Boris113

Wow, that is very impressive! Was that done by hand or robot? Harry

IIRC, the series fuel filler is riveted to the bodywork with a corresponding plate inside the tub (like the ones that cover your rear light wiring) to cover the filler pipe. You could always cut a hole in a 110 tub and rivet a series filler on?

When I had my chassis made by Richards I had the following done prior to galvanising: - Roll cage mounts - Front jacking points cut off (to allow fitment of D44 challenge bumper) - 2 sets of engine mounts (300tdi currently on lt77 but allows conversion to r380) - Custom radiator mounts Other things you may wish to consider could be - Rear recovery points - Different type of cross member e.g. TD5 style with adjustable rear tub bracket - Fuel tank location - Rear winch mount Have a really long think before you order, not just about what you want to fit to the vehicle now but also in the future. There are certain things I wish I had changed but it's too late now! HTH Harry

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=70098&hl=+brake%20+flare#entry599216 This may help, I asked a similar Q a little while back Harry

An excellent write up, I'm planning on fitting a set of these soon instead of diff guards so this will be very useful! Do you have any pics of the finished article with diff pan installed? I'm concerned about clearance around the panhard rod. Harry

My mate had a 90 chassis from marslands and it seemed fine. The bulkhead outriggers were a tad out so had to be drilled significantly but otherwise all good. I went with Richards (although that isn't much use for you) and was very pleased with my chassis. Have you looked at designa chassis? I don;t know if they are still trading but it may be another option.

Thanks Roy, m10 fits perfectly. I tried that size before posting but the hole was full of muck so the bolt didn't want to thread too easily. Thought I best check before I make a mess of an imperial thread etc Harry

A good bit of advice there, I wish I had something like this to hand the first time I came to fit my 300! I'm in the process of rebuilding my 90 at the moment (300tdi & original lt77) and am currently looking at where to mount the air filter housing, where are you planning on putting yours? The best I've come up with so far is to use the AC pump mounts but that involves long lengths of hose to connect up to the snorkel. Harry

Just in the process of fitting a tow bar to a very early 90. The tow bar attaches to the underside of the crossmember with 3 bolts, 2 of which require nuts, and 1 which has the thread built into the crossmember, does anyone know the size of the thread for the latter? Many thanks, Harry

I had a terrafirma RTC version on my 90 and was very disappointed with it. It actually drove worse than with no damper and the build quality was awful. Having driven my mates truck (identical suspension, weight etc) I will be getting an OME version when funds allow. Harry

Thanks Sean, that is just what I was hoping to hear! The keeper has already had a soft top ex-mod 90 which I removed a few bits from on hebalf of him, both the wing boxes and seats did fetch good money! He has gone for an FFR this time because being a hard top it's a bit more secure than the last one (which was half-inched from his drive in under 2 minutes ) Many thanks, Harry

I'm doing some work to a friend of mine's 90. It's an ex-mod (originally 78 KT 74) I have so far removed most of the radio system from the back of the vehicle (batteries, large storage box etc) but he wants the whole lot stripping out. The other bits I can think of so far are: The large ammount of wires running along the sills Wiring to 24v generator Wing mounted ariel boxes and wiring I'm not very familiar with military vehicles, and especially 24v. If I was to remove the generator, would that have any effects on the vehicle or is it simply a case of disconnect wiring and drive belt then unbolt and remove? I'm not sure as to whether the generator is used for anything else on the vehicle. Is anyone able to confirm, are the remaining vehicle electrics still 12 volt? I know the nato wiring hitch is 12v and the vehicle appears to have a standard alternator fitted to the td lump also. I'm going to leave a lot of the smaller earth cables in the vehicle such as those from bonnet to bulkhead, they aren't too instrusive to daily use by a gamekeeper and can only aid the standard ineffective land rover earths! Many thanks, Harry

Nick that looks really good, do you have guillotines and benders to cut and shape the steel or was it done with a grinder and hammer/clamps? With regard to the recovery points, something like this may be useful http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-Off-Road-4x4-Recovery-Towing-Eyes-Tow-Hook-warn-8274-winch-gwynn-lewis-4x-/180816805226?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item2a19857d6a#ht_1495wt_956 It may be a bit late now if the back face of the bumper is sealed, but when I spoke to Richards chassis about putting them onto my new chassis, they said they drill through the face, weld the sides of the loops along the verticals and also into the face. It's difficult to explain but I can take a picture of my D44 bumper if you like?

Thanks for the quick reply Harry

Hi guys just a quick one here, does anyone know which form (from the DVLA) is the correct one to apply for a first registation of an ex-mod 90? It is direct release so currently has no reg plates etc. I'm off to Witham Specialist Vehicles to pick the vehicle up (on a trailer) on Tuesday and the lad there said I need a blue V55 form, however the post office didn't seem to know of one. Instead they gave me a blue V62 form called 'Application for a vehicle registration certificate'. I need to get the 90 on the road asap so any help is much appreciated Many thanks, Harry

Well thats good news! Thanks for all of your advice, I will post some pictures up once I've got it sprayed up Harry

I've got a 1989 90 that is being rebuilt at the moment. A friend has offered me his used galvanised steel steering guard (originally from Paddocks) which is in good nick, however it seems very heavy. http://www.paddockspares.com/pm748-def-90-fuel-tank-guard-galvanised-steel.html I've tried throughout the rebuild to keep the weight of the 90 as low as possible because it will be used everyday as well as for P&P/amateur challenges and just wondered if I would be better buying an alloy version? I've had a look at the guard and it seems very heavy, would an alloy version be that different? Also are there any advantages of one over the other? I used to have an alloy steering guard that would bend at the slightest impact but it was a cheap one and could have just been a poor design. Finally, if I was to hit the tank hard without a guard, is it likely to split or just bend? Thanks in advance, Harry

Thanks for all of the advice everyone, I have subsequently bought a moisture trap with a regulator built in help smooth airflow. EJP, I had a look in the destructions but there doesn't appear to be a duty cycle listed (unless i'm being stupid) The technical data provided is this: Rated voltage 230 V- / 50 Hz Rated power 1.8Kw / 2.5HP Insulation category IP 20 Speed 2850 rpm Air receiver volume 24 litre Max air flow 270 l/m / 9.5cfm Max pressure 8 bar / 120 PSI I think I will just get the paint ordered (moving from matt nato to satin nato) and have a go at spraying then see how the thing fares from there. Thanks guys, Harry

Is it the flexi part you are replacing? Llama 4x4 make braided hoses to suit land rovers in any size you want. I've not used them personally but have heard plenty of good things about them.

Thanks for all of the advice guys I've not tried spraying with it yet so don't know for certain, this was only what the air supply place told me. I think I will order the moisture trap and have a go, then decide from there. Thanks Landy-Novice, my compressor looks exactly the same but has a different brand name so it most likely is the same one. If I don't have any success with the current set-up then I will drop you a PM. EJParrot, I had a look through the destruction booklet but there doesn't seem to be any info on the number of times per hr it should be allowed to start, if I was to use it too much would it just cook the motor or become dangerous? On a slightly different note, will this moisture trap be suitable? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIR-FILTER-REGULATOR-MOISTURE-TRAP-4-COMPRESSOR-NEW-/370330998733?pt=UK_Air_Tools_and_Compressors&hash=item56397297cd#ht_845wt_1141 Many thanks, Harry

I have a little compressor that I bought from Lidl a while back, it's got a 2.5hp motor and puts out about 9.5cfm (i think) but it only has a 25l tank on it. I'm planning on respraying the 90 fairly soon, it will be my first attempt at a full car and will be in satin nato green. Whilst I would like to do a good job, it will be bent around trees on a regular basis so a professional finish isn't hugely important. I have bought the spray gun from a local air tools company and they said the motor on the compressor should be up to spec for the gun but the main problem I will have is the stop-start nature of painting due to the small tank size. I have been given a few pub size gas cans from work and wanted to know if it is possible to connect them to the compressor to increase the volume of air that I can store? They are not the CO2 version, but the nitrogen/CO2 mix version (different connections). I was thinking of connecting a couple of them to the outlet on the compressor, followed by a regulator and then a moisture trap. Is there any reason as to why I can't do this and has anyone done it before? Apologies if this is a stupid question, I have very little knowledge/experience of compressors/spraying! Thanks, Harry

Nick did you get any further with this? I'm currently looking at doing something similar to my 90 for the rear tub and footwells. Thanks, Harry

If all else fails do you have access to a welding kit? I needed to remove a rounded calliper bolt a while ago and was unable to get a set of bolt extractors in time so simply welded another bolt onto the rounded head and stuck a socket on that.

Do you have any kind of roll cage behind the truck cab?

I bought mine from MM4x4 on an exchange basis. They were very helpful and when it sprung a leak a year later (more abuse than faulty work) they sent me a new one before I had even taken the other one off the vehicle! I chose them originally because they were the cheapest option and had the quickest delivery times.