Escape

Paul, I'm not gonna put this on a public forum, but you'll get a pm. 😉 Best precaution is not to use superlock, it's not that the P38 is that likely to be stolen anyway. You need to be sure both remote(s) and driver door actuator are fully operational if you superlock it. That way, should either one fail, you can still get in with the other. If the car is really superlocked, smahing a window wont even help you, because you won't be able to unlock or open the door from the inside either. And taking the door card off with the door closed is impossible as far as I know (without doing a lot more damage). You should always be able to mechanically unlock the driver's door, either locked or superlocked, and take it from there. Should the mechanical link fail, at the same time as the remote, at least without superlock you can unlock from the inside (after you get in). If you remove the rear door, you have just enough access to cut through the front door catch so you can open that and get to the inside if the lock is jammed or the links broken. Filip

I did check the valley gasket. It was flattened a bit during transport, and I worked it back into shape to align all the boltholes and passages before Ben fitted it. Not convinced a blown head gasket could give the symptoms of low coolant flow. But the temperature sensor is very close to the suspected leak, so maybe a local hot spot before the thermostat gets warm enough to fully open?

The inline filter on the GEMS 4.0/4.6 isn't bigger than that on an old 4-pot petrol on carbs. The Bosch 4.0/4.6 doens't even have a replaceable filter, just one built into the fuel pump in the tank. More recent V8s are described as having a lifetime filter, I think also in the tank. Diesel being more viscous than petrol needs better filters, so you should be OK using those. I checked the Mann filter catalogue, but couldn't find any different specs for petrol or diesel. Filip

I agree everything point to the thermostat (including the troubleshooting section in Rave). Still, a new one being bad is one thing, an old one behaving exactly opposite as before to give the same symptoms as the new one, that does sound strange. I checked both the old and new waterpumps as well, we were hoping to find a lose impillor or something, but they seem perfectly fine. And everything has been flushed, so what could be preventing flow??

We did Ladoga in 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012. We tried Raid (= TR3 with 2 cars), Grand Tourism and Proto, with varying success. Jochen and Michel went back in 2015 and 2016. Like Daan, it was the HOFS who introduced us to the event and were a great help the first year! A budget of around €1000/person covered ferries (only one for us), registration and fuel. A bit more if you can't split costs with a support crew. So not too bad for 2 a weeks holiday. 🙂 A lot of money does go in the preparation of the cars, and sorting stuff afterwards. Getting the visums requires some patience if you do it yourself, or you can take the easy but more expensive route and go through an agency that sorts everything for you. Not sure how welcome we would be these days, with tensions building on several fronts... From Belgium, we departed on Tuesday morning, to get the night ferry that arrives in Helsinki on Thursday morning. Which leaves you a day to reach St Pete's. Heading back on Sunday, we we're back home Tuesday evening 2 weeks later. So 2.5 weeks of holiday required, plus a lot of time preparing. After our first tour, despite the setbacks, I couldn't wait to get back out there! And that itch has returned the last couple of years. I'm thinking Grand Tourism again, driving there and back. But I could easily be convinced to do support if someone wants to go racing. 🙂 Greetz, Filip

June 8th 'till 16th.

It would be great if we could get an international crew together! 😎 Should probably try and include some Fins as well. So who's up for it? @landroversforever build thread started, as requested. It can only help keeping me motivated. 😉 Filip

A long time ago, in a galaxy swamp far way, this was my daily driver. A manual V8 converted to a 4.6, with Ashcroft lockers and a Milemarker hydraulic winch, named Piper. She did very well, both on and off the road. Unfortunately, it got destroyed when our workshop burned down in 2015. At that time I was registered to take her back to Ladoga, but obviously never made it. I drove another, standard, P38 for the last couple of years, but always wanted to rebuild a similar car. Now that our Workshop has been rebuilt and is operational again, the time as come to stop dreaming and start getting greasy. After lots of thought, I decided to start from another P38 I've had for some time, named Prue. Prue is/was a 4.6 automatic, and as soon as I found a manual one (Piper) I preferred driving that. She 'only' had a 4.0, so the 4.6 was transferred from Prue and Piper evolved into the above car. That left Prue as a 4.0 automatic, mainly driven by my girlfriend at the time. Eventually put aside with a water leak at the valley but I never got 'round to sorting her. Couldn't bring myself to sell or strip either, as she was my first V8. So now the time has come to bring her back to life. It wont be the easiest way though, as I want to convert to manual. She will be aptly renamed Phoenix. I've got a 5.0 engine block with all the goodies, a Megasquirt to power it (thanks to @FridgeFreezer) and managed to salvage the gearbox and flywheel/clutch from the burned Rangie. The Milemarker looks like it can be rebuilt as well. By chance I also came across a manual diesel P38. In a poor shape, but a perfect donor for the interior parts for a conversion to manual. First task is to get the MS running in a P38 with direct coil drive and reusing as much of the standard fuses, relays and wiring. Including the original CKP (hence the choice for direct coil drive). Test case will be a GEMS, but I've also got a later P38 with Bosch/Thor engine, and plan to use the intake manifold for the 5.0 to maximize torque. Next would be to install the manual box. I'm thinking a body off will probably be the easiest way to swap engine and gearbox. That will make it easy to redo the brakelines and stuff as well. And it's not that hard on a P38, as I've found out stripping the manual diesel. Arnott GenIII airsprings and longer Terrafirma dampers will also be installed. A new set of pegged Ashcroft lockers is on order, brakes will no doubt need refurbishing and bushes replaced. Most work will be the interior I fear. The dash has to be removed to get access to the pedalbox and install one with a clutch pedal... Still convinced I want a manual and the conversion is worth it! Once that's done, I'll get to building up the 5.0. So it wont sit around for too long before being fired up. Then there will be loads of smaller tasks. Like enlarging the wheel arches for the Mickey Thompson Baja Claws. Those were almost impossible to get, I had to resort to importing directly from the US, with an expensive surprise to get it out of the port and through customs. A custom bumper, based on the above design will be made. It's basically a hidden winch mount, with the standard inner bumper welded to it and the original plastic cover. A snorkel will need to be fitted, which requires a different airbox. Ideally she should be finished by April. To be pressed into service as a daily driver. The new LEZ in Brussels means I will no longer be allowed to drive my Esprit to work, as it predates the Euro emissions standards. So for the environment's sake I will have to trade in the 2.2 4-pot for a 5.0 V8. 🙂 LPG should keep things affordable. In May I need a good Rangie as a tow vehicle, to do tech support on a classic car run. Hoping we wont actually need the trailer, but she should be there and make an impression. And then there's Ladoga, as mentioned in another thread. And what got me to start this topic. I'll try to update regularly and add some pictures. Being the dinosaur I am, I don't have a fancy phone that outsmarts me, and getting my greasy paws on the good camera is frowned upon. So don't expect too much, unless @elbekko remembers to take some pics while helping me. Greetz, Filip

Maybe I should do just that. It should be an interesting project. But I wont go into too much detail here, don't want to hijack this thread. 😉

I'm seriously considering going back. I registered for 2015, but had to cancel due to the fire in our workshop. Now that I'm finally ready to start on a car again, Ladoga is very high on my wish list. Just the small matter of getting the car ready and finding a copilot/crew... Filip

That sounds like the driver door actuator failing. If the microswitches don't register the key movement, the alarm wont let the doors unlock. And with superlock, you can't manually open them either. There are easier/cheaper ways to get in to a P38 though.... @JohnnoK good link, thanks!

Does sound like an automatic problem, rather than traction. Checking and/or replacing the oil as suggested would be the first step.

Even better, both the Classic (with Borg Warner viscous) and P38 can drive with either front or rear propshaft removed. The chain drive goes to the body of the center diff. The viscous coupling locks front and rear outputs, so drive remains available to the side that has traction even if the other side has no resistance at all. This is different to the torsen center diff in the L322. I was very disappointed to find those are immobilized if the front or rear prop fails. So much for progress... As for TC, just want to add that I do see the many advantages of the system. It was a great help in my Defender TD5 and I've seen it at work a lot in P38, D3/4 and FL2. It really makes a differences and can get those cars through obstacles you wouldn't think possible. So I'm sure the new Defender with the latest terrain response will be a great performer, as as FF says accessible to all. But for ultimate offroad performance, it will never match a mechanical locking diff. As a fit-and-forget solution, an ATB or torsen is probably the best compromise. Personally I like to play with buttons and feel in control. Which is why I also prefer an old notchy gearbox to the flappy paddles of today's sports cars. Filip

What exactly do you want to achieve by installing a battery switch? Prevent battery drain, emergency shut down of the engine, theft protection (battery key), ... ? If it's just to isolate the battery, I'd use the negative. This will offer the best safety when working on the car, as you don't have a (short) live section from battery + to switch. But that would make it impossible to keep the radio (at least I can't think of a good solution). To cut the engine, you need to do some rewiring or use a suitable switch to prevent the alternator from keeping the engine (a)live. As discussed. For the radio I'd use a dedicated wire (with fuse) from battery + to the radio (and possibly interior lights, central locking, alarm etc while you're at it). Depending on the car, this could become rather complex. Filip

Rough roads could be the cause. Although Belgian roads aren't great, I'm not doing much offroading lately unfortunately. This could also explain why the one bulb failed rather early and all others are still good.

I have to agree with Jamie. I loved the traction control on my Defender, it was a huge help when I started offroading and managed to correct many of my mistakes. But mechanical difflocks are even better. Which is why I upgraded to ARBs (and later Ashcroft lockers on the Rangie). Torque will always be transferred to the wheel(s) with the most grip, without having to create wheelspin first to let the traction control know how to intervene. There are some situation where you want a bit of speed difference, as in turns. Lockers will cause some wheelspin, but no more than traction control needs to engage in any situation. The big downside to mechanical full locking diffs is the driver needs to know what he/she is doing. Like disengage when back on solid surfaces. Traction control takes away all responsibility, which is pretty much what all modern cars are about... Even Lotus doesn't offer a car without traction control anymore. So I doubt the new Defender will get locking diffs. But I'm sure it will do very well with terrain response in most situations, and more importantly, will do so regardless of driver skill. Filip

@Retroanaconda strange the Nightbreakers don't last long with you. I've had them in both the Esprit and Rangie for 3 years and about 100k km between the both of them and only needed to replace a single bulb.

Another vote for the Nightbreakers. I have them in all my cars.

A big thanks to @Anderzander, @Retroanaconda, @Ed Poore and of course @FridgeFreezer, who delivered the parts at the workshop yesterday. 🖕

I recently had a customer come in with a diesel leak. Turned out the fuel filter has rusted through. A genuine LR item, a few years old, and not too much crud around it. Not impressed by the quality of genuine items... Those filters aren't cheap either!

as above, just go around tapping the seal firmly to the frame to take out the slack. It can take a few rounds to get it to seat, but it should fit. Getting the glass in is another challenge...

I'm thinking the 1.1 would be a pretty good match with portal boxes as well. 🙂

10Nm according to the workshop manual, both for the TD6 and 4.4 V8. Seems low, too low for most torquewrenches. I would use a 1/4" ratchet and tighten them by feel, little risk of breaking anything with a 1/4" unless you're really trying.

If the wastegate is stuck closed, boost pressure will rise above save levels and the ECU will cut fuel (above 2.2 MAP IIRC), this will feel like a misfire. I had a customer with similar symptoms, took some work but once freed and properly adjusted, it drove fine again. Filip

I've had similar with a P38. Bleeding the slave would solve it, for a few days. Once I forgot to fully tighten the cap on the reservoir, and that did solve it. Never could figure out the actual cause, only thing I can think of is that when the brake pump fills the accumulator it was also sucking back fluid from the master, and letting air in. Maybe because the vent in the cap was blocked?