the garage for each suspension part. They then used their press.

When I had my 300 TDi 90 I changed all mine without a press or without taking bits to a garage. And I have just finished doing the front of my Range Rover Classic using the same method. I just get the centre tube out with a blow torch. Then cut though the rubber and steel outer with a hack saw. Then knock the old bush out. The new bush can then be pushed in with a good sturdy vice or drawn in with high tensile bolts and washers. It helps to put the new bush in the freezer for a few hours first. You don't need a press. It is just easier.

That's a good idea/tip. I will bear that in mind for the future. Thanks.

Whenever I have used ones with nyloc nuts, when undoing the nut, about half way down I have found the ball joint to spin, and then the nuts doesn't go any further. This is usually because the threaded portion rusts a bit. Even if the track rod end wasn't scrap at that time, it is by the time I have managed to get the nut off. Even it I do get the nut off, it happens trying to get the new nyloc on.

Has it got the alarm ultrasonic sensor in the headlining near the rear view mirror? They can go kerput. I had a similar thing with my 1993 when I got it, changing that part for another second hand one did the trick.