duncmc

You should booth be flogged and put in the stocks! That is sacrilege!

Thanks both. Something to think about then. I am favouring buying the exhaust system as it is and hoping that the rear sections just bolt up to my current cat Y piece and if not go from there. He is asking less than a mild middle box and tail section anyway.

Hi everyone. I have always fancied the idea of one day having a megasquirted V8, but for now I have a question that I think I know the answer to....I just want to ask the more learned people out there. Right, so I have a 1993 Range Rover with a Lucas EFi 3.9 which has an exhaust cat system from the factory. Its still off the road for a while longer yet. If I fit a tubular manifold and stainless exhaust it will fail an MOT because of the newish regs not having a cat fitted when it should. I could fit a "mock" cat, but then it would fail on emissions I suspect. However if i fitted megasquirt as well I could run a leaner map for the MOT to make sure it passes.........am I right with my thinking? Its just my exhaust looks poor from the Y section back, and somebody locally has a full stainless system at a very good price. I'm thinking buy it, and try to fit the middle and rear sections to the front cat y section. If it doesn't fit go megasquirt.

If I was you, I would carefully check the rest of the cross member. If it is just the ends that have gone, and provided they are not too bad, I would repair it rather than replace because it is a lot easier.

Yes you can buy that section. It is the rear body cross member. Its a pig to fit. They are available from several places in the UK. When I did my last car it came with the car when I bought it so I didn't buy one. YRM also make it in the UK. http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/BT3575.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3575/Products/030/SubProducts/030-0001 On my last car I had to do the whole cross member. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69483 see post #45. On my current car I was just able to repair the area because it wasn't too bad. see this post #16 onwards. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=82184&page=3 Edit....I got the links the wrong way round for my cars.

I'd go for the sunroof, blocked drain tube maybe, or the seals gone?

I'm sorry to read that Reggie. I can't help with what it's worth. However, I would say definately get it MOT'd first as its not only going to sell better, but be worth more that way. Good luck.

Been there and done this myself too when I had my first 300tdi many years ago, doing the cambelt. I bought a new pulley assembly, and it was an expensive mistake. I dropped it I think!

Hi, Yes there should be a fuse, and a fuel pump relay I would have thought. What year car is it? And carbs or Efi? I recently had this problem on my Range Rover Classic, and the old fuel pump had blown one of the fuses when it gave up.

Same here. We have a few old bins in the garage that we keep old packaging in. Foam, bubble wrap, cardboard boxes etc. I think owning LandRovers doesn't help....we just collect stuff! Wheel rims, wheels and tyres, engines, cyclinder heads, radiators, alternators, belt tensioners, air con pumps, gear boxes, steering wheels, wings panels, doors. locks..........it just might come in useful! My wife thinks I have another car in there in bits! Hmmm, haven't got any axles yet! I am such a sorry case that I am even watching an intercooler on eBay for a Defender TD5, and I haven't even got one.

I have used MaxxRaxx on D3's and Range Rover classics. Can mount up to 5 bikes, and pivots down for access into boot on those. There is a version with a cranked upright that I would think should fit round the spare. This is the 2 bike version. http://www.maxxraxx.co.uk/bike_racks_car_cycle_carriers_products/info_4x4_max2_flange.html

I like that! Very nice! I want one.

Hmm, didn't read all of it did I.

The engine Code 25D is a 3.9 EFi auto RRC engine according to this http://www.v8register.net/FilesV8/V8%20engine%20number%20reference%20R7%2030.11.07.pdf

It would be painted Blue then, so this picture must have been taken before the sponsorship deal.

Looks like a 4 wheel drive Chitty Chitty Bang Bang! Wonder if it flies too?

I had this sort of thing happen on my last classic. The switch fell apart one night on the drive so the following morning it wouldn't start. As you found, I found that a new switch was needed because even after reassembly and crimping it together better, it lost the return so the starter ran until the key was turned back a notch. You are correct, you will not need to change the barrel so you can keep the same key.

I changed mine with the car in my garage ay home and its starighforward. For a mechanic it should be even easier. Especially if he has access to a lift. Have a look at blog. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=82184&page=3 the viscous coupling is from post 58 onwards. Down at the bottom of the page.

The original LandRover workshop instructions included a round of doing this with ALL bleed nipples with the ignition left on so that the pressure circuit is at full pressure. It is the procedure in RAVE.

Are you doing this with the ignition turned on? The modulator block has valves in it that are electrically operated.

When I swapped a master cylinder over on the last Classic I had with ABS, I struggled too. I went through a lot of fluid. I found I was following the workshop procedures, but got stuck when I tried to get fluid out of the front NS caliper circuit that is supplied by the ABS pump. I can't remember which that is from the top of my head. I found that it would only bleed when the ignition was on. It took several runs round the whole procedure to get a good pedal, and lots of fluid.

Congratulations! I can't wait to get mine on the road, I am hoping by the end of the year. Re your viscous coupling, I would talk to Paul. I know he uses someone who reconditions them, cheaper than a new one I think from memory. I did discuss it with him at one of the RRR meetings. I already had a second hand unit to fit on mine so I didn't go down that route. However I think I will eventually get my partially seized one fixed for a spare. My spare coupling came with a free second hand auto box and transfer box for the same price as a second hand vicous coupling sells for on ebay.

When I used to go out driving the unsurfaced roads, I always used to go prepared. I did venture out on my own, but I always drove lanes that I knew. Even then I got caught out a couple of times. I always carried a high lift jack, a tirfor winch, ropes, strops, blocks of wood, an axe, a bow saw, spade, and two waffles. So, I could get myself out of trouble. Much easier of course if in convoy. Glad to hear that you are out and home. That lane always looks nice and easy from the Elford end. I have driven and cycled past it loads, but never been down it.

Good luck. If you haven't got a Defender ratchet jack, you can use a bottle jack with a packing piece of wood on the wheel rim to lift a wheel. Then as said above dig the edge of the rut in, and fill in the bottom of the rut. Do that on each corner. And keep at it. You will also have to clear the path backwards from where you are so you can move without just getting restuck.

It must be the Elford near Tamworth and Lichfield. A search in Google maps only comes up with that one, and a search in Trailwise only shows the one BOAT. There is a shorter UCR up near the National Air Arboretum, but that is Alrewas - and its a dead end.