Team Idris

Anti squealers do bias the piston one way. It's not the best way to fix the problem of high frequency chatter. If they don't squeal you don't need them.

You need a new auto You could have water in the oil, but black oil usually means it's time for both parts. Especially if they have any age. The lack of air flow off road is hard on the rubber parts of a hydraulic clutch. (Hard on everything)

Thanks Arjan Discomikey; keeps being reborn though ! There's now huge flipping space where the winch mount should be It's back to the stage where it was in 2006 when the winch plate was a bit of wood for a jig. You can see the hyd pump ! The whole 6mm plate had to come out in around five main pieces. I sure warmed the grinders up!

Craig Davis EWP115 electric water pump. Soooo, somebody might have lost control down a steep hill and taken the sensible decision to end the trip by lining up a suitable big tree smack in the middle of the bull bar to save the chassis rails. This worked on the most part with only the slightest wrinkle in the LH leg. Outcome; Scaffold tube bull bar is V shaped, 6mm winch mount base plate is bent across whole width, R-Type hydraulic winch gearbox casing smashed, Water pump pushed through 1mm ally plate into winch rope while spinning! Probably should fit new Dyneema Bow rope. So two hours of extremely good fun before I broke our toy While I'm in there 'fixing stuff' I might as well do some upgrades. I have the following issues; I could do with a direct belt drive for the alternator to help drive it, The water pump is very close to the winch as was, Need a better run on the RV8 bottom hose to the rear rad as it is very close to the belt, Moving the winch even 50m further back would help self-reeve. So I have bought one of those new fangled electric pumps and an LCD controller! But what does it do? The fan is only triggered a few degrees above a set point. Between these two values the pump goes from a slow speed to it's maximum. (Slow, Fast, Fast + Fan). Below 'slow' the pump runs on and off just enough to pull water past the top-hose mounted sensor. Heat rises anyway, but it's still a good idea, even though there is no thermostat fitted with this setup. The pump can be in the top or bottom hose. As a heat transfer engineer I can say that the pump should be upstream of the biggest load which is the rad. But for cooler running and to aid self bleeding the bottom hose is probably safer. It is a circulating system, so cavitation isn't going to be a risk. Minor advantages; It will heat up quicker, You don't need a fan thermostat (but you probably already have one fitted anyway), It runs for a few seconds after engine stop to stop heat soak, It will do the right flow even at low winch and drive speeds (But that's low HP work anyway so no real engine heat). Questions for me? I have two fans on a double pole thermostat. Not sure how to use single LCD-controller output with the sensor I already have? How am I butchering the ally pump housing and welding on a new inlet pipe? Do I put the LCD display on a clear fronted box in the roof? It worked fine until I drove into a tree! Why don't I just fix the damage and stop Bucking around with something that worked fine?

A run of weld shrinks them and they fall out.

I'd go for a Bridgeport universal. There are loads of bits and add ons. It's like the ford escort of millers.

I've been none too happy with the hand brake, so I have bought a new dumper truck handle and long cable. Now, I would have said the over centre type was a bit dodgy, because you can knock them free. However the new type has a single ratchet, so it is safer than the RRC one. To knock it free it looks like you would have to strike it from the front and back at the same time, which would be quite an achievement! Also, you rotate the handle to take up the adjustment. On the whole it looks a really good off-road solution.

And is the gauge any good? I only trust capillary or proper k-type temp readers.

It's got the wrong fan on it. The fan you have blows air out of the front. At higher speeds the natural flow fights the fan and the air stops. Worth a shot I guess Probably is mixture though ?

Can't you just pm me your address? I'll PayPal for a new battery and can you leave the keys in it My old boss sold a tractor after 12 months, but that guy hadn't paid anything on an engine re-build. I think how this normally works is folk go ahead with a possession on the basis a court would side with them? I haven't seen it from the proper legal side. Unless it's a really good one, I probably would just push it out onto the street and ring the council to complain about it.

Definitely talk to Ashcroft. But that one looks like it might have been too hard. I don't think one you buy today will have the same problem.

Another vote for rubber gasket On engine number one I ran a bead of silicon round with no gasket.

Probably easier above, because you are already having to go over the outrigger? That's what decided me anyways

I'm at zero lift and I run RC rears up front. With the hydraulic winch and pto pump there is a lot of nose weight. I doubt lightweight springs will hold it up?

I just can't get on board with pin ends. I know they obsorb better due to the reduced movement, but they fight the travel. And when they do that they load up and stuff breaks. It looks like a job for ball joints (good ones).

If you are welding old metal I doubt you'll tell the difference? I'm mig with pure argon, because of the tig set I bought. It's a very different game compared to work, which is brand new sheets of metal. Tony can lay down mig welds that look as good as they possibly ever could!

I am missing off the info that the 24v lightweight radio trucks S2 & 3 used standard parts and a resistor block for each motor. can't remember on the fuel gauge though? probably did the same?

They'll be something weird Maybe a UNF? Early on I got annoyed fannying around with it and got a take off sandwich plate at 1/2" BSP.

I'd put a 12 volt alternator on as well as the OE 24 v. And put the 24v batteries under the seat. Then electrics can stay as they are. I guess the 'perfect' would be a 24v powered battery charger? But I doubt one exists.

Ooh blimey! After recovery you should be better than before with all that extra flow The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese? I have to put that in the mental archive with; 20% cooler and, You're a real world version of Ralph Wiggam, I'll turn around and you'll be eating crayons and glue!

I hear of pump conflict, but I don't see why? I would think overspeeding the leccy pump could be a risk, but I have never heard that mentioned? the safe bet is to leave the main pump with no drive. It can't be much added drag because the thermostat gets removed. It always has the option to spin freely. If it goes Pete tong you can put the right belt back on, but I suspect the leccy pump will be reliable, maybe more so than the leaky mech pumps? I fancy the leccy water pump because it gives me engine space by the winch and means the main pulley and alternator have their own belt.

There is a canvas part available for the rag tops. It's the only part I've heard of to do this job.

It could be the taper hole is worn? Mine certainly is mine wasn't so worn I was off the hole, but it was worn enough to put an R clip through it so I can make sure it is tight on a regular basis. I can't see a washer being an issue as long as the housing isn't so close to the mount that you cannot get full flex?

It needs some panel work again, but before the trial on the 22nd March 2015 it looked like this; It ran really well, but we couldn't get it to perform and we both drove badly, but we did have fun

I'd say injector, but not on all four pots. Pump timing maybe?