duncmc

If you fold the seats back into position again, you will find another 4 bolts to undo on the front face of those brackets. 2 bolts per bracket.

You are correct David, I did not mention that. As I wrote the above I had not tested it. I have since had the switch put and it is fine. And yes I mean interior lights, but not just those, the door bottom puddle lights too.

Well, I can't see one under the steering column. And I have had the rest of the dash apart to do the heater change. Didn't see one then either.

As per the title. I am trying to sort why my courtesy lights are stuck on. I have checked and cleaned all the door switches and the tailgate one. I have changed the timer relay for a new one from Rimmer Bros but my lights are still stuck on. I had heard or read that the alarm ECU might be faulty, so I asked the guys at remotekey.co.uk who said that the alarm has nothing to do with the lights. They suggested a bad earth or the multifunction unit. However, I didn't think they came in until the softdash. The confusing bit though is Microcat says my car should have one, then again though it shows the softdash diagram. Before I try chase down a bad earth, can anyone confirm that there is no multifuntion unit on a 1993 hard dash then. thanks.

It could be a brake caliper binding too, I had this on my Sport recently. I did think it was a wheel bearing at first.

I can't believe how bad it is when the first 25years were spent there, you'd think it's been sat in the sea a lot. Is it a '93 by any chance?

Hi Richard, I have been on holiday for the last week, so I didn't see your reply. Have you managed to get anywhere using the link that Bowie69 posted above? I bought this a few years ago to help me with mine when I had a problem http://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=230 I did find it useful. Then there is this page too that might be helpful, http://www.falconworks.net/abs/new_pump_classic.htm

That is bad isn't it. Looking at the condition, I would recommend cleaning off some of that seam sealer and underseal to check the rest. Everything can be rescued. You just have to weigh up the cost of your time and parts versus getting another one in better nick. That family connection is a big pull though! Did it spend much time near the sea, or on a farm?

I haven't read all your post yet George, but I got my Plymouth Blue paint from these people.... http://www.turnerstradepaints.co.uk/ I am sure that they will post stuff over, it does say that they send stuff worldwide. I don't see why they wouldn't these days.

You are welcome. The first and third pictures are from the Vogue that I had a few years ago, and I just patched those. The other two pictures are from my current Vogue SE that I am still working on. I fitted new arches to that one. Both have threads in the members section. Blue on is http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69483&page=1 And the Black on is http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=82184

Hi George, How's this...totally original, not welded. OK, there are a few small holes, but you can probably get the idea. Then, I have this. After I welded the new arch in. However, I did have good metal to copy. (this is a different car).

The behaviour you describe when you turn the ignition on of the ABS pump running for about 45 secs is fairly normal. However I suspect that the system is not bled correctly and you have some air in the system still. The pump shouldn't run every time you press the brake pedal. When you turn the ignition on do you get the three ABS check lights, that go out leaving just the red one to go out once you get over 5mph? You will feel the pedal moving as the ABS operates. Almost a vibration through the pedal. Something doesn't sound quite right though. Needs more info first. Could be numerous things, faulty ABS sensor, reluctor ring problem, wiring problem, modulator block problem or ABS ecu problem. Hopefully something simple. Welcome to te forum by the way. Can you edit your profile to let us know where you are. You never know, another member could be round the corner to help.

Also, changing dampers is so much easier to do if they are not inside the springs.

I'm sorry to hear of your trouble. I would try phoning LR dealers in another country, even one in the UK and hopefully one will be able to help. Start with ones nearer home. Another option to try would be to contact this company for advice. www.remotekey.co.uk

Yep, that would account for you noise! Don't know what the tube is sorry.

I feel like flags should be at half mast, and we should all be wearing a black arm band.

Just to say that you can change the big ends with the engine in the car. I did so on my last classic. And my pistons were still in! It's in the thread in the members section somewhere. I will link to it later when I have time.

Does sound like your pump has gone and blown the fuse. Possibly because the relay failed in the "on" position, which happens. Well it does on the classic and it's basically the same system. That happened to me at Eastnor whilst on a drive round with the Range Rover Register directed by Mr Crawthorne many many years ago. If you take the pump relay out and jump where terminals 30/51 were to were 87 was, the pump should run with the ignition on or off. It is probably worth disconnecting the pump and testing for 12V first at the connector when you do the test, rather than blowing another 40A fuse. The above assumes that you don't have general fusebox problems.

Difflicult to tell without knowing the larger picture, but it looks like the lip of the seal isn't seated properly. Now that would cause a n oil loak wouldn't it. Daylight makes a huge difference, as I found when trying to change brake pads the other week on the drive in the rain, and dark.

Hi, What car are you dealing with? If I search for WKW 000020 in Google it comes up with a water sensor for the Discovery 2 TD5.

Happy New Year. Get it in early!

Indeed! Happy Christmas Everyone. thought I saw Father Christmas on his sleight early...then realised it was just a star.

On my last Classic RR I took an old windscreen out to do some repairs and swap the perished windscreen rubber. There was no way I could get the replacement screen back in though, so I called the professionals, and got a windscreen fitter to do it. Even though he did struggle he still made it look easy. The very kind chap even gave me a couple of his fitting tools in case I tried again.

Back of one of the rocker covers against the bulkhead isn't it? Well that is where they go on a Classic, RH one on my classic.

Can't help you re the engine swap, but a friend recently had trouble starting a diesel Freelander. It ran before being put into the garage for a few weeks and then wouldn't start. It was turning over, and diesel was pumping from the injectors, but not a lot. In the end it turned out that the main earth strap to the engine had broken, so not enough current was flowing to allow the engine to start. As you will have disturbed earths, could it be an earth problem?