Escape

Tough luck Mike :-(. Hope you get a break soon!

As above, 10V is not enough. If you don't get more without load, there is a bad connection in the circuit, and as soon as current is required, the resistance/voltage drop will be to big for the lights to work.

Too bad Mike... Best of luck getting it sorted quickly!

As Elbekko says, the BMW engine needs to rev to get the Range moving. But if you're easy on the throttle, you can get it to shift at 2500-3000rpm. And lock-up around 50mph. You have checked or replaced the ATF? That would be my first point of attention.

I can confirm alloy rims on normal cars can also get stuck on the steel hubs. But Landies tend to see more water and dirt, so are more susceptible. On a lot of cars the rims aren't centered on the hub either, so no tight fit to start the corrosion.

If you need to use a fuse of 200A, chances are if something goes wrong, the damage will be done before the fuse blows. So not much point. Adding a fuse could also cause a voltage drop, something you certainly don't want in your starter circuit. As for running 12V+ wiring via the starter, I'm not a fan. It can be useful to simplify and reduce cable length. But a different cable directly to the fuse box is 'cleaner' in my book, and makes troubleshooting easier. A lot of cars have the alternator connected via the starter. That does make sense as they're usually relatively close so you don't need 2 full lengths of thick cable.

Glad I could help and to hear you got it fixed easily! It's always a good idea to start with the easiest things, before replacing more complex and expensive items. Makes it easier to live with and enjoy the P38s, despite their bad reputation. ;-)

Unfortunately, not... I had a lot more worries from oncoming traffic crossing into my lane around turn in the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains then in Snowdonia and South Wales. Not to mention slow tourists holding me back. Worst was a Merc deciding to come to a full stop in the right hand lane just before a blind turn, so he could take some pictures.

I can only agree driving standards are appalling. Everywhere it would seem. When we started our regular visits to UK about 10 years ago, I was always pleasantly surprised by most driver's road manners. I was usually towing a trailer, so could appreciate the lack of idiot behavior even more. Recently, things seem to have gotten considerably worse. Not quite as bad as in Belgium or France (in my view), but certainly enough to become both annoyed and worried. Or maybe I'm becoming more and more of a grumpy old barsteward. When driving my Esprit, the fear of other drivers doing something dangerous and unavoidable is what keeps my speed down. 'Cause they're bound to win, despite Darwins best efforts...

If the compressor continues to run with the ignition off, the relay could be stuck. And that could upset EAS operation as well. Try swapping relay 20 with a known good one. The compressor is controlled by the EAS ECU, not via the driveblock.

I don't remember getting any feedback from the lock until the correct EKA is fully entered. Only then will the central locking work and indicators flash.

Have you actually entered the EKA? If it the alarm went of, the BECM will be in lockdown and wont allow central locking or remote sync unless you enter the EKA.

The problem with te allbrit site Elbekko mentions is that it doesn't list part numbers anymore. So not ideal if you want to search several vendors. I use http://new.lrcat.com/ , you get used to the Russian texts soon enough and it has exactly the same structure as the old microcat on CD.

Wow, that's an epic trip!

Like Ben I've used a P38a V8 as a daily drive, been doing so since 2006. Last couple of years the Lotus has been my vehicle of choice to get to work, but still have a Range for hauling and towing. She does need an engine overhaul, but that's another story. It's a very relaxed and comfortable drive, and quite cheap to if you can do your own work. Most issues are just niggles, and wont prevent you from getting to work. But can be a bit challenging to solve, like blend motors. The 2 main mods have already been mentioned: Replacing the EAS timer with a standard relay will lessen load on the EAS and give you an early warning in case a leak develops. A set of schrader valves is useful should the EAS act up, but it will always get you home on the bumps as well. Disabling the passive immobiliser means you only need the keyblade to open and start the car. Greetz, Filip

Another vote for a carp bed or bedchair. I can just fit one in the Range Rover if I move the front passenger seat forward. Easy and comfortable. 8-)

I find the 4 post much easier to use, so it was the first choice for most jobs (when I had 2 lifts). Just drive up, lift and done. A lifting beam and/or large chassis stands make it very versatile. For some jobs like suspension, welding sills etc or gearbox on FWD the 2 poster was better for access. They're also cheaper, but a lot more cumbersome to use properly and safely. I'll get one of each type in the new Workshop, just for flexibility. I'd be hard pressed to chose a type, depends on how much you plan to use it and what type of work (regular quick access or longer projects).

Challenge accepted Really need to sort my Rangie, so I can come and play myself...

I have always removed as much as possible, including the valve and even the cooler and solenoids. Main thing is to avoid exhaust gas in the inlet, so blanking that will suffice. I wouldn't trust just blanking the feed to the valve, it can fail in an open state due to crud etc. It's not much work to remove/replace everything, and if you want to improve, why not go all the way? Saves a bit of weight as well.

Glad you got out! Those situation can be hard on the nerves, but make for great stories afterwards. I saw a Jag XF in a similar situation on a walk in Snowdonia. He had driven up a foothpad that was clearly to narrow for vehicles, but had managed to come a long way, despite the uneven terrain. I wouldn't have tried it in the Range not knowing what lay ahead. Not sure if he tried to reverse at some point, or just slid to the right. The car looked like it was left at least a couple of hours ago, much like the Range above, with just one bush holding it from the rocky bank of the river Conwy. With almost no access, it will have been quite some recovery. Best chance would have been with a backhoe and use the digger as leverage. If you could get it there... Filip

You're forgetting one important factor: all the diesel engines you mention, are turbocharged! So not a fair comparison to a NA petrol engine. A 2.5 NAD will only give you about 70hp, it's doubled because of the turbocharger. It's because of this low output (despite the higher compression giving the diesel an efficiency advantage) that turbocharging was soon adopted for diesel engines. And the main reason for their increased popularity. Only recently have manufacturers looked into turbocharging petrol engines, to be able to downsize in an effort to appease the green lobby. Previously turbocharging was only reserved for sportscars. Supercharging is another interesting path, especially if you're looking for low down torque. More on topic, my 2cents on a tow vehicle: Enginewise, there isn't much difference, the V8 will do a great job in any car. The V8 certainly has ample to torque to pull away, even with a manual and without slipping the clutch much. More difference for the diesels. I'm not a great fan of 200/300Tdi, but love the TD5 and have a soft spot for a 2.5VM just because. An RRC V8 would do a good job towing, and look great doing it. But hard to find a good one for a reasonable price. P38's are cheap, but can be very reliable and tow even better (longer wheelbase, wider track, heavier car and EAS). Even the BMW diesel with a manual isn't too bad. I'd stay away from the diesel + autobox, you'll always feel like you're pushing it with any load behind. Most problems reported are due to not understanding the different systems. Find someone who knows the P38 or be prepared to make the effort yourself. I found the L322 not so nice to drive. Very comfortable, but detached and feels big/heavy compared to the P38. They do tow well, the 3.0 BMW copes better than the 2.5 in the P38. D3/D4 TDV6 make for a very relaxed drive, and the trailer stability program does add safety. But I've always been more found of Range Rovers. I used to drive a Defender 110 TD5 with a trailer for work, never could fault it but you have to cope with basic creature comfort. Which is why I got a P38 Range Rover instead. As said, the more recent the vehicle, the more complex the systems will be, making DIY less obvious. Filip

The charger will do the job, it will just take longer. And it might not like the prolonged heavy use, due to heat build-up. But it's only 10% extra, so not that much. As long as the battery isn't fully depleted, it shouldn't be an issue.

Just water should get most out. The block drain on the LHS is easy to reach, 3/8" square IIRC.

Edited: Ben beat me to it.

The rear output is not fixed to the input, so the VC will have to work hard to transmit power to one prop if the other is missing. From Rave: "The differential unit is driven from the intermediate shaft through a Morse chain. The outer casing of the differential unit is the input, while the sun gear provides the front output and the planet carrier the rear output." So despite the unusual layout of the epicyclic differential in the Borg Warner, it operates exactly the same as an axle diff, with the VC providing a coupling between front and rear that allows some slip. Unless the VC is already locked completely solid, you will notice a difference when accelerating, much like the delay from the torqueconverter of an autobox (which operates on the same principle). I do agree with the rest of your post, we need more info to make any useful comments. I find it hard to believe the prop would work loose at the transferbox and diff at exactly the same time. One end will go first, causing the prop to flay out and hit everything in reach on the underside, likely causing major damage if it were to happen at speed. @pep73, are you sure the front prop was fitted when you bought the Range Rover? Sometimes an unscrupulous seller will remove the front prop to hide problems with the VC. Filip