nicks90

that truck just NEEDS to go to Ladoga in proto class

procomps have a bad reputation - mainly for snapping the eyes off due to rubbish tiny spot welds. They are also very soft and dont damp particularly well. having had procomps before, i would recommend you steer clear. They are definitely in the realms of 'very budget' and all that entails. On mine the shafts rusted very quickly resulting in the seals failing. I would highly recommend you save up a bit more and get some decent shocks, like bilsteins etc - the performance more than makes up for the jump in price.

Oh, and turbo to bottom of inter cooler and top of I/c to manifold.

Well if you aren't changing engine position, you're pipes will be long enough. So should be a doddle.

jeeeez - £1000 and you still have to buy the clutch and gearbox for it! If you want a more relaxed top speed cruise and a lower 1st - it would be much cheaper to fit a 1.6 transfer gear and an overdrive.

yes they are. Only stumbling block we had was when we ditched the old td engine, we left the pipes on it. When we fitted the tdi we found the tdi pipes were shorter and wouldnt quite reach. BUT the threads were the same.

erm, this is going in a td 110 yeah? if so it will fit fine. the gap between the inner wings at the front is the same between the td, nad, v8 and tdi versions. When we fitted a tdi engine, rad+intercooler assembly to a friends 110td - all we had to do was trim the bottom mounting points down about 30mm and make some adjustments to the top mounts so the pins lined up correctly to hold it all in place.

if the ENV axles are in good condition - sell them on. They go for good money!!!! then spend that money on getting a set of shafts made for the front sals and swap in the centre from your spare axle.

one of the big things with larger haulage companies is retraining their drivers for efficiency at the moment. Neighbour of mine is a consultant driving instructor and works for 2 large firms and retrains all their drivers in trying to eek out the mpg on their newer trucks. he reckons most of the newer rigs can get 12-14mpg if driven properly on motorways and A roads - up from 10-12mpg - by proper use of revs and cruise control etc. thats basically a 10% reduction on fuel costs which can equate to millions a year in savings.

now i;ve seen it from the back - it is styled for the american market for sure! dont like it anymore, side view is lovely, but that bum just looks horrid.

as an interim solution - try cleaning up the surfaces of the pipe either side of the ridge and painting it with a rubberised paint. That should give the silicone pipe a bit of 'stick-tion' when its clamped in place by the jubilee clip.

it shouldnt get towards boiling point! Thats what you have a functioning water pump for idea behind it being in the bottom hose is this - Say your travelling at 60mph and with the airflow over the radiator with no fan on you have the following readings.... water temp in top hose - 95C water temp in centre of rad - 90C water temp in bottom hose feeding engine - 82C therefore if the vehicles radiator and airflow through the rad is sufficient to keep the incoming water temp of the engine to the right level - your fan doesnt switch on. its only when that airflow doesnt keep up with the generated heat and the water temp going into the engine exceeds your prefered temp that the fan comes on. If you had it in the top hose, your fan will be thinking the engine is cooking and overcooling the thing so that the incoming water temp to the engine might be down to 70C or lower. that can overcool the engine and make it run less efficiently.

if its just for getting stuck in the slippery stuff - why not just use a couple of lengths of spiky rubber matting? unroll it, put it down and drive over it, pick it up and roll it back up again?

yep - as others have said - you should be ok with compression. Best to check though by removing the spring and jacking the corner up to the bump stop to check it doesnt bottom the shock out before contacting the bump. Also factor in at least another 10mm bump stop compression when measuring what compression is left in the shock! as for extension, mine has standard 300tdi springs on and the rears disclocate by about 3" so i made some little pyramids on the spring seat to relocate the spring correctly and i fixed the spring to the top spring mount. Much quieter and smoother operation. Fronts dislocate by about an inch and i didnt do anything with them, as they have always reseated without the need for any modifications.

what about the merc OM612 or OM647 diesels? good torquey motors and plenty of them about now and plenty of conversion kits exist to mate them to a variety of transmissions.

i have something on there - no idea what it is, but i do know that it has no oil in it and therefore is only there to please the MOT man. if your swivel preload is right and everything else like bushes and bearings set correctly, you dont really need one. If i hit a big pothole a over 50mph, i do get a small wheel twitch. But i put that down to the larger backspace wheels than anything else. cant say i;ve noticed anything negative about not having a working damper.

stick with the defender - give the engine a good going over and run it on veg oil. much much much cheaper to run than any p38 can ever hope to achieve! we have just recently gone through the pain of choosing a new 4x4 for towing caravan, dog wagon, daily drive for the missus etc and I really wanted a p38. even got her indoors to drive one - late model well over budget, but gives you an idea of what a 'good one' feels like - and she liked it! So the search was on to find one in budget. We didnt find one. Every single p38 we looked at was a nail. Either had terrible electrical problems or had interstellar mileage with dubious history. It was a real shame, if we could have stretched to a couple more £k we could have had a nice one, but under £4k they are all sheds now. Well, at least the 10 we went to see were!

do a search for "very small form factor pc" and you will find several at the £250 mark that are fully built with win7 pre-installed and should do everything you need. lenovo and foxconn do several sub £300 versions.

personally i would just do a normal oil change - but get it nice and warm first as reckless said. I dont like engine flush stuff after suffering a catastrophic failure of my volvos engine many moons ago. It was a bit gunky and also had moisture build up from a period of short journeys. As it was service time, I put in some engine flush. Within 60 seconds of idling the engine it siezed! After stripping the head down it became apparent it was the overhead cam that had seized, as some of the oilways feeding the cam had become blocked with fine carbon/gunk. I can only attribute this to the engine flush loosening all the gunk that had built up and allowing it to travel to very small oilways that it then blocked and caused the seize. I was not happy. But you live and learn.

I am also generally anti-auto. i've driven a variety of eurobox autos and also disco v8 autos and hated every single one! Until....... i drove an auto with a tremendously torquey turbo diesel (our new car, grand cherokee with the 2.7 merc crd and 5sp auto and tuning box ) to say it is fantastic to drive is an understatement! It launches off the mark like a scalded cat and the hellectrikery controlled autobox really does an amazing job of picking the right gear for the right situation. Alternatively manual selection. When i have tried the same in other motors (notably v8 disco), the lag between shifting the stick from 2 to 3 was horrible. This, its like doing a quick shift at full throttle and will almost induce a head snap if thats your thing! I have now made a deal with the devil if he promises to keep supplying me with vehicles that have an engine producing 350ft/lb of torque or more - i will happily live with a computshift autobox behind it.

ermmmmm, if thats just the airbox - and the filter is elsewhere in another box............... why does it have that bolt on bolt off 'lid'?

dont think jungles trekkers did a 10.5, only 12.5 - only the ET was 10.5 i think Toyo open country mt do a 35.11.5 - but not found any other 'normal' mud terrains of that size, other than simex(alikes)

i managed 95mph indicated once in my 300tdi 90 - on a slight downhill, on a private test track that we affectionately call the M1... it was terrifying.

dont forget - the bigger the intercooler the more turbo lag you will get. pressurising that much air in the intake system is not the most efficient thing in the world and might make your truck feel unresponsive to the loud pedal. ps, standard td5 intercooler has no more surface area or volume to a normal tdi i/c and the pipework routing is a 'mare.

i wouldnt bother with a FL. Was massively underwhelmed by the cabin space and interior layout for the size of vehicle. Was also massively underwhelmed by the performance from the td4. When the disco2 died - we test drove several freebies, honda crv, nissan xtrail, qashqai, rav4, grand vitara etc - and I actually put the freeby very low on the list in comparison. I was extremely disappointed because I WANTED the freeby to do well and wanted to stay landrover! But alas, in the company of the jap and korean softroaders, it failed miserably on virtually all aspects. We ended up with a nissan xtrail and its extremely good in all areas. Its even pretty good offroad!